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Fuel Sending Unit Fix

and all this happens in a year or much less!

the dealer washer that I saw was silver in color. the new ones are copper "the cheap" ones. what to do?

fuel problem has gone into remission. even low on fuel truck has run perfectly with no cap...no bubbles in clear line I left on top. Parts store clear line. cap / tank will build up pressure just sitting overnight with no use since shut down on a cold day!!! I tighten cap next morning to keep thieves/ vandals out. I should install clear line piece before fuel mgr. and before lift pump. Then I'll know...
Some are lucky,..some are not,..I have not have had starter problems for years and i have 5 of them engines(knocking wood)
it prob all starts with not enough juice to the starter....bad batts/bad cable connections.
That is just plating over the copper,i don't think it matters if you got a copper one, just use new studs with it.
 
Some are lucky,..some are not,..I have not have had starter problems for years and i have 5 of them engines(knocking wood)
it prob all starts with not enough juice to the starter....bad batts/bad cable connections.
That is just plating over the copper,i don't think it matters if you got a copper one, just use new studs with it.

I got the new studs or by slight of hand I never saw the studs. He seemed to take it out of a new box. The cover which had better location of the terminals I was pleased about cause my new cables didn't have the identical connector for safety. It wouldn't start today until I re-hooked up the remote starter switch, which is dangerous with that hot line, and tooted it 5 or 6 times along with the ignition key attempts and it started. It wouldn't start with a screwdriver at the solenoid which is bad. One little bubble in the fuel clear hose but no trouble today. This is a saga I'm sorry.
 
many times the crud on a sock will fall away while the truck is not running and keeping it sucked up to the sock. Just getting in and out of a vehicle will often create enough movement to swish whatever is clogging the sock away from it. Sometimes you can go for a long time - a year even - before the problem shows back up. This can make a plugging sock hard to properly diagnose. I had green oak leaves in a tank once. They were especially good at floating around. The truck would die. I would get in and out once or twice and the truck would run again. Dropped the tank and there were several oak leaves in there. We're pretty sure we know how they got in there. But it had been going on to long to punish anybody by then.
 
many times the crud on a sock will fall away while the truck is not running and keeping it sucked up to the sock. Just getting in and out of a vehicle will often create enough movement to swish whatever is clogging the sock away from it. Sometimes you can go for a long time - a year even - before the problem shows back up. This can make a plugging sock hard to properly diagnose. I had green oak leaves in a tank once. They were especially good at floating around. The truck would die. I would get in and out once or twice and the truck would run again. Dropped the tank and there were several oak leaves in there. We're pretty sure we know how they got in there. But it had been going on to long to punish anybody by then.

That's what I said! I figured after two hrs. down the road it starts to clog again after all the stuff fell off during the night. It makes sense. My local diesel guy says no. I think the running with the cap off is because it's pulling in through the bi-pass mostly causing extra vacume. I remember my old friends blowing into the tank hose feeling the stuff blow off the sock and sucking it out with a siphon hose, hard to do on these tanks...start a siphon. Like cleaning the bottom of of a fish tank. I agree it must create suction leaks where they want to leak most cause it needs to suck it in somewhere. He says no that it can't run with a clogged sock. He's a very nice guy...always talks to me but he said that it once took 3 weeks to find a suction leak. I'm sure that's reasonable but can you imagine the bill for that? Also I think it sucks at the return line in the tank making all those fittings suction leaks if they leak.
 
it's a part of the sock then. needs more gas in the tank cause it's on the top side only ? I'm having trouble syphoning the fuel out so I can drop the tank.


When I dropped my tank I disconnected the feed pump then connected it up to another battery so the feed pump would empty the tank but I cant remember if or what I did to collect the diesel in, it will come to me in time.
 
When I dropped my tank I disconnected the feed pump then connected it up to another battery so the feed pump would empty the tank but I cant remember if or what I did to collect the diesel in, it will come to me in time.

are you the guy with the clear plastic hose? I got a better one from O'Reilly's and left it on with the fuel cap off and the air in lines prob. has disappeared. Thanks! No clamps too. Solenoid contacts and brushes.h-mmmmm. When it won't crank and I put the +cable to the motor terminal I get a big spark and the motor doesn't turn. Brushes or another short to ground?? I can do that when the starter is off the car and it turns. Maybe the battery needs to be disconnected with a separate pos. jumper cable to the motor term stud...easy to touch the housing around it I think. What I mean is that it's an intermittent short to ground orit's a bad ground that likes to be hit with a hammer or jolted with more amps.
 
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