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Front end parts advice needed

Husker6.5 said:
Most suspension/steering parts have torque specs included with them in the box. I go with those instead of "the book" simply because "the book" is based off of factory OEM parts and what the factory torques to. Replacement parts (high quality brand name, not generic bargain cheapies) may use a better metalurgy or have a different thread count (fine vs. coarse) than OEM and thus require different torque specs than OEM. If you sources have different specs for the same part (ie: outer tie rod ends) that are close together like 35 and 40, I use the higher number. If there is a wide disparity like with your stabilizer links with 35 and 13 (what?) it could be due to a change in construction/materials. If the difference in specs is like between 75 and 90, I split the difference, then tighten until the first split in the castle nut aligns with the hole in the stud. (Note, I HAVE recently ran across replacement parts (daughter's Dakota) that don't use castle nuts but nylocs instead. Those I torqued to the spec provided (which wasn't OEM) no question asked.
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The AC Delco Professional Upper ball joint 45D0064 does not have a torque spec on the paper. It just says install to the proper torque specification
 
I have never had any problem pressing out lower ball joints (or uppers) in ANY vehicle I've ever owned. I use a C-clamp style joint press with the proper sized press and receiver cups to remove and install. For uppers where there's not enough clearance, I use a homemade reverse press that's jumboe 1/2" drive socket base fits over the lower ball joint and uses a Grade 8 1/2" bolt, nut and washer to press up against the upper ball joint stud and pop it out of the spindle. Then the C-clamp press on the lower is a piece of cake.
 
Husker6.5 said:
AC Delco? Then use the Factory spec out of the GM Service Manual for that vehicle.
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In one part of the service manual 3C28 Which I think is for a Suburban with 8 lug wheels - it says 94 ft lbs. On the specification page 3C39 it says 74 ft. lbs.

That is where my confusion comes from. I was going to call the dealership this morning, but it was close to noon when I thought of it. And right after when I called. I just thought - I should have called the next time zone west. I've done that before and even ordered parts and had them drop shipped.

I'm not sure how big a deal it would be to go with 94 ft lbs. Most people I know, don't even torque these.
 

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  • 3C28 page 96 4x4 upper ball joint control arm0001.pdf
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Husker6.5 said:
I have never had any problem pressing out lower ball joints (or uppers) in ANY vehicle I've ever owned. I use a C-clamp style joint press with the proper sized press and receiver cups to remove and install. For uppers where there's not enough clearance, I use a homemade reverse press that's jumboe 1/2" drive socket base fits over the lower ball joint and uses a Grade 8 1/2" bolt, nut and washer to press up against the upper ball joint stud and pop it out of the spindle. Then the C-clamp press on the lower is a piece of cake.
Click to expand...

dO YOU HAVE ANY PICTURES of your home made tool?
 
I shoulda woulda coulda bought the upper control arms with ball joint installed.

The upper control arm bushings looked good - I think they have been replaced before. I could not get them to wiggle when I was changing the ball joints.

Now the left bushings have movement and the right caliper, that we just changed, stuck. It came from Advanced Auto. Will they give my money back?

What brand of caliper is the best?

What brake flex line is the best? I saw this posted not so long ago, but I haven't found it yet.

I'm not in such a hurry this go round. I need to get parts ordered.

What should I get for the upper control arm bushings?

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...0-suburban-what-are-good-local-options.46919/

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...-and-94-99-dodge-2500-3500.44950/#post-513117
 
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jrsavoie said:
dO YOU HAVE ANY PICTURES of your home made tool?
Click to expand...
No pictures, I just use a 1/2" drive 1 3/8" shallow socket for the "base" that fits over the top of the lower ball joint. I use a Grade 8 1/2x4" bolt with a nut spun about half way down the bolt, then a regular 1/2" washer, a dab of grease and then a 1/2" fender washer. I slip that through from the drive end of the socket, then put the socket over the lower ball joint and screw the bolt out until the head is snug against the upper ball joint stud (which has had the cotter pin removed and the castle nut loosened 3-4 threads first). I then take an open end wrench and start tightening the nut down against the socket (the two washers with a dab of grease between them act as a thrust washer and the fender washer spreads the load out across the top of the socket) which presses the bolt against the upper stud and a turn or two and the upper ball joint pops out of the steering knuckle. Pickle fork and the bottom pops out of the steering knuckle. Remove the knuckle, then remove the upper ball joint from the upper control arm (drill rivets out/unbolt) and then press the lower out of the lower control arm with a C press.
 
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MrMarty51 said:
I had a set of MOOG setting on the seat of the truck, the shop that installed the upper C arms used the ones that came off.
I wish theyd have used the new MOOGs, they had grease zerks.
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I've never seen them with grease zerks. Didn't know that was an option

The ACDelco Caster / Camber bolts I got, ended up being plated - Made in China

If I wanted to take the time, I would send them back and hopefully get something NOT made in China
 
jrsavoie said:
I've never seen them with grease zerks. Didn't know that was an option

The ACDelco Caster / Camber bolts I got, ended up being plated - Made in China

If I wanted to take the time, I would send them back and hopefully get something NOT made in China
Click to expand...

That was first time I had seen zerks on them bolts too. My thoughts was, KOOL. no more squeaking pivots.
 
i ENDED up getting braided stainless brake lines from inlinetube.com

I've used their pre-bent stainless brake lines before and was happy with them.

I will post up on the flex hoses when I get them installed
 
jrsavoie said:
i ENDED up getting braided stainless brake lines from inlinetube.com

I've used their pre-bent stainless brake lines before and was happy with them.

I will post up on the flex hoses when I get them installed
Click to expand...

Just be certain that the stainless flex lines are adequately attached to the upper control arm so they don’t rub against the tire.
 
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