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Fluidampr off the 1989 6.5

There were 2 versions, one with a long snout for the mechanical Injection 6.2/5 and one with the short snout for the electronically controlled injection. There is a reluctor or a 'tone' wheel between the crank timing sproket and the balancer. If I recall correctly this reluctor is 15mm thick. So one could use a short snout on a mechanical engine you just have to machine a 15mm spacer. The other way around I suppose one could part off 15mm from a long snout in a lathe.
 
I'll have to compare when I get the other one out.

It seems like, when I bought this one, they sent a ring with the Fluidampr and they were all short.

But I could be remembering wrong.

Or maybe I'm thinking of the early engine oil cooler lines.
I think they sent both sizes of fittings in the beginning, so it didn't matter what year your block was.

Is it possible to buy a ring?

Would it be easier to cut the end of the present harmonic balancer?
 
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The reluctor wheel is built into the timing chain crank gear. If your balancer has the spacer ring, just leave it off. If it is the long snout, and you don’t need the reluctor, you can change the crank sprocket.

IMG_6847.jpeg
 
It's been a long time since I've been inside for a timing chain or to change a Fluidampr.

A very long time. Probably the 1998 Suburban. That was over 100,000 miles ago. And I don't know how many years. It sat for several years before I got rid of it.
 
Hope I don’t muddy up the post

Here is a 94 up DS4 balancer showing both the crank gear with reluctor and spacer ring for use with gear with out reluctor

image2.jpeg

Photo comparing reluctor to spacer
image0.jpeg

And one of spacer at balancer showing difference in length of the old DB2 balancer
image1.jpeg
 
Wow. I've been trying to get this done for quite a while.

TORSIONAL DAMPER AND FRONT CRANKSHAFT SEAL REPLACEMENT }*•-•{ Remove or Disconnect (Figures 19 and 20) Tool Required: J 39046 Torsional Damper Puller

1. Negative battery cables. Refer to SECTION OA.
2. Accessory drive belt.
3. Bolts and crankshaft pulley.
4. Torsional damper bolt and washer.
5. Torsional damper. Use J 39046 (figure 19). 6. Front crankshaft seal. Pry out with a screwdriver. -•« Install or Connect (Figure 20) NOTICE: For steps 3 and 4, refer to "Notice" on page 6A6-1. Tool Required: J 22102 Seal Installer
1. New front crankshaft seal. Use J 22102 (figure 20). Lubricate the seal lips with engine oil. 3106r4578 • Apply engine oil to the crankshaft stub.
2. Torsional damper. Tap into place with a mallet. Make sure the key is in place. Make sure the damper is all the way on the crankshaft.
3. Torsional damper bolt and washer.
3. Clamp and bolt. Tighten • Bolt to 42 N.m (31 lbs. ft.).
4. Wiring harness.
5. Air cleaner.
6. Negative battery cables. ft Tighten • Bolt to 270 N.m (200 lbs. ft.).
4. Crankshaft pulley and bolts. Tighten ft.). • Bolts to 40 N.m (30 lbs. 5. Accessory drive belt. 6. Negative battery cables.
 
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