Fuel problem

[Mark towery]

I have a 2000 6.5 turbo k3500
It accelerates good but when I start easing out of I try it cuts out. And after I driver it and let it set for a few minutes it has a hard time starting. I have changed ops, pmd,fuel filter and cleaned sock in fuel tank. My lift pump turns on and has 4 pounds of pressure

 

[dbrannon79]

Welcome to the forum @Mark towery 4 psi fuel pressure sounds a little on the weak side. were are you reading the pressure from? get you a clear hose installed on the IP return and look for air bubbles also.

 

[Mark towery]

Welcome to the forum @Mark towery 4 psi fuel pressure sounds a little on the weak side. were are you reading the pressure from? get you a clear hose installed on the IP return and look for air bubbles also.

 

[Mark towery]

From the T valve. And lp comes on when first turn key on but it doesn’t when you release the pressure from T valve

 

[dbrannon79]

From the T valve. And lp comes on when first turn key on but it doesn’t when you release the pressure from T valve

The LP will cycle by the PCM with the key on but for only a couple of seconds. the only other time is when cranking or running which is controlled by the OPS.

look in front of your IP for a 1/4" hose about 6" long in an upside down "U" shape. it goes from the top cover of the IP to a steel line above the timing cover. replace this hose with a clear hose from the hardware store. the clear hose does not need to be fuel rated but clear so you can see if you are getting any air in the IP when running.

on checking the fuel pressure. you need to connect as close to the IP inlet as possible, but you should get a decent reading at the tee valve. at idle you should see somewhere around 8 - 14 psi. the pressure will fall under engine load, but should never go into a vacuum state. this is where you will get air sucked in to the lines. this usually happens between the LP and the tank.

Since you are only seeing 4 psi, I am suspecting the LP could be weak and when you put the engine under load your fuel pressure goes into a vacuum state and begins to suck air from a loose fitting or crack in a hose/line behind the LP going back to the tank. two potential common issues

is your LP stock or aftermarket? how long has it been installed?

 

[Mark towery]

The LP will cycle by the PCM with the key on but for only a couple of seconds. the only other time is when cranking or running which is controlled by the OPS.

look in front of your IP for a 1/4" hose about 6" long in an upside down "U" shape. it goes from the top cover of the IP to a steel line above the timing cover. replace this hose with a clear hose from the hardware store. the clear hose does not need to be fuel rated but clear so you can see if you are getting any air in the IP when running.

on checking the fuel pressure. you need to connect as close to the IP inlet as possible, but you should get a decent reading at the tee valve. at idle you should see somewhere around 8 - 14 psi. the pressure will fall under engine load, but should never go into a vacuum state. this is where you will get air sucked in to the lines. this usually happens between the LP and the tank.

Since you are only seeing 4 psi, I am suspecting the LP could be weak and when you put the engine under load your fuel pressure goes into a vacuum state and begins to suck air from a loose fitting or crack in a hose/line behind the LP going back to the tank. two potential common issues

is your LP stock or aftermarket? how long has it been installed?

I have a new lp coming this week so I will try your recommendation. Thank you

 

[dbrannon79]

May I ask which LP did you order? if going with AC Delco, the EP-158 would be the best for a stock setup. it still barley will keep up with the demand of these engines though. Lots of guys here recommend the Raptor and Air dog lift pumps. it's a buy once and cry once kinda thing.

I'm sure others will chime in soon for some help.

 

[Mark towery]

May I ask which LP did you order? if going with AC Delco, the EP-158 would be the best for a stock setup. it still barley will keep up with the demand of these engines though. Lots of guys here recommend the Raptor and Air dog lift pumps. it's a buy once and cry once kinda thing.

I'm sure others will chime in soon for some help.

I bought a Carter. It was recommended to me.

 

[Mark towery]

I bought a Carter. It was recommended to me.

This doesn’t sound like a ip thing to you though?

 

[dbrannon79]

Keep us posted while your waiting for it to arrive, be sure to check for air intrusion with the clear hose. this type of issue normally doesn't show up until the LP gets weak or stops working all together.

 

[dbrannon79]

This doesn’t sound like a ip thing to you though?

