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Fuel problem

I cut the metal line in the frame rail (larger one from the fuel tank) before it gets to the LP. the inline fuel filter came with to pieces of hose and clamps which I used to install the filter. Wix part number 33002 which is a 5/16" inline filter. iirc the steel line is 5/16" measure yours first. if it's 3/8" then you will want the 33003 filter.

it's not made to catch water, only larger particles of dirt and junk that would destroy a LP. the main filter in your FFM is to keep the finer crap out of the IP.

if you go this route, get two filters and keep one in the glove box for spare. when it clogs it will give no warning and cause a no power issue starving the IP of fuel.

1717102956268.png
 
dbrannon79 said:
I cut the metal line in the frame rail (larger one from the fuel tank) before it gets to the LP. the inline fuel filter came with to pieces of hose and clamps which I used to install the filter. Wix part number 33002 which is a 5/16" inline filter. iirc the steel line is 5/16" measure yours first. if it's 3/8" then you will want the 33003 filter.

it's not made to catch water, only larger particles of dirt and junk that would destroy a LP. the main filter in your FFM is to keep the finer crap out of the IP.

if you go this route, get two filters and keep one in the glove box for spare. when it clogs it will give no warning and cause a no power issue starving the IP of fuel.

View attachment 87940
Click to expand...
Thank you
 
Mark towery said:
I have a 2000 6.5 turbo k3500
It accelerates good but when I start easing out of I try it cuts out. And after I driver it and let it set for a few minutes it has a hard time starting. I have changed ops, pmd,fuel filter and cleaned sock in fuel tank. My lift pump turns on and has 4 pounds of pressure
Click to expand...
Update. I put a new gauge on and still only have 6#. And as soon as lp shuts off it goes to zero. I will do everyone suggested in the morning. But is that normal?
 
Check the pressure again with it idling. let us know if you find air when you install the clear hose too. something I have done in the past you might consider. connect that gauge to a hose long enough to use a wire tie and place it on the windshield wiper so you can watch the gauge going down the road.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Check the pressure again with it idling. let us know if you find air when you install the clear hose too. something I have done in the past you might consider. connect that gauge to a hose long enough to use a wire tie and place it on the windshield wiper so you can watch the gauge going down the road.
Click to expand...
Reading it under load is far more critical than idle.
I have seen many pumps holding 6,7,even 8 psi at idle but when accelerating hard going on a freeway ramp fall into vacuum. The only good information reading at idle imo is if it meets the MINIMUM 8 psi Stanandyne says.

I understand being so broke the rig you live in doesn’t have enough fuel to make it to the gas station. On one occasion I had to find bailing wire on the side of the road because I couldn’t afford buying some to patch my rig together. So people have to adjust fixing something the right way to just make it run status at times. But the important part is that they know when something is not operating the way the engineer intended. And they say under no circumstances should pressure be below 8psi on the ds4. This is why GM had to eat all the warranty ds4 ip that failed through the years but Stanandyne ate the db2 failures. Because the LP met requirements of the db2 but not the ds4. Ya got a 6psi reading. If you’re broke, it ought to get ya by. If you’re not broke, replace the inadequate part -imo.
 
Will L. said:
Reading it under load is far more critical than idle.
Click to expand...

These engine have a governor. The IP returns an insane amount of fuel to the tank. So you can get a very good idea of what the LP pressure is just by snapping the throttle WOT and leaving it at max RPM a few seconds to get a reading. Better to do it under load, yes. But convenience and you only risk cracking the old flexplate blowing the engine if the governor is out to lunch etc...

SNAP emissions testing does the above. With classic plates this test no longer should apply here to 6.2/6.5 IDI's.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Check the pressure again with it idling. let us know if you find air when you install the clear hose too. something I have done in the past you might consider. connect that gauge to a hose long enough to use a wire tie and place it on the windshield wiper so you can watch the gauge going down the road.
Click to expand...
Fuel pressure is 8# and with truck running it’s about 6
 
dbrannon79 said:
I cut the metal line in the frame rail (larger one from the fuel tank) before it gets to the LP. the inline fuel filter came with to pieces of hose and clamps which I used to install the filter. Wix part number 33002 which is a 5/16" inline filter. iirc the steel line is 5/16" measure yours first. if it's 3/8" then you will want the 33003 filter.

it's not made to catch water, only larger particles of dirt and junk that would destroy a LP. the main filter in your FFM is to keep the finer crap out of the IP.

if you go this route, get two filters and keep one in the glove box for spare. when it clogs it will give no warning and cause a no power issue starving the IP of fuel.

View attachment 87940
Click to expand...
If I ever need to drop the tank on my 96 gmc I’ll definitely go the route you did with the wix filter.My sending unit still has the sock on the end of it.It was a brand new unit I installed in 2014.Both of my trucks still have the sock in the tank but functions okay so far.
 
