Fluid Damper GROUP BUY. thru 13 Dec 12

[handcannon]

Leroy, mine just arrived. We get few people back our long driveway. I heard someone drive in past the house, turn around and park right next to the front door. I figured it would be my son, but instead the doorbell rang which started a chorus from the Boxers. Our mail carrier was at the door asking for a signature and she also said she needed help as the box was heavy, and yup, it was the damper!!

Box was a little worn, but in good shape. Thank you!!

Got to figure out now when to do the swap. I'm almost finished with the headgasket repair on the 88 Crown Vic, so I guess the pickup will soon take it's place under the plastic tarp in the operating room, out in the rain of course.

Don

 

[Burning oil]

Great! Good to hear it got there.

 

[JayTheCPA]

Anyone else get theirs yet?

Mine arrived yesterday and picked it up today. Box was pretty beat-up with a ~4" split, so now that I know the proper contents, will open and inspect tomorrow. One side had extra tape on it which showed a lot of 'squish' but no tear, so looked like the tape prevented a second tear.

In fairness, it looked like the damper shifted around inside the box while in transit which likely had a lot to do with the box's condition at destination, so am not so sure that any other carrier would have delivered in much different condition. (just say-in )

 

[Big T]

Hello Ivan. I have a Fluiddampr on my '99 that I installed at 170K. Very pleased with it, but can't really say much of a difference from a seat of the pants feel. I believe that my engine mounts are badly worn, resulting in a vibration/buzz in the dash and doors a idle. Anything above idle and this goes away. I know that I had to trim much of the lip away on my fan shroud to fit the Dmax fan, so it's really settled on the worn mounts.

IIRC e cranks break from metal fatigue as a result of duty cycles. So I'm wondering if there is any benefit on a high mileage motor (250K miles) as most of the damage/wear was already incurred? I also understand that many of the problems with broken cranks were due to gas bubbles in the crank during the casting process, resulting in a weak spot. Wondering how the Fluiddampr would address such an unlucky circumstance?

Steve

 

[WarWagon]

The early failures would be from defects in the crank. The non-forged GM Bean counter substitution crank did not help. The OEM damper is only good for around 30K in hard use before the rubber gives it up. Least that is how long the new GM part lasted on my 1993 towing every day.

Metal fatigue is a failure mode. However vibrations at a harmonic will break even a new crankshaft.

I had to trim the fan shroud on my 1995 for the DMax fan with new engine mounts.

 

[turbonator]

Hello Ivan. I have a Fluiddampr on my '99 that I installed at 170K. Very pleased with it, but can't really say much of a difference from a seat of the pants feel. I believe that my engine mounts are badly worn, resulting in a vibration/buzz in the dash and doors a idle. Anything above idle and this goes away. I know that I had to trim much of the lip away on my fan shroud to fit the Dmax fan, so it's really settled on the worn mounts.

IIRC e cranks break from metal fatigue as a result of duty cycles. So I'm wondering if there is any benefit on a high mileage motor (250K miles) as most of the damage/wear was already incurred? I also understand that many of the problems with broken cranks were due to gas bubbles in the crank during the casting process, resulting in a weak spot. Wondering how the Fluiddampr would address such an unlucky circumstance?

Stevr

i also believe the cranks broke as a result of the extreme drive pressures of the gm-x turbos placing stress on the rotating assembly, due to the high cylinger pressures cuased by the drive pressure....

 

[GM Guy]

got mine saturday, but didnt unwrap it till today.

I thought one was still going to Idaho, so I was surprised to see two in one Fluidampr Box. That said, putting two damprs in a box meant for one didnt turn out so good, both have got dents and nicks in a few important surfaces. how do you want to proceed? Were they insured? I can grab some pics, but unfortunately wont be able to upload here on Dialup. I could text them, but IDK how good or bad my camera on the phone is.

we can continue in PMs if you like.

thanks,
Robert

 

[Burning oil]

I PMed you. call me tomorrow sometime.

 

[inc4203]

Hello Ivan. I have a Fluiddampr on my '99 that I installed at 170K. Very pleased with it, but can't really say much of a difference from a seat of the pants feel. I believe that my engine mounts are badly worn, resulting in a vibration/buzz in the dash and doors a idle. Anything above idle and this goes away. I know that I had to trim much of the lip away on my fan shroud to fit the Dmax fan, so it's really settled on the worn mounts.

IIRC e cranks break from metal fatigue as a result of duty cycles. So I'm wondering if there is any benefit on a high mileage motor (250K miles) as most of the damage/wear was already incurred? I also understand that many of the problems with broken cranks were due to gas bubbles in the crank during the casting process, resulting in a weak spot. Wondering how the Fluiddampr would address such an unlucky circumstance?

Steve

Hi Steve,

Thank you for the feedback and your questions.

There are definite benefits on a high mileage motor even though damage may have already been done. One, would be replacing the failing stock damper. Since you stated this has already been done, you may not feel the damper doing its job, particularly with bad engine mounts but the Fluidampr is absorbing vibrations that would be much worse with a worn stock damper. These vibrations if not properly absorbed would be wearing critical components at a much quicker rate.

Cheaper crankshafts (often overseas) where you see gas or air bubbles in the cast or metal will obviously comprimise the integrity of the crank. Again, Fluidampr will do a much better job at protecting torsionals across the entire RPM range vs a pre-determined range found with elastomeric dampers. However, a cheap crankshaft will eventually fail regardless of damper if the metal sees to much stress.