I doubt there is an issue with the IP. though if you still have the PMD mounted on the side of the IP and not relocated away from the heat. a failing PMD would be my next thing to look at.

if you haven't already, do your self a favor and get a relocation kit and a new PMD + new resistor. keep the old PMD as a spare but mount the new one to a heat sink up in the hole in the front bumper for a supply of fresh outside air. then when it dies and leaves you stranded out in the middle of the boonies. just simply switch the connectors back to the spare PMD to get you home!!

As you learn your way around the 6.5, you will quickly learn to keep a pile of spare parts in the tool box. things like a PMD, LP, belt, alternator, and fuel filter.

 

[Mark towery]

I doubt there is an issue with the IP. though if you still have the PMD mounted on the side of the IP and not relocated away from the heat. a failing PMD would be my next thing to look at.

if you haven't already, do your self a favor and get a relocation kit and a new PMD + new resistor. keep the old PMD as a spare but mount the new one to a heat sink up in the hole in the front bumper for a supply of fresh outside air. then when it dies and leaves you stranded out in the middle of the boonies. just simply switch the connectors back to the spare PMD to get you home!!

As you learn your way around the 6.5, you will quickly learn to keep a pile of spare parts in the tool box. things like a PMD, LP, belt, alternator, and fuel filter.

I did relocate the pmd and there is an extra one in the glove box. Just put a new one on Friday.

 

[jrsavoie]

I bought a Carter. It was recommended to me.

Get set up to check pressure at the IP.

Check the Carter right away. If it isn't keeping up. Return it.

I always install a toggle switch on the firewall, by the under hood fuse box, to run the lift pump.

Not sure on a 2000 but most 1996 and newer have a spade connection hanging out of a loom below and between the under hood fuse box and the firewall. When powered, the lift pump runs.
I use a 10 amp inline fuse, safety toggle switch, 5/16 eyelet, and what I call a spade connector. - 1/4" flat.
Other people call what I call fork connector, a spade connector.
I don't know what they call, what I call a spade connector - I've seen them called quick disconnects.

If anyone can tell me the correct terminology, please feel free

 

[Mark towery]

What is the purpose of doing this?

 

[WarWagon]

What is the purpose of doing this?

Be able to purge air when changing the fuel filter. Override the fail prone OPS. Get fuel flowing to a worn IP to help cool it off so it will start...

I suggest:

Check for codes.

X2 on the clear return line.

You 'cleaned' the tank sock, why?

Did you replace it with aftermarket gasoline engine krap sold for a diesel that lacks the bypass valve by chance? Remove the sock and run a external prefilter for the lift pump: it's faster then dropping the tank for a clogged sock.

 

[Mark towery]

I did not replace the sock. What would you recommend as far as pre filter?

 

[dbrannon79]

I eliminated the sock in my tank and went with a simple inline clear fuel filter just in front of the tank before it went into the LP. the reason I chose a clear one was so I could crawl down there and looksee and I did not feel like engineering a spin-on mounting place. honestly a spin-on water separator filter with a clear bowl is best so long as you keep it out of arms way from getting hit while on the road.

 

[jrsavoie]

I eliminated the sock in my tank and went with a simple inline clear fuel filter just in front of the tank before it went into the LP. the reason I chose a clear one was so I could crawl down there and looksee and I did not feel like engineering a spin-on mounting place. honestly a spin-on water separator filter with a clear bowl is best so long as you keep it out of arms way from getting hit while on the road.

On a Toro, I did similar with a 50 micron inline filter ahead of the lift pump

 

[JMJNet]

Did you put the diesel sock? The diesel sock should be good but sometimes people replace it with gasser sock which is problematic.
A new Fuel Pick up kit comes only with gasser sock which needs to be replaced.

As for the LP, which Carter pump model did you buy?
Carter is just a brand.

 

[Mark towery]

I eliminated the sock in my tank and went with a simple inline clear fuel filter just in front of the tank before it went into the LP. the reason I chose a clear one was so I could crawl down there and looksee and I did not feel like engineering a spin-on mounting place. honestly a spin-on water separator filter with a clear bowl is best so long as you keep it out of arms way from getting hit while on the road.

How did you attach it and what kind is it

Did you put the diesel sock? The diesel sock should be good but sometimes people replace it with gasser sock which is problematic.
A new Fuel Pick up kit comes only with gasser sock which needs to be replaced.

As for the LP, which Carter pump model did you buy?
Carter is just a brand.

i just cleaned it up and this is the pump