Is the 8# fuel pressure with the new Carter? If so, there are Carters and then there’s Carters. The one in your picture didn’t look like the one marketed by Leroy Diesel. Those are a higher price but, he sells them in kit form designed for easier installation to include the correct power connector.

What was the advertised delivery for the model of Carter pump you purchased?

FWIW, for a long time it was thought that Stanadyne was recommending only 8psi max on the DS4’s but, that’s old and incorrect data.

Earlier in this thread (and on another thread) the subject of powering the lift pump from the test spade behind the Under Hood Fuse Box was raised. Not sure if you got the answer as to where it was so here’s what we’re talking about. It wasn’t featured on every model year so ‘your results may vary.’

IMG_0169.jpeg

IMG_0170.jpeg

Power up the LP by connecting a jumper wire from Aux Power connector A or B on the fuse box.
IMG_0171.jpeg

Of course this only works if the after market LP is powered using the factory harness.
 
Paveltolz said:
Is the 8# fuel pressure with the new Carter? If so, there are Carters and then there’s Carters. The one in your picture didn’t look like the one marketed by Leroy Diesel. Those are a higher price but, he sells them in kit form designed for easier installation to include the correct power connector.

What was the advertised delivery for the model of Carter pump you purchased?

FWIW, for a long time it was thought that Stanadyne was recommending only 8psi max on the DS4’s but, that’s old and incorrect data.

Earlier in this thread (and on another thread) the subject of powering the lift pump from the test spade behind the Under Hood Fuse Box was raised. Not sure if you got the answer as to where it was so here’s what we’re talking about. It wasn’t featured on every model year so ‘your results may vary.’

View attachment 87982

View attachment 87981

Power up the LP by connecting a jumper wire from Aux Power connector A or B on the fuse box.
View attachment 87980

Of course this only works if the after market LP is powered using the factory harness.
Click to expand...
No I took that pos off and put another one on. And I have that connection but nothing happens when I put power to it
 
To be clear on what you’ve done…
What LP are you using?
Did you install the Wix Pre-Filter?
If you’re getting 6psi running and 8psi at key on, then the Jumper Wire not powering the pump is a separate issue to shelve for now (chase that squirrel later) but, it begs the question jrsovie asked, are you using the factory harness to power the lift pump?

We gotta know these answers since we aren’t there. Helps the members ‘see’ what’s what and not run you in more circles.
Hang in there amigo.
 
Mark towery said:
Yes sir they are.
Click to expand...
I am confused as to why supplying power to that jumper wire didn't make your lift pump run.

Did you crack the T valve or anything while you were supplying power to the jumper wire?

If you jump the lift pump relay. Does the lift pump run?

Do you see any wiring that doesn't look factory?
 
dbrannon79 said:
I cut the metal line in the frame rail (larger one from the fuel tank) before it gets to the LP. the inline fuel filter came with to pieces of hose and clamps which I used to install the filter. Wix part number 33002 which is a 5/16" inline filter. iirc the steel line is 5/16" measure yours first. if it's 3/8" then you will want the 33003 filter.

it's not made to catch water, only larger particles of dirt and junk that would destroy a LP. the main filter in your FFM is to keep the finer crap out of the IP.

if you go this route, get two filters and keep one in the glove box for spare. when it clogs it will give no warning and cause a no power issue starving the IP of fuel.

View attachment 87940
Click to expand...
I use the Napa Gold 3972 or Wix 33972 50 micron, 5/16 in and out for a prefilter.

Just realized earlier that I forgot to install one ahead of the lift pump on the backhoe..

Does anyone know a good source?

I want at least 2. More like 3 would be better
 
Loaded up the buckets of used oil and hauled them out to Brush Truck Repair.
While there I took a peek inside a scrapper 1954 Oldsmobioe 98. When in HS I had a 1955 98 and peeking into this one brought back a lot of memories.
While out there I spotted his Toro, 72 I think. Then seen this one. The other one is a gas engine just like the one the school owns.
This one seems to be a parts unit, maybe ? 🤷
But, it is a three cylinder diesel.
Darn, have to do a bunch of cropping for them to load to the page.
IMG_0081.jpeg
IMG_0082.jpeg
IMG_0083.jpeg
 
4 psi - not enough and why it cuts out. You are also killing the IP because there is not enough pressure for immersion lubrication.

Will L said how 8 psi is not enough because on acceleration it drops may be into vacuum

Nothing wrong with the IP yet, but get a real lift pump. That canister type barely put out 6 to 8 and die fast as to pressure even thought they still run.

I keep 15 to 18 psi regulated at the IP, and on hard acceleration it might drop to 10 with an old partially clogged filter

I use the Sure Cure Lift Pump Solution which is regulated

I am not going to speak to the wiring

Get a real lift pump capable of 15 psi and watch your problems go away.

See my posts at https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/down-on-power.52050/post-679517
 
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