filter fuel tap or "T" on line to IP?

[Franko914]

I would'nt get to paranoid,nuttin wrong with using copper or brass for diesel fuel fittings.

I would tend to agree. You would want to stay away from the hot-dipped zinc as the coating can flake even without a solute. Electro-plated zinc should be okay.

From the Biodisel.org: "Copper, brass, lead, tin, and zinc should be avoided," so remember which parts are made of what when using bio-diesel blends.

I would mount the pressure sender somewhere on the engine, the fender or firewall, and use a suitable hose to connect to the fitting. Eventually, that tube holding it up will crack under non-stop vibration. Alternatively, you can use a short length of suitable hose at the base connected to the fitting, then attach the tube with the sender to the hose... the hose should absorb much of the vibration.

 

[Turbine Doc]

Hmmmm I wonder how TDs is holding up he used copper

Only copper is to my pressure gauge, 1/8" tubing, so far so good on that, rest of my fittings are brass or stainless steel.

 

[chessie 6.5]

Please change that piece of tubing to a flexible hose before it fails. At certain rpms, that setup will act as a tuning fork for engine vibration and cause a failure. That is going to be a lot of fuel blowing around on a hot engine. Personally, I'd mount a sending unit down on the frame in front of lift pump on a short adapter piece. Any fuel leak failure will only be out on the road. An added plus is if you have a failure down there in that location, you can then do some awsome smoky burnouts for your Dodge/Cummins friends.

 

[buddy]

At least its diesel and wont light on fire!

 

[NVW]

It will if it sprays on a hot exh manifold.

I had an air compressor bracket break and the engine oil supply line broke and sprayed on the manifold. I should never have put that fire out:mad2:

 

[ak diesel driver]

I'm thinking of putting a rubber spacer between the fm and the pipe and then a large hose clamp around the whole thing. Shouldn't pump much fuel cause the engine will die pretty quickly

 

[Turbine Doc]

Please change that piece of tubing to a flexible hose before it fails. At certain rpms, that setup will act as a tuning fork for engine vibration and cause a failure. That is going to be a lot of fuel blowing around on a hot engine. Personally, I'd mount a sending unit down on the frame in front of lift pump on a short adapter piece. Any fuel leak failure will only be out on the road. An added plus is if you have a failure down there in that location, you can then do some awsome smoky burnouts for your Dodge/Cummins friends.

If this was directed at me, this was/is a temporary set up not permanent

Thanks I'm well versed in cyclic fatigue avoidance, but it is good advise to take note of :thumbsup:

My filter mgr is no longer on the engine either it is currently mounted in front of my master cylinder and flex line to & from the mgr, just brass fittings for the pressure sensor tap and hose barb connection that allow for off engine mounting.

 

[SnowDrift]

I'm thinking of putting a rubber spacer between the fm and the pipe and then a large hose clamp around the whole thing. Shouldn't pump much fuel cause the engine will die pretty quickly

The bleeder line got a crack in it on mine a few years back and was spraying a strong stream right into the alternator. The engine never quit, but the fuel was smoking a LOT and it appeared I had an underhood fire. Had it been on the turbo side, I may not have been so fortunate.

Nice setup. I need to do this, now that I'm running more than zero psi fuel pressure. Where did you mount your gauge?

 

[ak diesel driver]

haven't mounted the guage yet. I'm busy enough right now that the only reason I did this was cause of the IP change.

 

[Acesneights1]

A reminder that every truck should have a fire extinguisher.