Fair amount of oil in upper intake

[Ratman]

Well, first of all, I'm not going to "recommend" that anyone vent their CDR, -simply because it is without a doubt part of the emissions control system.

I don't have pictures yet, -still at work (at work but not working at the moment) :wink5:

I'll try to get a picture up tonight though.

I know of several 6.5 guys around my neck of the woods that have theirs vented and have had no issues. One fella has had his vented for well over 100k. He runs two passenger-side valve covers and two breathers with hoses and filters.

Now like I said, -I'm sure I'll take a beating, -since a lot of guys insist that the slight amount of vacuum that is present at the turbo inlet is critical to the crankcase evacuating properly.

If the ever so slight amount of vacuum present at the turbo inlet is going to "make or break" the way the crankcase evac system works, and the well-being of the engine, -we have a serious problem on our hands folks (strictly my opinion).

Furthermore, many high-mile engines "huff" pretty good, -I know my 200k engine did, -and man was it messy. I took the hose off the CDR on the original engine, stuck a K&N on the end of the hose, -and routed it to a coffee can to catch the goop. Every time I did an oil change, -the can and filter got cleaned.

For the guys running ATA intercoolers, the oil vapor mess even becomes more of an issue with skunking up the entire intercooler loop.

Right now, my new engine doesn't make enough blowby to warrant a catch can, -so it's just a hose and a filter on the end.

Strictly my opinions of course.....

 

[Ratman]

Well, here are the pictures I promised.





Yes, it is a big filter.

I am a machinist by trade, -hence the adapter I made from PVC. For the non-machinist, I recommend visiting the PVC/ABS section at Home Depot. A spigot bushing (slip x NPT) and a threaded hose nipple would likely do the trick if you want to run a big filter and adapt to a 1" hose.

This setup has worked excellent for me, however, use at your own risk.

 

[Slim Shady]

I have vented my crankcase to the atmosphere since brand new, no problems as of yet, 30,000 miles and still going.

 

[jbsaxman]

I know it's completely off topic, but I love it:

"NO MORE DS4, NO MORE PMD'S! I RELOCATED MY PMD TO THE TRASHCAN!"

 

[Suburban K2500]

Well, whether you try it or not, this sounds very good to me! After installing AFE intake the factory hose ripped, I can't seem to find a hose that will not kink??

Marc

 

[Acesneights1]

My concern was that by not having it hooked up will gasses build up in the motor and sludge it? This reminds me of the blower drains I had to put on my old detriots. Use to leave puddles of sludge. Had to rig cans under it.

 

[Suburban K2500]

Like the 2 pass. valve cover idea.

 

[Ratman]

I know it's completely off topic, but I love it:

"NO MORE DS4, NO MORE PMD'S! I RELOCATED MY PMD TO THE TRASHCAN!"

Jake, -pretty soon you'll be able to put that in your signature too!!

I gotta say, I'm lovin' the DB2, -it kicks.

 

[jbsaxman]

Yes. I will be doing the same conversion, I think when I rebuild my motor. Might as well when I have her out of the truck.

*excited*

 

[Ratman]

My concern was that by not having it hooked up will gasses build up in the motor and sludge it? This reminds me of the blower drains I had to put on my old detriots. Use to leave puddles of sludge. Had to rig cans under it.

Aces, -I totally agree with your concern, -but I don't think sludge is an issue, -particularly with any of us, -since we are all maintenance freaks and keep our oil changed.

The milkshake-looking goop that forms at the end(s) of the PCV hoses is a result of the oil vapor mixing with water vapor. It is perfectly normal for any cast-iron engine to sweat, -and that's why everyone "in the know" always preaches about making sure you avoid short trips, -and to get out on the freeway once in a while to get the oil good and hot (to steam off any water that happens to be in the crankcase).

So, the small amount of "goop" that forms is not abnormal, -particularly where I live (where the climate is moist for most of the year). A catch can is a good idea if the engine has a lot of blowby, -I mean, you don't want that crap all over the place, -and you surely don't want it on the ground.

I'll eventually end up using a catch can again, -but at the moment I'm spoiled by a fresh engine that has just a baby's-breath of blowby when hot, -so for now, the can isn't needed.

Slim's setup has surely been put through its paces, -more evidence that running skunky oil vapor back through your turbo or intercooler is really not necessary (or desired).

Again, just my opinion.

