frost plugs and block heater

[chevyCowboy]

So guys i took all my frost plugs out. kind of a PITA i punch holes threw 4 of them and spent 30min trying to find the pieces that punched out:mad2: found them all tho had to flush the block found 2 on the ground and then still ended up fishing 2 of them out of the coolant galleys with a magnet. i figured they would casue a few problems if they got to the water pump of radiator.
my question is when installing the new frost plugs is there any type of selant that goes around them??
Also is there any way to bench test a block heater i know the one out of my old motor worked and i have a second one out of one of the blocks i bought. i want to test this one as it doesnt make sence to put it in as a spare if it dont work

 

[6.2 turbo]

I use indian head shelac on freeze out plugs,don't run the block heater dry for very long it will probably burn up,just plug it in long enough to see if it gets hot.

 

[bk95td]

I'd use brass frost plugs.A thin coat or rtv should seal any pits in sealing surface. You can test the heater by submirsing the element in water and plugging in. The element must be kept under water or it will burn out in a few seconds.

 

[chevyCowboy]

the ones that came in the kit do not apper to be brass look more like aluminum

whats your favorite type of RTV there are so many to choices i normally just get the ultra black or blue. unless i get "the Right Stuff" for making gaskets

 

[bk95td]

I use ultra black.I just bought my first can of "The Right Stuff" to use on oil pan and valve covers. Most likely won't work after sitting opened for a few days as other aerosol rtvs that i've tried. Ultra black stores very well.

 

[chevyCowboy]

i didnt ever buy the areosol one i got the one that is in a caulking tube it kept ok. i just stuck a nail in the end.

 

[packratt]

If you follow the directions on the can the Right Stuff stores good when opened.

 

[CUCV]

As far as removing freeze-out plugs, I was taught to run a big self-tapping screw into and use a slide hammer/ dent puller to yank it out.
Great idea.
Unfortunately, I have yet to actually succeed using that method.
Usually winds up coming out with BIG screwdriver, BIG hammer and lot's of swearing.......

 

[bison]

I use a big scewdriver and knock one corner inside far enough to be able to to get underneath and pry it outwards and out with a pliers.
i coat the bore and the plug with permatex liquid gasket before install.

 

[Danish Farmer]

Suppose you gyes have the engine, or heads taken out, before working on the freeze plugs ? ?
Mine started leaking today from the back of the drivers side head. I can´t even get my hands or eyes down there between the fireplate insolation and the exhaust manifold. Hard to se where its from, but I guess freeze plug or a cover plate that is mentioned some where else in this forum.
Probably need to take the head off to ever find out ?
---and like every time I take something on that truck apart. -Many other things ends up being repaired or enhanced at the same time. :smash:

 

[NVW]

On the very back of the head there will be a frost plug that matches the cross over where it bolts to the front of the head. There is also a plate held down with 2 bolts on the top back of the head. One of those is your leak, if it's the frost plug the head will likely need to come off.

Could also be a head gasket. No bubbling in the coolant?

 

[racedaymechanic]

So guys i took all my frost plugs out. kind of a PITA i punch holes threw 4 of them and spent 30min trying to find the pieces that punched out:mad2: found them all tho had to flush the block found 2 on the ground and then still ended up fishing 2 of them out of the coolant galleys with a magnet. i figured they would casue a few problems if they got to the water pump of radiator.
my question is when installing the new frost plugs is there any type of selant that goes around them??
Also is there any way to bench test a block heater i know the one out of my old motor worked and i have a second one out of one of the blocks i bought. i want to test this one as it doesnt make sence to put it in as a spare if it dont work

Use the Indian head with Brass Soft plugs, they are not really frost plugs just holes they use to shake the sand out after the block is cast, The block will crack if allowed to freeze

 

[Woody35]

i have heard of people using locttite for frost plugs

 

[Danish Farmer]

NVW, your the best ;0)
The leak WAS from the plate with the two bolts. :smile5: -so this one ended up being a much smaller repair than i feared.
Now I also see why it came when sitting in the shop.... When unscrewing the nuts holding the GP Relay, one of the bolts apparently turned and it seems to be one of the bolts also holding this plate in place.
Thanks :smile5:

 

[restoguy]

The block will crack if allowed to freeze

Yes it will. And your brand new heater core will swell and split too. Makes for a really bad morning.

 

[NVW]

NVW, your the best ;0)
The leak WAS from the plate with the two bolts. :smile5: -so this one ended up being a much smaller repair than i feared.
Now I also see why it came when sitting in the shop.... When unscrewing the nuts holding the GP Relay, one of the bolts apparently turned and it seems to be one of the bolts also holding this plate in place.
Thanks :smile5:

You're welcome

Glad it was an easy fix, that doesn't happen often.

 

[NVW]

I said this wrong, the cross over matches the plate and the frost plug is where the water pump ports face.

Just wanted to clear that up.

On the very back of the head there will be a frost plug that matches the cross over where it bolts to the front of the head. There is also a plate held down with 2 bolts on the top back of the head. One of those is your leak, if it's the frost plug the head will likely need to come off.

Could also be a head gasket. No bubbling in the coolant?