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Engine Stall with Codes

C

cdquirkjr

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Location
Seattle,WA
Hello,

Need some help for my 96 Suburban. I bought it last year and it has been nothing but trouble. I got it tow my small trailer and boat and snow vehicle in the winter. I have used this forum to learn about it and guide upgrades and fixes.

So far:

Heath PMD
Heath Turbo Controller
Heath Tune
Heath Lift Pump
New glow plugs
New injector
Dorman Fuel Sender
New turn signal switch arm
Reseal Fuel Filter Manager
Braided fuel line to IP
New diesel fuel cap
New thermostats and coolant flush
New oil cooler lines

All work done by Pacific Diesel in Monroe WA – great guys and do good work.

According to receipts previous owner replaced IP in 2012

I thought it was running pretty good. Drove it all last weekend with out an issue. Loaded up Friday night to head across I90 from Seattle to cabin on the other side. Right about half way just shy of Snoqualmie pass it chugged and died - no check engine light. Pulled over started right back up. Few more miles and same thing. This time check engine light came on with codes P0117, P0182, P0251, P0370

Left my blue-tooth ODB plugged in and wife watched gauges on phone. Coolant temp was fine then spiked to ~400. Dash gauge never left 180. I am assuming ECU thought engine was over heating and shut it down.

So after a 2 hour wait for a tow back home we left the next morning in wife’s car to cabin, Needless to say she is not very happy and “sell it” was mentioned in the “discussion” that ensued. I really want to keep it, but I need it to be reliable. Don't want to be stuck on a mountain road. AAA has cut me off.

This is screaming electrical problem. I am thinking ground to ECU or ECU connector, or problem in wiring harness. I cleaned most of the grounds and battery cable. Could by ECU be faulty? When we get back I will go through rest of the grounds.

Any other tips would be helpful.

Daniel
 
P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low Input
P0182 Fuel Temperature Sensor "A" Circuit Low Input
P0251 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control "A"
P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution Signal "A"

If all grounds are good, and electrical connections are good, there is a missing clue somewhere.

You said nothing but trouble, what else is going on, anything that might be related? Where did you mount the pmd, and what happened when you swapped in your spare (assuming Heath explained the necessity of carrying a spare)?

In time you will learn to avoid Dorman. Hopefully AC Delco thermostat (they have far lower failure rate and better flow).
 
Clean the fuses and see if you can monitor pcm power when the problem happens. Thinking possible ign switch issue

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk
 
Thanks - I am going to start with grounds. Yes used AC Delco thermostats. Have the original PMD as spare. Mounted the new one on the skid plate. No more clues yet other than the weird coolant temp reading.
 
I just had some time to look at this.

Cleaned the ECM fuses - they were not to bad but not shinny clean
Cleaned the Frame ground on the passenger side by the wheel well - It was pretty dirty

I need to check the grounds on the rear of the transmission tube. Of course they are under the mounting bracket. Any advise on how to remove those? Do I just wrestle the tube out? I was half tempted to cut the grounds and crimp on some wire and re-ground on another stud.

Starts and idles great, but always did. I have to move a couch for my daughter tonight so I will drive it across town.

I may order another PMD and have it mounted and ready to go.
 
I just lifted the tube up until I got the wires off the stud, then pushed the tube down.
 
Well I was optimistic got to my daughters house truck ran great. On the way home it stalled again no codes. Pulled over luckily there was a street parking spot right off the street. I idled for a while and is stalled again. Just died no codes this died. Had my wife pick me up and will go get it in the morning and hope it makes it home.

One ground left to clean. I am gonna call Heath and check on PMD.
 
2 new clues

I went to pick up the truck this morning and bring it home. No WTS light when I turned the ignition switch. I waited for the lift pump to finish cycling and it fired right up. Then the WTS came on for the second time.

I am not sure what the normal behavior is for these things. When I first start it should it idle at 900 rpm until it warms up? Mine does not. It idles at 650-700 rpm. I did remove the ECT connector and it idled at 900 rpm.

I have an ignition switch and ect sensor on order. I will get those in this week. Today I will work on the ground by the transmission tube, but the tube is being stubborn and doesn't want to lift up.
 
I replaced the ECT and removed the optical sensor filter, starts strong, idles smooth, drove it around neighborhood, no problem. Headed to father-in-laws Saturday and 25 miles down the road it stalled again. I was monitoring ECT and Air Intake Temp. Both spiked to the same value of 300 when engine died.

I still have to clean the grounds on the rear intake manifold. The transmission dipstick tube does not want to budge. I checked from the ground on IP to battery and got dead short.

I did not replace the ignition switch yet - jiggled all the wires, key, and beat on steering column. No effect.

Bought a spare new PMD with new harness mounted and ready to go. Switched over and no difference.

Going to clean all fuses and grounds again, trouble shoot fuel and electrical, replace OPS

Batteries and terminals are clean and tight (Batteries are 1.5 years old matched pair)

Any good troubleshooting references would be helpful.
 
Need More Ideas

ak diesel driver said:
I'd start by cleaning those grounds on the back of the manifold. they are the ground for the PCM
Click to expand...

I couldn't get the dipstick tube to budge but I did get the nut backed off enough to get in there with a dremal and cleaned the ground and sprayed some electrical cleaner. Tightened everything back up and was optimistic. No smoke on start up, steady even idle. Let it warm up and started driving around the block after about 30 minutes of run time it stalled while idling in front of my house. The only dash lights that came on where the battery and check gauges. Radio, fan, everything else still working just fine. Restarted just fine. Could here lift pump running. Another loop around the block and it stalled again. The frequency off stalling increased as I went around the block. Then finally got hard to start. I got back in the driveway and checked fuel from t-valve, nice solid flow clean diesel while engine running. I spilled some diesel on belt tensioner and belt slipped off. I just it down ASAP and called it a day.

I am going to call mechanic for ideas.

I am thinking ignition switch, but hate to shell out 100 bucks if no the problem. I beat on it, moved steering column up and down, giggled wires, etc, but could not duplicate the problem.

I am also going to put some clear hose on return line to check for air in fuel system. Any recommendation on a source for a short piece of clear diesel fuel line? What is the ID of the short piece of fuel line from the IP return?
 
1/4". My cheap hardware store clear tubing has been on there for years. You need to monitor the voltage going to the PCM to verify the ign switch as the problem.

Sent from my Studio 5.0s using Tapatalk
 
x2 on AK Driver comment. I didn't get a warm fuzzy on the description you used about the grounds at the dipstick- are you 100% the stud and all the rings are clean? If not -WARNING MAKING PEOPL MAD HERE- cut the wires relocate to a more accessible ground and make sure it is perfect. You loose the ground there and everything else is in vain.
 
the factory ground location is on a wet hole in the block. the next bolt forward is an intake bolt which is in a dry hole and less susceptible to corrosion issues
 
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