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Eye connectors

Here is a random photo from the innerweb. the return line you want to use the clear line at is the black rubber one shown here that is in an upside down "U" shape. it goes from the top center of the IP to a steel line that reaches across to each side of the engine connecting all the little hoses on the injectors. it's a 1/4" hose that is maybe 5" long. one one in this photo has one of the squeeze clamps moved up almost in the middle of the hose.

1692756721310.jpeg
 
How the intake is bolted on the engine in the photo above is how you want to be at before trying to start the engine looking for leaks from the steel injector lines. you can use a flashlight to peek up under the intake and see any leaks. the large opening on the intake will allow you to use a board to choke the engine and shut it down in case it tries to go "balls to the wall" full throttle and run away!

If you try to start the engine without the lower intake installed and there happens to be a leak, the engine will suck in the fuel spraying from the leak and well... you know what happens and can't stop it with the intake off from the heads!
 
You folks on this forum are great thanks…A picture is worth 1000 words..now I have an idea how some of this engine goes back together and the line now I know…no I am not planning on starting the engine without the intake but I was thinking if I run the injector fuel line to the ip and not starting it just jumping the fuse box and pumping fuel and bleeding each injector would that be a good idea…just in case I can only put temporary back together for winter
 
to bleed out the steel line to the injectors, the engine has to be cranking (IP has to be turning by the timing chain). the lift pump will only bleed the hoses out up to the IP. having the intake installed and leave the line nuts loose on each injector so it will bleed out air at the injectors is the best way. after using the LP to bleed out the supply hoses, have a board ready, then crank it over a bit. keep looking for fuel the start coming out at the injectors.

just remember not to over heat the starter. don't crank it more than 30 seconds at a time, let it rest a couple minutes and go again. as long at it all goes well. not electric issues preventing the IP from pushing fuel to the injectors, you should have fuel at all 8 of them in maybe two sessions of cranking.

tighten up all the line nuts to each injector and see if it starts up and runs. it might stumble for a second or two, but should pick right up and run.
 
This might also help you with the injector line install... it was sent to me by @Paveltolz helping me with an issue I had on my truck this past weekend.
 

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There's a good picture here someplace that shows torque specs, tightening procedure and which holes need sealant on the intake installation

I couldn't find it in a search. I found it on my phone, but can't get it to upload

Phttps://fuel-line.com/collections/fuel-line/products/1-4-fast-flow-fuel-line-1?variant=506622081
 
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Chris posted an attachment showing all the torque specs in another thread. Here's a link to that thread post. the attachment shows a lot of info.

Valve Rocker Torque Specs?

Are the shaft bolts the two holding the valve rockers down? Valve Cover/Rocker Arm/Hyd Lifters: Cover Bolts--20 (27) Shaft Bolts--40 (55) Guide Plate Bolts--18 (26)
www.thetruckstop.us
 
Thanks I got the specs and the link for the tubing but can’t seem to find anything on sealant ..and the intake bolt info saved to files I really needed that because when I got the truck intake,exhaust,and cross over were just mocked up with a couple of bolts holding each in there place, cross over only has one side hooked up…I tightened fuel lines on the ip and left the injectors loose to bleed them sacrificed a box end 12 point to make a line wrench only thing I didn’t try the lower ones cause I already spent hours tightening them yesterday but seemed to help on the ones I had left (sacrificed a few wrenches for working on the panhead in the past) so here’s the kicker another question I’m a little gun shy about the runaway diesel thing since I don’t have coolant,turbo, and exhaust on, and intake only snugged up and missing a few bolts..so when I got the engine unsiezed I used a bump start button to turn the engine without ignition wire hooked up to solenoid (wasn’t connected anyway) can I use the bump start to turn the engine to bleed the injectors without risking starting? Sorry for the long post taking a beer break…it’s hot and humid out there.
 

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no don't do pull the glow plugs. yet anyway.

You'll need to get all the bolts on the lower intake tightened down. I also see in your pic one of your PCM ground eyelets not connected along with a couple for the IP. don't worry about the two connectors that go to the upper intake. leaving the turbo and exhaust off is fine to crank and bleed the injectors. once it fires up it will just be a little noisy lol. Just be sure to plug off the oil feed line that goes to the turbo else you will have engine oil spraying all over. if enough oil gets into the intake while trying to start it, it can run and run away on you! if you can't plug it, you can possibly strap it so the end is secured in the opening of the oil fill cap or the open grommet of the valve cover, or even to the turbo oil drain pipe. Just make it so the oil going out goes right back into the engine.

having the thermostat crossover removed, as long as there is no coolant or water in the block where the water pump can make a gusher over the engine will be fine just don't run it very long.

you mentioned the engine was seized? what caused this?

Bleed the injector lines after you have the lower intake bolted and tightened down. get you a flat board or something flat and large enough that can sit flat over the opening on the lower intake, just have it ready in case it goes full throttle. it also needs to be stout enough that it's not gonna get sucked in. a clipboard is too thin. with all the wires connected to the IP. make sure you trigger the lift pump and you should start seeing fuel begin to flow out of the IP in the clear line you installed. once you have fuel there, you can start cranking. crank it for about 15-30 seconds then let the starter rest. keep watching the steel line at the injectors looking for fuel to start seeping out where the nuts are. depending on how loose they are, you won't see any spray or streams. as long as you see them get wet and run over the injector you have fuel.

stop and tighten up all the line nuts at each injector, say a prayer, and holler "Fire in the Hole" the engine should start up.
 
Too funny…I’m missing a few bolts on intake…is that okay….when I bought the truck it was seized but I didn’t know it.. this is the sales pitch
Description


2wd ran last year, I bought a newer truck and don't drive this one any more, had new head gaskets and heads redone about 1000 miles before parked I am the 2nd owner of it clean title bring your own batteries if you would like to try to start it I haven't tried in about a year, has fresh tires all the way around 4" exhaust and a tune, turbo was also new. 6.5 turbo diesel, have a few spare pmds to go along with it only 160k miles ask for any pictures or information…. It was the kids truck and I believed him he even let me take a picture of his drivers license…supposedly he was a diesel mechanic…stupid me thinks I can fix anything mechanical but I realize without the help of folks like you and others I would be lost
 
the issues I see are it belonged to a kid and it has a tune. I wonder what it's tuned for.....

how badly was it locked. as in were you able to rotate it at the crank with a bar? if it's just been sitting and got surface rust in the cylinders it might be ok but if coolant was in the cylinders, you might have other issues once you get it running.

how many bolts are you missing on the lower intake? I would recommend taking a sample bolt down to the hardware store and get the ones missing. there are two lengths used. the longer ones towards the middle and the shorter ones further out. Two things you don't want to happen here.... missing bolts on the intake can allow it to leak air between the gasket surface. if there is a fuel leak under the intake, fuel can get sucked in (high idle or run away) if the missing bolts thread into a water passage or intake/exhaust passage or even an oil passage in the head, that will get into the intake. the three things you don't want getting sucked in are coolant, oil, and fuel. any of those can cause disaster.
 
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