flushing cooling system

[matuva]

Well, I found several post about cooling system.
It appears GM forgot to put a simple tap on block which should have allow us to completely empty and clean the block.
Though, I may have to check close engine mounts, it seems i saw a plug somewhere.

I will have to flush completely a 1995 to get rid of the Dex-crap and replace it by green coolant.

I want to clean it as well as possible so that no Dex-crap could mix with the green.

This 1995 is a single stat mount.

What I'm willing to do is to :

• wait till the engine is cold or just warm;
• remove the T-stat;
• connect a garden hose at the upper rad hose;
• open wide tap and run/idle the engine till clear water comes out of T-stat housing;
• stop engine;
• pull the lower hose to flush the rad and part of the engine;
• put back T-stat and hoses and refill/bleed the system.

Do you think that should be considered as a good way of doing things ?

 

[Acesneights1]

When I did my Tahoe I actually did it while I was installing the Heath WP so I stuck the hose right in the ports on the block with the WP off but when I did my 2000 I just pulled the rad for cleaning anyway and did it then. If you use lifetime antifreeze instead of green it won't matter if there are trace amounts of dexcool. It can mix. That's what I used.

 

[Woody35]

all i did was cut into heater hose and installed a tee with threads on it to put garden hose. then i had it come out of the overflow tank. took about 15 bucketfuls to clear out system

 

[matuva]

Thanks guys.
Woody, I believe if I connect a T + a garden hose at the rad, where the hose coming from heater connects, that should be fine too ?

 

[Acesneights1]

If you want to be thourough pull the upper and lower hoses and the tstat.

 

[Woody35]

Thanks guys.
Woody, I believe if I connect a T + a garden hose at the rad, where the hose coming from heater connects, that should be fine too ?

sorry im not by my truck to check but if its the same size hose as a heater hose. if it is it should work

 

[matuva]

with engine off Kenny ? I would get enough pressure to clean the block ?

 

[Acesneights1]

It should if it's wide open . That's how I always did it.

 

[Edzzed]

all i did was cut into heater hose and installed a tee with threads on it to put garden hose. then i had it come out of the overflow tank. took about 15 bucketfuls to clear out system

I too did it that way. If I recall it is the hose going out of the engine and into the heater that is supposed to be teed. Ed

 

[Edzzed]

here is a link to the kit I bought. it also has directions on how to flush. http://www.prestone.com/products/print.php?fam=12&num=2&name=Prestone+R+Flush+N+Fill+Kit&regTM=1 Ed

 

[daustin]

GM did put block drain plugs in most of the 6.5 blocks, BUT they located them behind the engine mounts so they are near impossible to be usefull. lol
Don

 

[Woody35]

I too did it that way. If I recall it is the hose going out of the engine and into the heater that is supposed to be teed. Ed

yup on the passenger side of the engine

 

[treegump]

where did you take the coolant after you drained everything? Did you do it the farmer's way, or is there a local place you take it?

 

[Pruittx2]

If your worried about crap built up,, I'd use this: http://www.prestone.com/products/coolingSystemTreatments.php
Add liquid,, run system up to temp, let cool then dump and water flush, till clear water comes out upper Rad hose.

 

[Big T]

Well, I found several post about cooling system.
It appears GM forgot to put a simple tap on block which should have allow us to completely empty and clean the block.
Though, I may have to check close engine mounts, it seems i saw a plug somewhere.

I will have to flush completely a 1995 to get rid of the Dex-crap and replace it by green coolant.

I want to clean it as well as possible so that no Dex-crap could mix with the green.

This 1995 is a single stat mount.

What I'm willing to do is to :

• wait till the engine is cold or just warm;
• remove the T-stat;
• connect a garden hose at the upper rad hose;
• open wide tap and run/idle the engine till clear water comes out of T-stat housing;
• stop engine;
• pull the lower hose to flush the rad and part of the engine;
• put back T-stat and hoses and refill/bleed the system.

Do you think that should be considered as a good way of doing things ?

What's the problem with the DEX Crap? I almost bought some the last go around.

 

[Pruittx2]

The "recommended" service intervals of Dex-cool coolant is 5 years 100K miles and in some cases 150K miles. These extended service intervals have not proven to be any thing but trouble for the consumer. In some cars, the coolant tends to turn to a thick, gooey, sticky, muddy, gritty, orange corrosive gel that fouls the radiator, heater, plugs coolant passages in the intake manifold and heads, and many times starves the water pump, resulting in overheating, and leaking. Mounting evidence suggests that Dex-cool reacts with plastic sealing surfaces, allowing leakage at the intake manifold gaskets. The best thing to do without voiding any warranty, is to change your coolant every two years with the recommended coolant. CHANGE THE COOLANT EVERY TWO YEARS!! ESPECIALLY IF IT DEX-COOL!! DEX-COOL IS THE WORST OFFENDER. DEX-COOL DOES NOT LAST 5 YEARS OR 1000,000 MILES*.

Info from this link: http://www.sancarlosradiator.com/dex-cool.htm