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Fishing trip not without issues...

Crankme69

Crankme69

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Illinois the Corruption Capitol of USA
Ran fine 650 miles stopped on the way & met Barry BK95td...I owed him a dinner for a favor he did for me, he's a great guy! ;) MPG = 20.7 running cruise at 75mph gotta love that :thumbsup:

On the 3rd day here at the cabin & no wait to start light & no boost :mad2:. All of you turbo master guys can say I told you so :eek:. The SOB is blowing the IGN A 20 amp fuse. Replaced it with a 30 amp, blows that also. I unplugged both EGR solenoids they were not being used anyway, the EGR is long gone.

Ran the truck for a day with the EGR SOLs unplugged & it blew the fuse again :mad2:

Unplugged the turbo boost solenoid & for now hooked up a screen door spring to keep some boost until I can confirm the boost SOL is the issue.

The screen door spring was a quick fix about 10lbs boost at WOT & about 4 at cruise that was a break I needed about all of 3 min to install :eek:

I freakin hate electrical problems, all grounds are clean, did them trouble shooting this issue when the same fuse was blowing when the EGR SOL chit the bed about 6 months ago right before I deleted it.

Any advice would be appreciated...I have 650 mile trip home coming this Saturday...

TIA~!
 
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sounds like something is shorting out.
what else runs of that fuse?
Be carefull with upping the fuse,you dont want to fry the wiring.
 
IGN A is shown as a 40 A MAXI fuse in the 95 manual. My 95 has a 40 there. Check the inside of the cover to see what the recommended fuse size is listed as.

IGN A feeds part of the ignition switch, the circuits below are powered depending on the ignition switch position.

Starter Solenoid

Underhood Fuse Relay Center:
Fuel Sol 20 amp, Injection Pump 12V Ignition Input
ECM-1 20 amp, Ignition to PCM
ENG-1 20 amp, VIN S, EGR 3 ea to PCM, Water in Fuel, Glow Plug Relay,Fuel Heater

I/P Fuse Block:
Crank 10 amp, Fuel Pump Relay
Trans 10 amp, Transmission Shift Solenoids

If none of the sub feed fuses are bad and the starter solenoid wire is not shorted then I would say someone replaced the IGN A fuse with a lower rated fuse.
I can dig through the manual for a specific circuit if you need more information.
 
Talked to crankme69 last night. The fuse thats blowing is engine 1 in the underhood fuse box. Boost and egr solenoids ,water in fuel sensor and fuel heater are on that circuit. He's gonna try unplugging the fuel bheater and water in fuel sensor today.
 
Fishing has been about the same as it has been the last few years...kinda spotty, picked up a nice Northern Pike 6lbs the other day casting for bass. The crappie & perch have been tough to find here the last 5 yrs or so fishing Stoney lake Hackensack Minn.

Still running the truck with all the last boost SOL unplugged for time being, so far so good. I should patten the screen door spring, it works in a pinch, just have to remember to pull the screen door shut on the cabin LOL!

The weather here has been a nice change to the hot & humidity that I left back home in Ill.

Barry thanks for the call last night, if the fuse blows again...I will unplug the heater & water sensor next.

Thanks to all for the help & suggestions :thumbsup:
 
The solenids are grounded by the PCM, which does it to control their duty cycle. The short would have to be on the line between the fuse and the solenoid. If you had a multimeter, or carried one around with you everywhere like me, (a test light would actually be sufficient) pull the fuse and check to see if the wire to terminal A of the solenoid is grounded. Could be an intermittent fuel heater short as well. Does it blow right away with the ignition?
 
Seems odd that a soleniod would blow a fuse that size.
I'd be looking for a rub through wire or the heater circuit problem that would draw more current.
 
Yup agree...this will hopefully get me home & being this far from home I'll take that for now. Even if it blows the fuse again at least with my HO made TM I will have some boost until I can get home and do more checking.

Thanks for the replies everyone...and wish me luck!
 
fuel heater seems a pretty good suspect.
I got an spare fuel manager out of a 95.The F heater wire grommet is split in half right in the trough hole.
Both wires are almost wore trough the insulation
 
bison said:
fuel heater seems a pretty good suspect.
I got an spare fuel manager out of a 95.The F heater wire grommet is split in half right in the trough hole.
Both wires are almost wore trough the insulation
Click to expand...

Interesting.

I've got a spare one here that had the same issue.

The grommet split in half and fell out while I was handling it, but the wires are undamaged.

Just age I guess....
 
Well made it home just fine, kinda interesting watching the boost & EGT gauges on the way home with the the screen door spring controlling my boost pressure vs the PCM custom chip. This spring was running a tad more boost at cruise with a tad less at WOT, interesting to say the least. The overall EGT's at cruise were similar & maybe even a tad lower, while the spikes up long hills climbs were a little higher. The boost would not climb over 8lbs even with the go pedal at WOT = spring a tad to week IMO allowing for the exhaust pressure to overwhelm the spring tension pushing the wastegate open some when at WOT.

The differences were minor, MPG was very close to the same. The spring seems to create a little bit of turbo lag that does not seem to be there with the PCM control? Might just be all in my mind???

The fuse was blown when I stopped in Black River Falls (AGAIN SOB!) on my way home for a bite to eat & to stretch some...now have to figure out what plugs behind the filter are for the fuel heater to unplug that next.

Truck did very well on fuel, it used 3/4 of a tank 21 gal fuel from Clear Water, Minn to Planfield, Ill. That stretch was 466 miles = 22 mpg. One major difference was I drove that stretch and I use the cruise religiously with a majority of the time having it set at 75mph with the AC on the entire way.

So there is a little feed back for the great debate spring vs vac control for wastegate boost for ya all, that was pretty cool IMO for comparison. Oh & by the way no trailer towing just the truck hauling 2 passengers AC on & with my leather bed cover closed sealing off the top of my 8ft bed.

Now to figure out what is causing the fuse to blow...:mad2:
 
It does seem odd when you dont get the right spring how it behaves. I think its because the screen door spring is made to hold the door shut with resistance early, but then it has to let go for easy door swinging. You can get a good spring that maintains low boost at cruise and reach high boost at WOT. Although it will have more "lag" than the stock setup as you say, at least with what I have tested. Thats because the vacuum setup hold that gate completely closed and doesnt give on an intial spurt of WOT. Same thing while cruising and hitting the pedal hard. As well while accelerating, some people might lose boost as they accelerate with a spring. It depends how dynamic the spring is, and what you think is low enough while cruising and high enough accelerating.
 
QUESTION???

That screen door spring saved my arse, not a great fit but better then nuttin IMO :eek:

Hey having a brain fart storm here, why couldn't I just leave that spring on there along with the vac control, so if this happens again...I won't be without any boost ever again, that sucks! :rolleyes5:

I'm trying to figure out what the downside would be have the spring backup along with the vac control ?
 
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