 

[bison]

There was a discussion a few weeks ago on the 'place' as wel about this CDR issue, things got heated a wee little bit. IMO a cdr works fine [ well mostly] It is a very 'nobel' invention,like the rubber tired wheel.Buttt on a higher miler things dont work so wel as many know,oily intake,using oil,dipstick comes up and makes a dirty mess there as well.even a new CDR wont solve it cause it was not designed for exess blowby.it was designed for emmision control only. one thing i noted upon removing the valves on my rebuild was that there was a thick layer of oily dirt buildup on the intake valves that on some was broke lose and joined the combustion process,thereby pitting the pistons involved . O what a joy to have that CDR.

I also piped the CDR to the admosfeer on my Wife's truck and it has run like that for 30.000 km so far. oil use almost disapeared, the dipstick stays put.
the intake is clean and dry. sure it steams a bit under there,but before it was steaming from the tailpipe,so whats the diff.I must have saved 60 ltr of oil since, now that i call progress.the mill purrs like a kitten and seems quite happy to breathe clean air.this engine has now over 330.000 km on it.

Now an EGR is another of these hairbrained designs that defy logic, but nobody seems to oppose getting rid of that contraption.

being a "concerned" citizen, on the rebuild i am working on now i have made a drain pipe into the oilpan to accept a oilreturn hose from a so called cranckcase seperator valve,that will do the same thing as a CDR exept it will catch the oil and return it to the pan.We'll see how that works.

 

[Slim Shady]

I ran a piece of heater hose from the CDR to the left frame of the truck and terminated the CDR vapors inside the frame rail. Makes for good rust protection, and the oil that does drip, drips off right at the door pillar location, so that a catch pan is easy. The oil is minimal just enough to wet the frame a little.

I couldn't see trashing my brand new engine rebuild turbo and intercooler with oil vapor, SOoooooo I vented the crank case to the atmosphere and have been pleased, no oil in the intake, no dirty intake valves, and no dirty intercooler or turbo vanes. :hurray:

 

[chrisk1500]

So once you guys vent your CDR, what are you using to plug the hole in the intake elbow?

I am going to be venting mine too....no sense in blasting the IC with a fine oil mist...

 

[Slim Shady]

So once you guys vent your CDR, what are you using to plug the hole in the intake elbow?

I am going to be venting mine too....no sense in blasting the IC with a fine oil mist...

I turned a small piece of aluminum on my lathe for a plug that preses into the rubber factory air tube. I left the CDR on and just vented the CDR outlet to the left frame.:biggrin5:

 

[bison]

My concern was that by not having it hooked up will gasses build up in the motor and sludge it? This reminds me of the blower drains I had to put on my old detriots. Use to leave puddles of sludge. Had to rig cans under it.

As the airbox on these old 2 stroke diesels is always presurized by the blower,oil coming out of the airbox drains are most likely due to leaking blower seals and not blowby

 

[Ratman]

It's nice to know that some can "see the light" on this subject............

 

[bison]

Well, here are the pictures I promised.

View attachment 2203

View attachment 2204

Yes, it is a big filter.

I am a machinist by trade, -hence the adapter I made from PVC. For the non-machinist, I recommend visiting the PVC/ABS section at Home Depot. A spigot bushing (slip x NPT) and a threaded hose nipple would likely do the trick if you want to run a big filter and adapt to a 1" hose.

This setup has worked excellent for me, however, use at your own risk.

Ratman, what is that filter gonna acomplish

 

[bison]

So once you guys vent your CDR, what are you using to plug the hole in the intake elbow?

I am going to be venting mine too....no sense in blasting the IC with a fine oil mist...

i just pushed a plastic hydr plug in the the hole.i left the CDR on the valve cover,it was stuck open.

 

[Ratman]

Ratman, what is that filter gonna acomplish

Bison, that filter is there to prevent any contaminants from being drawn back into the crankcase (since the crankcase breather inhales and exhales).

The cotton gauze filters also do a fairly good job of catching some of the oil vapor (making less visible smoke at the end of the hose).

The only reasons really.

A plain hose would work too, -the filter just makes me more warm and fuzzy (regarding dirt and dust).

As a result of feeling warm and fuzzy about the filter on the end of my CDR hose, I have been sleeping better at night and have had more energy during the days at work. Because of my increased energy and productivity at work, my boss is going to increase my pay by 50% and let me only work 3 days a week. :icon_bs::cornut:

 

[jbsaxman]

Damn, I'll get right out and do that to my rig!



Actually, the plan today is to put the fitting on.