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Front Hub unit bearings: What brand is the best quality?

GM Guy

GM Guy

Manual Trans. 2WD Enthusiast
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Location
NW Kansas and SC Idaho
Hey all,

I am thinking the bearings are getting a tick sloppy on the 95 K2500HD (ABS light on) and one has a broke off sensor on the 01 K3500.

So, I ask you guys, what brand of unit bearing is the best of the best? any difference in brand/ quality relationship between each companies offering for GMT400 and GMT800? (hypothetical example: SKF for GMT400 is not as good as Timken, but for GMT800 SKF is better than timken, etc)

I definitely want the best quality for the 95, as well as the 06 C3500, but I can go a little cheaper on the 01 K3500.

Any input appreciated, thanks!
 
More important to set the proper torque on the half shaft nut, not use an impact, and replace any seals in the spindle.

No luck with Masterpro or Precision - chain store Krap. Precision is made in some other country now. And I can't get more than 2 years out of the replacement new half shafts as the boots crack and spew grease everywhere. Going to let this set dry out some as I am tired of changing them.

SKF Timken... Whatever is left that is Made In The USA...
 
I know the GMT400 unit bearings can be pressed or pulled open & the bearings can be changed out. There is lots of debate about quality and some name brands could very well be CHICOM however these days that maybe is not an issue since they are making massive amounts of parts for global vehicle manufacturers... I favor Timken..
 
FellowTraveler said:
I know the GMT400 unit bearings can be pressed or pulled open & the bearings can be changed out. There is lots of debate about quality and some name brands could very well be CHICOM however these days that maybe is not an issue since they are making massive amounts of parts for global vehicle manufacturers... I favor Timken..
Click to expand...
The bearings can be changed out, but not the races. Teh race is actually part of the hub on them. I regreased mine back in 09 when I did my swap, and they've been good since. Guess I'm lucky as every hub bearing I've done has been with an impact.
 
Timken or SKF unit bearings for sure. I always shop around between Rock Auto, Amazon and others for the best price including shipping. The parts stores' markup on name-brand bearings are ridiculous.

I replaced 5 unit bearings on my old Bonneville. 1 of them was POS NAPA bottom shelf BS that I needed to replace ASAP, and I ended up going back twice under warranty due to the ABS sensors inside being junk. The third time I said f*ck it and replaced it with a Timken. A few mos later, the other side went out, replaced that with a Timken, and all was right with the world.
 
I used Kryptonite Timken bearings on my 01, 03, and 06. Forgot who sells that warranty plan but my 06 used it twice, hassle free replacement if you have your receipts.
 
Its the vendors lifetime warranty.

With timken if you have a failure they don't warranty until you send them your failed unit. With the vendors warranty they ship you a new bearing with return label for the failed unit, no questions asked as long as you have their receipt.
 
What is the center axle nut to be torqued to when reinstalling the new bearing?

Anti-seize compound (or grease) on the four bolts that hold it in from the back? Or just leave dry?
 
YES! Anti-seize compound on the four bolts that hold it in from the back IF you ever want to get them out again...

Buried in this thread...

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/how-to-k2500-front-rotor-disc-replacement-8-lug-4x4.19267/

The torque for the axle shaft to hub nut has been revised several times over the years. For an 8 lug 4x4, it's 177 lb/ft. About double that of the average 1/2" impact wrench. The nut, according to the manual, should NOT be reused (although I have on several necessary occasions). The hub on a 4x4 MUST be torqued before bearing the full vehicle weight. The nut supports the bearing. A 2wd can be torqued after the weight of the vehicle is on the bearing, as it is fully supported with or without the nut.

I use the 1/2" impact wrench to sock it down, install the wheel/tire, then lower the tire to the ground enough to prevent turning. Then, put the full torque on it.

If you replaced the hub, the hub to knuckle bolts are torqued to 133 lb/ft, the sensor mounting bolt is 13 ft/lb, and the caliper mounting bracket to knuckle is 221 ft/lb.
 
I also take a dremel and clean out the rust where the hub rides in the knuckle and then anti sieze that too. Makes the next hub job a breeze
 
WarWagon said:
YES! Anti-seize compound on the four bolts that hold it in from the back IF you ever want to get them out again...

Buried in this thread...

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/how-to-k2500-front-rotor-disc-replacement-8-lug-4x4.19267/

The torque for the axle shaft to hub nut has been revised several times over the years. For an 8 lug 4x4, it's 177 lb/ft. About double that of the average 1/2" impact wrench. The nut, according to the manual, should NOT be reused (although I have on several necessary occasions). The hub on a 4x4 MUST be torqued before bearing the full vehicle weight. The nut supports the bearing. A 2wd can be torqued after the weight of the vehicle is on the bearing, as it is fully supported with or without the nut.

I use the 1/2" impact wrench to sock it down, install the wheel/tire, then lower the tire to the ground enough to prevent turning. Then, put the full torque on it.

If you replaced the hub, the hub to knuckle bolts are torqued to 133 lb/ft, the sensor mounting bolt is 13 ft/lb, and the caliper mounting bracket to knuckle is 221 ft/lb.
Click to expand...

Not believing those torque specs for the bearing hub bolts or the caliper bolts. Way too high, like more than double.
 
I figured I would use grease or anti-seize on those four bolts, but wanted to be sure. I did that once on a W-Body car and lost a caliper. Turned out they needed Loctite, instead, however it's a different design. Originals on this were tight as tight, but the truck hasn't ever been in salt, so I can't imagine what this would have been like if it had. Not that I'm considering making it a salted truck, but I'm half considering taking the bolts out of the other side, just to put anti-seize on them.

Haven't seen the new Timken bearing yet, but I've seen some that have a sleeve of some sort on the portion that slides into the knuckle. It's something to prevent the corrosion, I suppose. I still put anti-seize on, though, just because.

Dealership said 165 ft. lbs. on that center axle nut. It is, indeed, 8 lug and 4wd - I wonder why the difference.

Thanks for the information, guys.
 
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