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FTP 88-94 Flash to Pass DIY or I'll sell a kit.

No pic's/vid sorry. A new MFS is like $140ish so the junk yard looks good!

Most all of the vehicles you mention should work. High beams (if I remember) do come on anytime the lever is pulled back.

The switch/part you need is a white square piece, it makes phisical contact with the lever it has the extra contacts that the trucks did not have. Slide it in and put it back together, done. Sounds simple, but its a pain in the assets.
 
Any special tools or tricks to accessing the switch or assembly/disassembly? Any cautions I should know about like the steering wheel air bag in the Burb when I do this?
 
Pretty striaght forward. You'll see what a pain it is when tring to remove the connector on the MFS. Take pictures and post back here what you do.
 
Ok, got a more important question for you, Leroy. I want to change my DRL's around on my '98 Burb so I can run HID low beams controlled by the headlight dash switch and separate Hi Intensity LEDs as my new DRL's, while retaining the original function of the DRL circuit in controlling the DRL on-off function in conjunction with the headlights. I have the factory service manual and wiring diagrams for the DRL/headlight circuit. I'm pretty sure how the circuit works with the DRL relay through the DRL control board with the low beam circuit, but I need some expert advice on what to disconnect, reconnect and bypass to make it all work right using the factory wire color codes and terminal numbers/letters and connector codes. I DON'T want to experiment and wind up burning out the DRL control board or worse. I think I need to pull the DRL relay, direct wire the tan from the relay to the tan (low beam hot) from the low/hi beam switch, then jumper the rest of the wires from the relay socket to the relay and use a new wire from where the tan was on the relay to run to the LED DRL's. I think, because if I read the schematic right, there's a voltage dropping resistor in the relay to the low beams in DRL mode (to save the filaments) that wouldn't be good on the LEDS, so do I want/need to use a standard 30/40 amp relay instead, or will it matter?

THEN I'll tackle the FTP conversion on my MFS, which should stand for Mother F*ckin' Switch, as according to the service manual, I have to deactivate the SRS and pull the steering wheel to remove the MFS off the steering column in order to disassemble it and then put the switch part off the donor in it, reassemble, then put the steering column back together and reactivate the SRS..
 
I'll use the Tan (low beam) hot to trigger the relay for the HIDs, but I want the Tan at the low beams to run off of the dash headlight switch when in the headlight position only, NOT off of the DRL circuit where there's power to the Tan at the Low beam anytime the ignition is ON and the headlight dash switch is not ON. I want to divorce that DRL power from the Tan low beam wire that runs to the headlight and instead run that DRL power circuit to a Hi-intensity LED DRL. That way I would now have dedicated DRLs (LED) without powering up my HIDs every time I turn the ignition ON and the LED DRL's would turn off when I turned ON the headlights.
 
OK that makes sence. Without having done it and not being there Im not sure what to tell you. I bet it has been done plenty of times though. Try Google?
 
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