I hope this helps.

Thanks,
Ivan

 

[Big T]

Hi Steve,

Thank you for the feedback and your questions.

There are definite benefits on a high mileage motor even though damage may have already been done. One, would be replacing the failing stock damper. Since you stated this has already been done, you may not feel the damper doing its job, particularly with bad engine mounts but the Fluidampr is absorbing vibrations that would be much worse with a worn stock damper. These vibrations if not properly absorbed would be wearing critical components at a much quicker rate.

Cheaper crankshafts (often overseas) where you see gas or air bubbles in the cast or metal will obviously comprimise the integrity of the crank. Again, Fluidampr will do a much better job at protecting torsionals across the entire RPM range vs a pre-determined range found with elastomeric dampers. However, a cheap crankshaft will eventually fail regardless of damper if the metal sees to much stress.

I hope this helps.

Thanks,
Ivan

Thanks Ivan, very helpful. We just recently bought a clean, but high mileage (242K) '94 Suburban K2500 4wd with 6.5 TD. Going through a triage list of mods, addressing those that could have the potential to kill the engine first (i.e. oil lines) and the Fluiddampr is on the list. This '94 replaces a '95 which I gave my son and he unfortunately flipped and totaled after hitting some black ice. We got the wreck back which has a basically new transmission and the engine has 184K miles on it. So the remaining question would be if we installed the Fluiddampr on the '94 engine, could it be transferred to the '95 engine when that day comes and that engine goes in the '94? In other words, does the Fluiddampr take a "set" to an engine, or does it remain fluid and can play with many partners?

 

[GM Guy]

Hey Ivan, I was wondering if you could tell me where the seal rides on the Fluidampr, it appears one of the Fluidamprs isnt damaged, but has manufacturing irregularities in the tapered area on the edge of the nose.

also, how important is the fit of the spacer on the mechanical pumped engines? the ones I got have a few tiny nicks in them, and was wondering if they are OK to run as is, or if not, can they be filed on to make smooth?




here is the irregular nose.

thanks!

 

[tanman_2006]

My dampners are in town at the post office (stupid fat lady won't drop things in my shop) and I have not felt well enough to go get them. I wished I would have gotten 2 dampners for a db2 truck now but oh well.

 

[inc4203]

Thanks Ivan, very helpful. We just recently bought a clean, but high mileage (242K) '94 Suburban K2500 4wd with 6.5 TD. Going through a triage list of mods, addressing those that could have the potential to kill the engine first (i.e. oil lines) and the Fluiddampr is on the list. This '94 replaces a '95 which I gave my son and he unfortunately flipped and totaled after hitting some black ice. We got the wreck back which has a basically new transmission and the engine has 184K miles on it. So the remaining question would be if we installed the Fluiddampr on the '94 engine, could it be transferred to the '95 engine when that day comes and that engine goes in the '94? In other words, does the Fluiddampr take a "set" to an engine, or does it remain fluid and can play with many partners?

You are welcome Steve. I am sorry to hear about your sons unfortunate accident. The Fluidampr can be switched to the other engine without issue. The Fluidampr does not take "set" to a particular engine when installed and will function normal when switched.

Feel free to let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.

Thank you,
Ivan

 

[inc4203]

Hey Ivan, I was wondering if you could tell me where the seal rides on the Fluidampr, it appears one of the Fluidamprs isnt damaged, but has manufacturing irregularities in the tapered area on the edge of the nose.

also, how important is the fit of the spacer on the mechanical pumped engines? the ones I got have a few tiny nicks in them, and was wondering if they are OK to run as is, or if not, can they be filed on to make smooth?


View attachment 36555

here is the irregular nose.

thanks!

I do not like the look of the crank snout in the picture. The seal usually sits past the chamfer on the tip, but this looks like a pretty good ding. Can you get some closer shots and email to me directly at [email protected] for further evaluation. I am not sure how these units have taken such a beating. You should have noticed the packing we ship them in is a full foam wrap inside of the Fluidampr box. I rarely see any shipping issues. As far as the spacer this is important but i would like to see images for this as well. This should be able to just be filed as you suggested without problem, but again, the images will help us determine such.

Thanks,
Ivan

 

[Burning oil]

My dampners are in town at the post office (stupid fat lady won't drop things in my shop) and I have not felt well enough to go get them. I wished I would have gotten 2 dampners for a db2 truck now but oh well.

You are getting DB2 FDs

 

[NVW]

I think mine is in, I got the mail tonight and there is a parcel card with my name on it.

 

[tanman_2006]

You are getting DB2 FDs

That's works, I thought I put in for one of each. I know the spacer is the only difference.

 

[Burning oil]

I think mine is in, I got the mail tonight and there is a parcel card with my name on it.

Tracking said its waiting for your pick up.

 

[NVW]

Well, I haven't checked tracking since it was sent on Dec 26th. But then I've been quite busy. Thanks Leroy.

You should look into selling the KOJO tunes next.

Tracking said its waiting for your pick up.

 

[Burning oil]

Well, I haven't checked tracking since it was sent on Dec 26th. But then I've been quite busy. Thanks Leroy.

You should look into selling the KOJO tunes next.

Im waiting to see what Dennis comes up with.