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Fuel Leak

Rodd said:
Thanks for the link. One question. When using the volt meter do I do it with the key on or do I need someone to crank it?
Click to expand...

Looks like it is on a test bench. So I would say cranking with a understanding it's not on the bench and no where near the 600 RPM. I wouldn't waste the starter.

As you have "fuel" I suggest the trons are ok. Not enough advance to fire or not enough PSI for several possible defective pump reasons listed.
 
I pulled the reman pump and cleaned up my old pump getting ready to swap the stepper motor or at least the o ring from the reman to my old one. Just below the stepper motor itself is a metal plate with 4 screws. That is where the leak looked like it was coming from but after looking at the bottom I noticed 2 round hex/allen wrench screws that could possibly be the source of the leak. There is also a bolt that also could be the source of the leak. My question is which of the fittings should I replace or not replace? Take a look at the video to see what I'm talking about.
 
Put it on a bench, use fuel can to an lp, and feed it fuel. Have the time 1/4” return line back to the fuel tank. If it doesn’t leak, you can bolt on the gear and turn by hand to rotate it and try to recreate the leak.

Imo if you aren’t having it completely rebuilt, then go that way. Other than that, only open up what you have to.
 
Downloaded the Stanadyne Operations Manual to see if it might be of some help to you. Too big to post so, try this link instead.
http://www.stanadyne.com/dealerportal/ssi/english/Product Manual/99646.pdf
Page 22 or 2.7 has the views of the transfer pump locking screw ("bolt", no seal under that) and 1/4 hex bit cam pin hole plug (seal under that).
The advance plate removal also starts on page 22 and continue on to the next one. Assembly is in another section but, you're probably already rolling your eyes at my 'help' here.
Exploded view with torque values is on page 59.

Have fun.

My hat is off to the guys who engineer these things. There's a whole lot more going on inside this pump than I realized.
 
Last edited:
Paveltolz said:
Downloaded the Stanadyne Operations Manual to see if it might be of some help to you. Too big to post so, try this link instead.
http://www.stanadyne.com/dealerportal/ssi/english/Product Manual/99646.pdf
Page 22 or 2.7 has the views of the transfer pump locking screw ("bolt", no seal under that) and 1/4 hex bit cam pin hole plug (seal under that).
The advance plate removal also starts on page 22 and continue on to the next one. Assembly is in another section but, you're probably already rolling your eyes at my 'help' here.
Exploded view with torque values is on page 59.

Have fun.

My hat is off to the guys who engineer these things. There's a whole lot more going on inside this pump than I realized.
Click to expand...
Thanks!
 
Got the new pump on thursday and am installing today. I know that the injector lines are bent a certain way to go back into their correct locations. I bent a couple of them out of the way to make the take out and reinstallation easier. I noticed that 2 of the connectors can connect into the same spots on the IP right next to each other. I went to the technical library and it isn't working. Can anyone tell me or have the link to one of the threads that contain the injector/line location on the IP?
 
Never mind I found it. I will put it here just incase someone finds this thread and needs it here it is. There are 2 nozzles on top/bottom and left/right for a total of 8. The firing order starts at the top driver side nozzle and rotates toward the passenger side. The order for the injector lines connecting to the IP is 8 - 7 - 2 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 1
 
I finally got her running with Wyatt's help. Had it towed to his shop and he found the problem. I bumped the starter to turn the cam so I could get the bolts out/in through the oil fill tube hole. It sheared off the key on the lower gear. I have done that on 3 IP swaps and never had a problem till now. I was going to have him set the timing but he was leaving on vacation so I am doing it. Just trying to remember everything since it has been about 12 years since my last opportunity to set timing. The TDCO reads -2.46. I want it in the -1.50 - -1.93. Which way to I need to turn the pump toward the passenger or driver side?
 
I took a sharpie and marked the pump and cam housing to see how much the pump moved. I was able to move the pump about 1/16 maybe a bit more. I got the truck up to 180 degrees, cleared the codes, and used my AutoEnginuity to relearn TDCO and Timing. It didn't work. Also tried KOKO and nothing. I may have done the KOKO wrong. I couldn't find any detailed instructions other than key on pedal to the floor for 45 seconds and then key off 30 seconds. Not sure if I am supposed to push the pedal to the floor before key on or if I am supposed to keep it on the floor after I key off. I also keep getting a code that the offset is off which is understandable but the other code I am getting is a U1000 which is a communication error with the PCM. The PCM I am using has a KOJO tune. Wondering if I should put in the stock and see what happens.
 
I hooked up the stock ECM and it runs and drives smooth. I still have the U1000 code which says class 2 data link failure. I am still unable to set time or TDCO. The stock ECM has TDCO as -.18 and desired timing at 10.5. actual timing fluctuates between 13.3 and 14.5 at idle. I tried koko but it didn't work either. I may be doing it wrong. Anyone know the koko procedure? Is there a problem driving it without setting the tdco and timing? Like I said it is running normal with the stock ECM.
 
This sounds like a job for @THEFERMANATOR to help you sort through. To me, the data link issue with both ECMs sounds more like an issue with the ADLC/harness - like an open wire or bad ground - to ECM interface.
 
Husker6.5 said:
This sounds like a job for @THEFERMANATOR to help you sort through. To me, the data link issue with both ECMs sounds more like an issue with the ADLC/harness - like an open wire or bad ground - to ECM interface.
Click to expand...

Good thought. There were 4 or 5 grounds connected to the intake studs and replaced a couple since the connectors were broke. Possibly one of those are going to the ADLC harness. I will have to look at them closely.
 
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