Expanded bolt hole on top of driver side shock tower 1997 GMC 3500 - How do I fix?

[DocForker]

I need to fix this bolt hole on the bolt on the driver side shock tower - it rattles as I drive. This is a new truck to me. What are options to fix this? The tower is welded to the frame, so it doesn't seem like I can just buy a new one. Can washers be welded on both the inside and outside on both time?

 

[btfarm]

I would get some thick washers and weld them on the outside surfaces as my first thought.

Sent from my SCH-I535

 

[ak diesel driver]

You can also get a kit with some carbon chunks that you can make the right size for the hole and then weld it up, the weld won't stick to the carbon.

 

[Will L.]

Welcome to The Truck Stop.

I would skip the inside, as the width clearance for the bushings when you put in new shocks will be a problem if you get it too narrow. Welding to the outside is the answer. If using washers, use 2 on each side to get thicker material for the load. Otherwise if you can find a scrap piece of steel that is 1/8" thick, drill the correct size hole first, then weld in place you'll be good.

*Disconnect the battery before welding to the truck, it's rare but on occasion electronics get toasty from welding if energized.

 

[ak diesel driver]

You'll need a longer bushing if it's not welded up flush on the inside

 

[bison]

I would drill or file the holes a bit bigger and make 2 bushings with a step on it from a thick wall piece of tubing or a nut drilled to size that will go flush with the inside, then install the shock and weld the bushings to the brackets.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Probably the best advice^^^

 

[DocForker]

So the carbon would be the same size as the bolt and you would just fill in the gap with the welding material? Then pull out the carbon and be left with a hole for the bolt? Is the welding material the correct hardness, or would drilling out and then putting in a bushing be better?

 

[DocForker]

Can you point me to pictures of what this bushing would look like? It seems like at the top of the installed shock there is lots of free-play for the shock to slide back and forth.

 

[DocForker]

I would drill or file the holes a bit bigger and make 2 bushings with a step on it from a thick wall piece of tubing or a nut drilled to size that will go flush with the inside, then install the shock and weld the bushings to the brackets.

If I was to drill out a nut - would I have to cut the hole in the bracket to fit the nut, or I could just overdrill the hole and then fill in the space with the weld?

Thanks everyone for your advice - I now need to find a shop in the Seattle area than can do this welding. Anyone know of any Seattle area suspension specialists that could do this, or is there some other type of shop that would do this welding?

Thanks & much appreciated,
Tolli

 

[bison]

It should look something like this

 

[bison]

I need to fix this bolt hole on the bolt on the driver side shock tower - it rattles as I drive. This is a new truck to me. What are options to fix this? The tower is welded to the frame, so it doesn't seem like I can just buy a new one. Can washers be welded on both the inside and outside on both time?

Looking at your pics again.
it looks like you have the wrong shock in there.
Stock shocks have a bushing incorporated in the rubber insert, that bushing is as long as the inside width of the bracket.The bolt clamps the whole shebang solid
It appears you don't have that bushing there

 

[Will L.]

Yep, good catch! That's why it did that- all the free play, no way to hold it tight.

Doc- check the other side, probably starting the same thing. Looks like some Bilstiens are in order. If you have to wait on new shocks for the $ train, get some washers in there to take up the space after you weld it, until you can get the correct shocks. tightening the mounting bolt should slightly compress the rubber bushing.

 

[DocForker]

Yep, good catch! That's why it did that- all the free play, no way to hold it tight.

Doc- check the other side, probably starting the same thing. Looks like some Bilstiens are in order. If you have to wait on new shocks for the $ train, get some washers in there to take up the space after you weld it, until you can get the correct shocks. tightening the mounting bolt should slightly compress the rubber bushing.

Awesome - I'll pack it with some washers, inside and out to center it, and maybe even fill the elongated hole with some jbweld and then crank the bolt town - then go look for some PROPER shocks and have it welded up. What kind of shop can weld, probably a specialty or off-road, not your standard Midas, firestone, les Schwab...? How come no coil spring on these 3500?

 

[Will L.]

NO do not put jbweld on that! The jbweld will be a nightmare to clean out before the real welding can take place. I have nothing against jbweld, it has it's place, but this is not it. It will not hold and will add 3-4 times the labor costs to the real welding.

It has been running that way for some time. If you are going to take it to a shop in the next 500 miles worth of driving, just leave it alone and drive it to the shop. If you are going to drive it for a little longer than that, then add the washers and tighten it up until you get it to the shop.

Look for a fabrication shop, hot rod custom shop, NTEA certified truck equipment shop, call welding shops in the area and ask for a shop that will do suspension repair/ modification. You are correct to stay away from Midas, Firestone, etc.

 

[SnowDrift]

How come no coil spring on these 3500?

Torsion bars take the place of a coil spring. Look for the long bar running from your lower control arm, toward the rear. This is your front "spring".