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filter fuel tap or "T" on line to IP?

ak diesel driver

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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Just wanting some opinions on how I should do my fuel pressure guage. I got a fuel pressure tap from Jamierayo and I am leaning towards that. I believe it will give me post filter pressure. My other option is to put a "T" in the line to the IP.
 

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well after examining the filter manager more closely I've come to the conclusion that the bleed screw would be prefilter. Too bad that would be a much cleaner install
 
Well this is what I finally did. I did a search and came up with a pic of TDs install and somewhat copied it. Fairly clean and gives me a place to mount the sending unit. Probably a little heavier than TDs hopefully vibrations won't crack the fittings.
 

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ak diesel driver said:
Well this is what I finally did. I did a search and came up with a pic of TDs install and somewhat copied it. Fairly clean and gives me a place to mount the sending unit. Probably a little heavier than TDs hopefully vibrations won't crack the fittings.
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Oooo, I like that.

Mount it on the firewall and vibration clearance issues are no more.

That's what I'm thinking about doing....
 
Diesel fuel and galvanized fittings do not go together. A chemical reaction will occur between the galvanized piping and the diesel fuel. The galvanizing will flake off and contaminate the diesel fuel. Only brass , SS or black iron should be used.
 
Turboman said:
Diesel fuel and galvanized fittings do not go together. A chemical reaction will occur between the galvanized piping and the diesel fuel. The galvanizing will flake off and contaminate the diesel fuel. Only brass , SS or black iron should be used.
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And the only thing to catch it would be the small screen on the inlet of the IP. If this is true, this is some pretty good info, that may have saved you hours of aggrivation down the road.
 
Well it's back together. New IP FTB and pressure guage tap installed. Had to redo the other one in the pic it wasn't tall enough to clear the upper. Only had 4-5 hrs in the IP change had a ton of time into the rest of it had the manifold in and out at least 10 times had to rearrange my dual OPSs. Had to redo the fuel pressure tap twice. Messed up the drivers side intake manifold gasket had to buy a new ones. Ended up making a new upper gasket from a cereal box (parts stores all closed). All I have left to do is timing. Even untimed it is way peppier and starts way easier. Oh and TD it will fit but it's real tight.
 

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Looks like a nice set up. Turboman, if that galvenized and fuel don't mix causing a chemical reaction statement is correct, that is very good input on your part. Thanks.
 
Ran across this:

Diesel fuel systems should never use galvanized fuel lines, fittings or fuel tanks. Condensation in the tanks and lines combines with the sulfur in diesel fuel to produce sulfuric acid. The zinc coating on galvanized lines or tanks reacts with the acid and flakes off to contaminate the fuel.
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If true, they just saved you a bunch of time, frustration and money pardner. That galvanized would have been after the filter and a straight shot to the IP and injectors....


Wonder if ULSD counts?
 
To the best of my knowledge its true. Years ago when you could buy galvanized gas cans they carried a warning on them to not use with diesel fuel due to galvanic flaking. Since most gas cans are now made of plastic, you don't see this warning. It has to do with the reaction between the zinc and the sulfur. Even low sulfur fuels still contain some sulphur. Better safe than to contaminate your fuel system.

From the Federal Regulations for Coast Guard fuel tanks:46 CFR § 182.440 Independent fuel tanks.(a) Materials and construction.TABLE 182.440(a)(1) footnotes"5 Gasoline fuel tanks constructed of iron or steel, which are less than 5 millimeter (0.1875) inch) thick, shall be galvanized inside and outside by the hot dip process. Tanks intended for use with diesel oil shall not be internally galvanized."Also, in 46 CFR § 182.440, Paragraph (9):"(10) Iron or steel diesel fuel tanks must not be galvanized on the interior. Galvanizing, paint, or other suitable coating must be used to protect the outside of iron and steel diesel fuel tanks and the inside and outside of iron and steel gasoline fuel tanks."

Similarly, sulfur attacks copper, so use of copper & copper-rich alloys is prohibited for diesel unless tin coated. Aluminum and aluminum-coated steel are allowed for diesel, as aluminum resists sulfur very well.Some info is from the Canadian boating regs, which are similar to (US) 46 CFR; maybe both use info from ABYC Standards for Small Craft H–24, Gasoline Fuel Systems, or ABYC Standards for Small Craft H–33, Diesel Fuel Systems.Also, "Every metallic fuel line: (a) shall be made of seamless annealed copper, nickel-copper, or copper-nickel; (b) shall have a minimum wall thickness of 0.75 mm (1/32 in); and(c) shall be galvanically protected from the structure in aluminum hulls."Of these, only nickel-copper can be used for diesel fuel lines on boats.
 
Turboman said:
To the best of my knowledge its true. Years ago when you could buy galvanized gas cans they carried a warning on them to not use with diesel fuel due to galvanic flaking. Since most gas cans are now made of plastic, you don't see this warning. It has to do with the reaction between the zinc and the sulfur. Even low sulfur fuels still contain some sulphur. Better safe than to contaminate your fuel system.

From the Federal Regulations for Coast Guard fuel tanks:46 CFR § 182.440 Independent fuel tanks.(a) Materials and construction.TABLE 182.440(a)(1) footnotes"5 Gasoline fuel tanks constructed of iron or steel, which are less than 5 millimeter (0.1875) inch) thick, shall be galvanized inside and outside by the hot dip process. Tanks intended for use with diesel oil shall not be internally galvanized."Also, in 46 CFR § 182.440, Paragraph (9):"(10) Iron or steel diesel fuel tanks must not be galvanized on the interior. Galvanizing, paint, or other suitable coating must be used to protect the outside of iron and steel diesel fuel tanks and the inside and outside of iron and steel gasoline fuel tanks."

Similarly, sulfur attacks copper, so use of copper & copper-rich alloys is prohibited for diesel unless tin coated. Aluminum and aluminum-coated steel are allowed for diesel, as aluminum resists sulfur very well.Some info is from the Canadian boating regs, which are similar to (US) 46 CFR; maybe both use info from ABYC Standards for Small Craft H–24, Gasoline Fuel Systems, or ABYC Standards for Small Craft H–33, Diesel Fuel Systems.Also, "Every metallic fuel line: (a) shall be made of seamless annealed copper, nickel-copper, or copper-nickel; (b) shall have a minimum wall thickness of 0.75 mm (1/32 in); and(c) shall be galvanically protected from the structure in aluminum hulls."Of these, only nickel-copper can be used for diesel fuel lines on boats.
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I would'nt get to paranoid,nuttin wrong with using copper or brass for diesel fuel fittings.
 
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