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Excessive Smoke after extended Idle???

Well... spoke to a Stanadyne shop, and good news its not the injectors or the turbo. Bad news is it is the IP and timing chain. He says that the plunger is shot in the pump and that it is running on retarded time. He advised a rebuild and a new timing chain to be installed. He said I could get along if I advanced the timing by three marks toward the driver side but that it isn't a permanent fix. How hard is it to replace the timing chain?
 
So its probably not blue smoke then?
Timing chain just depends on you mechanical skills, just takes time, but not to difficult.
 
zielinski.family said:
Well... spoke to a Stanadyne shop, and good news its not the injectors or the turbo. Bad news is it is the IP and timing chain. He says that the plunger is shot in the pump and that it is running on retarded time. He advised a rebuild and a new timing chain to be installed. He said I could get along if I advanced the timing by three marks toward the driver side but that it isn't a permanent fix. How hard is it to replace the timing chain?
Click to expand...

You spoke to them, or they checked the truck out? If they havent tested anything I wouldnt necessarily trust their diagnosis. The timing chain replacement would be like $400 labor + parts, and their rebuild of an IP is probably $700 + $300 labor installation. For them to set your injectors is like $120 if you bring in nozzles, so they are betting on a bad IP.
 
buddy, you are right. He didn't look at the truck but was able to tell exactly what it was doing. He said that the plunger in the Pump is wore out from extended use. He would charge around $300 - $500 to rebuild, but I would take off and take it to him. I can't justify paying another to do what I can. I have looked around and found new pumps for around $600. Don't know if it is better to do a rebuild or buy an new pump. If I had him rebuild it then I could do the FTB mod.
 
To my knowlege there are no "new" pumps they are used or rebuilt. So, find a rebuilder you trust. On the 4911 you want to make sure they upgrade the ip with the new rotor. Talk to a IP shop and they can tell you more.
Even before I did all that I would put new injectors in first, might solve the problem and it sounds like you are planning to do that anyway, so do it first.
 
I would try advancing the IP like he said and see if it helps. Quicker than pulling 8 injectors.
 
NVW said:
I would try advancing the IP like he said and see if it helps. Quicker than pulling 8 injectors.
Click to expand...

X2!
Then look at pulling the front of the engine down for a chain. It is buried deep.
All accessories have to come off. Water pump comes off, HB comes off... And I forget how much more you have to rip off or don't to get to the chain.
 
Did some work under hood today. The timing marks on the pump didn't line up. So I loosened the pump and rotated slightly toward drivers side. Took off intake plenum and cleaned inspected it. There was a little oil residue so I cleaned it all out including the turbo. When I started it up, it started faster and smoother than it ever has since I owned it!!! Took it for a drive and surprise surprise no clouds of smoke. When I got on it from dead stop got little black smoke but not a huge cloud. Sounds the same as it always has.
 
Wow. I have never seen this truck start and level out this fast since I have owned it. It used to sputtered a little and smoke a whole lot on start up. I just figured the pump was turned up and that it was causing excessive fueling. I wish I would have known sooner I would have adjusted the timing earlier. Makes me wander what else I am not privy to?
 
Now bring the truck up to 45 MPH and enough throttle to keep it at 45 MPH. Note the diesel clatter. Add some throttle, heat to the precups, and the clatter should quiet down. This is when you have the timing spot on for the 1993 set by ear. Marks are a guideline and a word chain will retard the timing some as well as a worn pump.

Do you get any smoke during the Cold advance warm up phase? Check the cold advance system out as the switch in the coolant crossover is a common failure point. Cold engine should have the pink wire and the other wire to the IP at +12v with ign on. Pink wire is the shut off wire and the other wire is cold advance and also splits off for the high idle solenoid. This switch turns off and doesn't come back on as the engine should never fall below 140 degrees running.
 
This is an old thread, but I am still having some issues and need some help. I have had the injection pump rebuilt, and the new injectors tested. The truck runs awesome. however, this is what it is doing. When the motor has been warmed up and under normal driving conditions and I shut it off for a few minutes and restart. The truck bellows out a bluish white smoke then clears up after a few minutes. It doesn't smoke when idling just when I take off driving again. There is no noticeable noise or power loss. It runs and sounds the same just the smoke. After it clears up it doesn't smoke as long as I don't shut it off. If I do then it smokes. When it clears up, I can get it to puff a little black smoke. Any ideas what could be causing this?
 
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