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Fluidamper Installation/ Harmonic Balancer Removal + Pulley Replacement

btsayles

Diesel Proficient
Messages
56
Reaction score
25
Location
Wisconsin Rapids
Allrighty guys and gals. I figured I'd try my hand at installing the new fluidamper this weekend. Nothing apparently wrong with either but I'm high strung and worry about everything. I must have researched the installation from three or four different locations, but one never really gets the idea until they have gone there on their own. Without some of the information out there that you guys have done before, I would have been scratching my head a lot more than I ended up. Since I couldn't find a post with really clear and detailed descriptions, I figured I would maybe help someone out in the future like you guys have helped me with almost everything I've done with my baby. So here's a big thank you to you guys and your neverending wisdom that you so kindly share with guys like me! THANK YOU!
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Pic 1 Here's the start. Fan shrouds removed, fan removed belt off. Here's the stock harmonic balancer and pulley. Nothing really wrong. Pulley's a little f'd up. Kind of a torqueing look to it huh? Scrap bin that b.
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Pic 2,3,4 Here I have removed the four bolts securing the pulley to the balancer. A little bumping the ratchet with the palm of the hand, but not too bad to get the bolts loose. All I could see were some superficial cracking in the rubber on the pulley. I never had any clanking on shutdown or any other time for that fact, but as you can see the cross is off from the bolt holes.
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Thanks to Matt Banchand's post with the flat-bar, I didn't stick anything in the wherever someone else posted to stick it and break the torque on the HB bolt. Mighty tight I might say. I just threaded two bolts into the old pulley bolt holes and put the handle of the pry-bar down in between the steering box crotch. Holds the bar perfectly for tightening and loosening. Threw an extension on the breaker bar and it came off smooth as silk. Might need another pry-bar to turn back the crank a tad bit to relieve the tension holding the pry-bar down. Thanks again Matt!
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Here is my puller kit. If I didn't have this I would have gone to advance. I checked every store in town AZ,O'crappy,Advance,Napa. Best tool rental by far is Advance. If you are doing this job, rent the HB removal and installation tool from there. Install the conical tip into the jack-shaft of the jacking screw, thread the jack screw into the puller plate, thread the two bolts in the HB through the tool loosely, thread the jack screw in until the conical tip finds center, of the crank, lightly tighten bolts into HB and turn the jackshaft. Should come off very easy. At least mine did. Very little noticable defects in the stock HB. If I didn't love my truck so much I'd have put it back on.
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Here's the new toy! Hopefully this is the last time I have to look at it. Sorry but this is the max pics I can insert in any one thread. I'll be back to finnish the inst. in a few min.
 
Back with 'ya folks.
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Here's the snout. Not a nick, gouge, scratch or corrosion at all. Beautiful. Put a little turbine oil on the snout to facilitate new balancer installation. To all of those out there who said their new balancer slid on easily, good for you because mine didn't. once alligned with the key, which was easy because of all of the room to see, I lightly tapped with a small, soft, get your mind out of the gutter, dead blow hammer until I felt like I was safe from dropping this $440 hunk of metal.
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Here is the installation tool I had to run to town to borrow from Advance I was flapping my gums about earlier. Good news: The tool worked; it didn't screw anything up; it didn't break. Bad news: didn't have the correct thread for the internal crank threads. Which is M16-1.5 IIRC. My suggestion, don't work on Sundays. No, not because of the Lord's day, sorry guys, because fastenall isn't open and ACE doesn't have S#$% in meteric. Anyways, long story short, I used the 5/8-can't remember attachment, and it surprisingly threaded in about 5 full threads before acting like taper pipe thread. I was scared shitless, but I had to get this little guy done. It turned on fairly easily. It didn't go on hand tight or anything, but it was fine to get it to the point where the HB bolt was engauged about 6 or 7 threads. Then I just turned it the rest of the way on with the HB bolt. Nothin' to it. That's why I took this picture of me swetting like a pig from being nervous about f'n up my crank. JK it's 95 and like 150%humidity up here in WI. Like my stock down-pipe trophy in the background? Stupid engineers!:nonod: PS, I know I look like a d-bag.:iamwithstupid:

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Here's a little blue loc-tite for good luck and the same meathod for removal. Pry-bar held in crotch of steering box. Works perfectly. Torque 200 ft lbs. No problem. Get a big azz torque wrench. I'm a helo mech. so I have some big toys.):h By the way the therma-cell kicked butt keeping the mosquitos away. Lots of rain and humidity. Must be mosquito season!

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Fluidamper installed and torqued with anti-tamper/slip marks on. Like I said earlier, I'm paranoid. Pretty huh?:thumbsup:

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Installed the pulley with the four bolts from before and marked them. And there she be boys. Obviously put the fan and shroud and belt back on!
My truck ran smooth before the installation, so I really didn't know what to expect. The engine idles very nice. A little bit better than earlier, but throughout the range of RPM is where I was happy. Very smooth all the way through. Necessary? To me it is. I don't have to worry about the little guy for a long time now, and I never need to check to see if my rubber is cracking, disbonding, weathering, or anything else for that matter. Basically, I have peace of mind.

I hope this is helpful for you guys who are wondering how this goes. Not bad in my mind. Once again, thanks to all of those who did it before me!:grouphug: I always thought this icon was a bunch of people putting their heads together. A grouphug? Whatever, see you guys later.
 
might add one thing-

always replace the front seal! You probably did that but I didn't see it in the write up. Just did mine last Friday myself. I put RTV around the seal where it meets the timing cover, and a lil antisieze on crank side (inside) of HB, and grease on seal side (outside) of HB.
 

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You were spot on about the seal Steve93mustanglx. I am an idiot for not replacing it when I was in there. Oh well. This weekend I'm going to pull out the radiator and give it it's yearly spit shine, before plowing season. Anyone know where I can get a snout bolt? I want to make an installation tool. It was so easy to do the first time, I want to make it easier.
 
You should of took the pic of yourself and showed it to the Fluidamper....She would of jumped right on to the crank and torqed herself down!.....:eek: jk:)
 
Thanks for an excellant write up. I missed the flat bar trick. I should have been paying more attention.
I have another to do in the 94 crew cab. I'll more than likeley be doing timing chain and gears soon. 235,000 miles and the original timing chain as far as I know. I will check it at the very least.
After I get the glow plugs changed on the 98 Suburban and the PMD changed on the 95 Tahoe.
The wifes driving my truck now. I always get whichever vehicle needs to be worked on.
And then I start over on the 96 Suburban - it was 1000 miles short of an oil change last time I saw it. Sometimes I feel like a fleet mechanic and there's only 3 of us unless my son brings his home.
 
Rock Auto #3945 Timken seal. Same as on helos. Good seals. $6.25 plus discount.. Fastenal can get you the M16-1.5 50mm grade 8 bolt to make the installation too for 4 bucks too. Best price on the bolt around. Trust me I looked everywhere. Try finding anything other than 2.0 pitch on an M16 bolt.
 
Thanks!

Swapped mine out yesterday for new Dorman balancer & crank pulley.

The hardest part was getting the crank seal out for replacement.

My old ones were still in pretty good shape. I was hearing a click noise when shutting mine down hot.

Many thanks to this post for all the info & pics, made my swap job go very smooth :thumbsup:
 
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