• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Fuel mileage

Stock on that. Only engine related mods are a walbro lift pump and no exhaust after the downpipe (meth head hacked up the exhaust, haven't replaced it yet)
That has to be freaking LOUD in the cab if the exhaust is hacked off just past the down pipe! I'm running the Heartthrob 3" down and 4" front pipe without a muffler and a 4" 45° elbow canted down towards the ground in front of the front spring hanger. While fairly quiet in the front and back seats, there is a VERY noticable drone in the third seat and cargo area of my Burb. How's your hearing/sanity after a 500 mile trip in that thing?
 
The advancement on the timing gained 1 MPG. It now is right at 18.
the timing is set at -1.43, IIRC, and I am wondering if that would contribute to higher operating temps on the engine ?
I gotta cool this thing down. That 217 degrees just scared the crap outta Me. Wifey even complained about the smell. LOLOLOL
 
I want to wire in a sensor at 210 that sets audible and flashing light alarm. also want low coolant, low oil and low oil pressure tied in to that as well. At 210 you better be watching the gauge as much as the road and at 220 pull over.

Yes, as mentioned above hitting that temp shortened the life on your rings. It isn't noticeable immediately, It's like shooting a bullet out of a pistol you just picked up on the battle field. How many shots you have left is a good question to which only time will tell.
 
That's easy enough to do, @Will L. Just use a variable temperature thermal cooling fan switch adjusted to 210° in the passenger head rear temp sender port and connect it to a piezoelectric buzzer and a 12V light. Use a GMT400 coolant reservoir for the low coolant sensing, an on-off idiot light oil pressure switch teed into the OPS feed and cannibalize the low oil level sensor system off any newer vehicle and adapt it.

Since they're all Normally Open switches, you won't have one circuit back feeding into the others if one closes, so they can all share the same warning buzzer/light with no problem. Alert goes off, quick scan of gauges, disaster averted!
 
Last edited:
You might want dedicated Low Coolant and Low Oil Level warning lights, since no instrument panel gauges would indicate those conditions.
 
I am planning on using sensors from other rigs, I just haven't picked them out yet hoping to find which have better lifespan than others.
 
Back
Top