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Filter/snotty sock sputtering

I ran a Heath h/o pump thru tank sock and a Racor 10 micron, and it held it's own most of the time, except WOT and heavy tow WOT, until pump caught up to the steady state demand about 2-10 sec, even a stock GM lift would do it but took forever to recover 20+ sec depending on the size of the hill or how hard WOT I was into it, and then just holding to 1 psi (minimum you really want as sustained IP feed), the Heath h/o holds 3-4 psi after recovery. Walbro never goes below 4 in any situation encountered thus far, 6-7 at cruise speed, 10-12 pulsed at idle.

Thanks, great info.
 
I wonder if you couldn't, run a die nut on the plastic post, fine thread cut CAREFULLY, then put both the washer, and a stainless steel nut on the post to lock down the baffle, should not come off then.

The bottom of my tank has 3 metal posts molded to the bottom of the tank IIRC. But the die nut is a good idea. Would the nylon in a nylon nut degrade in the fuel?
 
I think (hope) I just fixed my baffle from coming loose. I put it back on and only found 2 of the washers in the tank. One of them fit on and the other wouldn't. It may have been tweaked slightly. I took some small hose clamps and tightened them up so they would just barely push down onto the studs. Hopefully I don't have to drop my tank for another 10 years or so.
 
One other thing I did is bend the bottom of the fsu w/ the sock on it so it was about 1/8 inch longer. I had to push the fsu down hard to get the seating ring to close all the way. I haven't noticed it leaking yet. I hope it doesn't start.
 
The baffle just traps dirt and stuff? My tank has no baffle inside.

Actually the baffle has one more job. The holes that face the front of the truck trap fuel inside the baffle when going up hill. This keeps all the fuel from running to the back of the tank when it is almost empty. Otherwise you could run out of fuel when you aren't out of fuel.
 
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