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Fluidamper??

99burb

99burb

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columbus ohio
I was thinking about installing a Fluidamper on my 6.5. Has anyone had a crank break after installing one? I'm just curious... 400.00 is quite a bit of money.
Tx Jim :???:
 
Summit was the best price. I just got one. I got paranoid after swapping an engine into a freinds 6.5 that busted the crank from a balancer that came apart. Is 400$ worth the money ?? Well here's the thing. The original factory US/Canada made ones could easily go 150k+ miles so a factory replacement would probably be good for the remainder of the engine's life but now every part is Chinese or mexican made garbage. You buy a Dorman balancer who knows how long it will last. Spend the money for a USA made Fluidampr and you just made a major investment in your engines health. That was my thinking anyway. I'm putting mine on this weekend after I fab up an installed. Seems no one had an installer that is M16x1.5 so I bought a long bolt and will fashion one. I would not use a hammer on a 400$ balancer even if the book says so.
 
Fluidampr here on my 6.2T, so far so good. I am fortunate enough to have a fancy shmancy installer/ puller, but noticed the 6.5 balancer is not quite as tight to the crank snout as most other engines, so the long bolt deal would probably work out fine.

Don't forget the spacer for the mechanical 6.5's. Or you could use the CPS reluctor, same difference.
 
Comp Cams, ATI, Moroso and ProForm make an installer/remover that has the proper adapter.

The big one on the right, in the group of the smaller adapter pieces on the top left. ... And IIRC the size is 16x1.75mm. I think???

778-66514_1.jpg
 
i had to sort of jerry rig an installer on mine there was no way i was going to hammer on that thing. i think it is well worth the money iv had 2 seperate and that was the end of the chinesse made ones for me.
 
I really want to buy one, i'd like for my K5 to be a little more serene in the interior and also want less to worry about on my engine.
 
Thanks for all the reply's!! I think it's a good idea, I've got 180,000 on the original. I was just wondering if this "solves" the broken crank issues or just reduces the chance.
 
Our cast iron cranks (as opposed to forged steel) need all the help they can get. It really is a good investment.

Solves? Jury is out on that one.
 
Im gonna be buying one for the engine im building right now. Trying to source one out in edmonton instead of ordering online since CANADA POST might be going on strike next week...... can go wrong with a fluid damper.
 
3500GMC said:
Comp Cams, ATI, Moroso and ProForm make an installer/remover that has the proper adapter.

The big one on the right, in the group of the smaller adapter pieces on the top left. ... And IIRC the size is 16x1.75mm. I think???

778-66514_1.jpg
Click to expand...

Kenny this is the same one I offered for you to use. They are great when you need it, Removes and installs.
 
99burb said:
Thanks for all the reply's!! I think it's a good idea, I've got 180,000 on the original. I was just wondering if this "solves" the broken crank issues or just reduces the chance.
Click to expand...

How many more miles do you expect out of the engine and the entire vehicle? Keep in mind an entire low mile take out engine can be had for $1200. plus install, free if you do it yourself. The Fluidampr is a part you would swap over to the next engine. This is how you justify it's cost. Selling it used is also an option.

The mains cracking in the block would be my concern with the miles you have on the engine - yet some can get 100K or more out of the engine. But a main crack that comes out of the block will bend or break a crank. And you get a take out engine with a crank - so not a big concern of busting the crank.

The damper failing and taking out the crank is a valid concern. This is why you would inspect it at every oil change. The damper can also come completely loose and hit the timing cover and oil pan. This leaves interesting marks on them.

The dealer damper I used run about $100.00 and lasted about 30K of hard use before the rubber started to pop out. It was less than 1 year old.

This will give you a feel for a high maintenance item that can be removed from the checklist. 120K and it breaks even on cost.

Then you have a small fact that the expensive damper does a better job than the factory unit. Factory is at one frequency (the one that busts the crank) where the high end one does a lot more frequencies. You may or may not feel this improvement.
 
Between my own 3 vehicles and the 6.2 in the waldon loader combined i have far over a million KM on them.And on the trucks i have serviced for others I never seen a busted stock damper yet, wonder what you guys do to have them break up???
 
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