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FIRST DIESEL!!!

Fuel into the ip, out the return of the ip, nothing coming out the injection lines. Swapped ip with same exact results.
I just want to make sure I understand this correctly.:confused5:

Did you use any of the same parts from old to new ip? Did you verify fuel shut off solenoid working properly? Remove the oil fill tube and verify the pump is turning.

Put a pressure gauge before the ip. Then move it to the return line coming out of the ip. Check cranking with no glow plugs in. Next measure volume of fuel at the same two locations.
 
only part that moved to new pump was the throttle postion sensor. i do a hear a faint click when i connect the fuel shut off.

yes first description fo everything was accurate fuel in no fuel out. i can fill 3ft of clear hose with no bubbles at the return line....
 
Pull the solenoid and verify. Better yet bypass it and just disconnect the fuel line to shut down if you have to.

I feel like there is a step I am missing to tell you... Maybe it will hit me while I go bust my knuckles changing my second sidewall killed tire for the month.
 
Remove it.
The fuel shut off solenoid is improperly named. With no power the mechanical spring cuts fuel flow. When the solenoid is activated it allows fuel to flow. It should be called a fuel turn on solenoid.

You could just pinch the fuel line to cause shut down with less messy results.

Oh, did I mention -do not use Starting fluid!
 
the IP you replaced has the same terminal locations as the original. I know the pump came in 12v and 24V. the terminals are the only big difference. also verify a solid 12V on the pink wire and the top cover has a good ground reading.
 
so the solenoid was the problem it was around 5 v i chased the wire made sure it was good and found the glow plug relay was bad just replaced it and i have 12.5 at the IP solenoid. i have cranked a few times and it is still bubbling. the glow plugs are out to help it purge some air. now that i know that the 12v is at the solenoid i am about to remove tehstandyne 80 and filter to put on a new racor 445........oh and still not getting any spray out of the glow plug holes when i turn it over:mad2:
 
Hit the pink wire terminal with 12v direct from the battery on the IP. It is the terminal to the passenger side closest to the front of the engine on the IP. The other terminal is a cold advance solenoid. Wire them both if you like.

Bubbling?

Crank at WOT to move the most fuel and air. It takes 2 min of 30 second cranking to get it to start to hit. DB2's are hard to prime.

You may want a board handy to choke the intake off in case it runs away.
 
WarWagon said:
Hit the pink wire terminal with 12v direct from the battery on the IP. It is the terminal to the passenger side closest to the front of the engine on the IP. The other terminal is a cold advance solenoid. Wire them both if you like.

Bubbling?

Crank at WOT to move the most fuel and air. It takes 2 min of 30 second cranking to get it to start to hit. DB2's are hard to prime.

You may want a board handy to choke the intake off in case it runs away.
Click to expand...

So im definetly getting 12 v to the solenoid and to the cold advance. I still have the plugs out so it is spinning with ease. Not getting any spray from glow plug holes and not geting fuel at the injectors. I have 10 psi before racor filter and 10 psi after filter....i get bubbles in the clear return line on some of the cranks.....
 
My mind suspects 12v at the IP during cranking. So part of the 12v direct from battery thought. Voltages get funny with cranking loads on grounds that get hot/are not very good etc.

If you see fuel moving in the return line during cranking the pump is turning. (No snapped drive shaft, broken chain, etc.)

So we are at air in fuel, no fuel due to kinked or restricted hose, IP solenoid voltage failure. IP was swapped so likely 2 bad is remote but possible.

It takes several WOT 30 second cranks followed by 2 min starter cooling to get a DB2 to light. Then they run badly till all the air is purged.
 
On rare occasions the plungers will stick from setting too long. It happened to me once. I simply blew 150 psi shop air in the inlet hose to pop them back out.
 
So the 12v at the solenoid and cold advance disappears when crankimg it drops by 3 volts. I shot a jumper wire straight from batteries and advanced the injection pump im now getting what seems to be fuel at the injectors (or some of the injectors).but it wont run and their is stil the issur of why im losing the volts at the pump. In addition i have discovered the wonderful wiring a previous owner has left for me. The glow plugs are manual however if you plug the pigtail of wires into the glow plug controller it ahorts the connection and leaves them on when the ignition is on. Unplug the pigtail and manual switch works correctly.:WTF:
 
Around 10 volts while cranking is considered normal . Your pump is from a 6.2
 
just a number said:
the IP you replaced has the same terminal locations as the original. I know the pump came in 12v and 24V. the terminals are the only big difference. also verify a solid 12V on the pink wire and the top cover has a good ground reading.
Click to expand...

How can i verify if i got the 24v or the 12v db 2829-4574 i have seen descriptions for both. This pump has a ling stud for the cold advance and the fuel cut off but the locatiins are different than my last pump
 
if it's got a lug opposite the return fuel line then it's a 24V setup. the nice thing is though you can just switch the tops and your done.
 
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