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FTB 2.0 Stainless. Now available at Walking J

Veg_Out said:
I can do it with a T for the pressure guage, but suggest you place the pressure sender at the drain side anyway. Keeps it tucked out of sight.
Click to expand...

It is logical to put it on the IP side, as then you can monitor filter health, because it will be post filter, if pressure drops over time might need filter change, and in general its like 20% lower pressure on the IP side.

In the picture you dont show the upper IP fitting, but I assume its in the kit.
 
buddy said:
It is logical to put it on the IP side, as then you can monitor filter health, because it will be post filter, if pressure drops over time might need filter change, and in general its like 20% lower pressure on the IP side.

In the picture you dont show the upper IP fitting, but I assume its in the kit.
Click to expand...

Yep, same fitting I've had made for my previous kits. Thanks.
 
I'm a proponent of monitoring @ outlet of the filter mgr or just prior to IP inlet also; as that will give indication of what IP is getting, also advance warning something is amiss with the fuel supply in general, be it filter/s if equipped with pre filter, lift pump, or tank sock
 
Turbine Doc said:
I'm a proponent of monitoring @ outlet of the filter mgr or just prior to IP inlet also; as that will give indication of what IP is getting, also advance warning something is amiss with the fuel supply in general, be it filter/s if equipped with pre filter, lift pump, or tank sock
Click to expand...

So, would you say a gauge post FM and Post prefilter would give you adequate monitoring and ability to identify problems?
 
Thats where I installed mine. Seemed to be the most logical place at the time of the install. This way i know exactally what pressure the IP is getting.
 
I would like to know before I would order this kit If there would be room for a JIC T fitting on the front of the manifold before the IP?

...and would I be able to do this (add a T) with the Manifold still on?

I am eventually going to need to read the Fuel Pressure once I get my Gauges.
 
You'd want to add the T to just after the fuel manager, down in the valley. If you elect to do that, I could build one for you. Might cost another $7 or $10 for the additional fitting.

I think you're going to need to remove the manifold no matter what. It's only another 10 minutes each way.
 
Yes there is room for a T before the IP after the manifold, I used to have one there. Although it was and 1/8" NPT T with barbs out each port
 
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