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Engine Mount Replacement

When I was working underneath my 95 I looked at the mounts & the rubber is old looking and has a lot of cracks. What's odd is I noticed fresh wrench marks on the nut's & bolt's on the mount's, don't know what they were trying to do but they sure didn't change the mount's.

Yeah I also would like to know how the Energy mount's are with transmitting vibration's.

Mark
 
I did mine a couple of years ago. I went with ones from the dealer. I didn't go with poly because about 10 years ago I had a suburban and replaced the body mounts with poly ones and the truck road rougher and noisier. So I figured with the vibration of the diesel the poly would transfer more of that to the chassis. I figure if I have to change them every 100K or so and have less engine vibration, I'll do that. It took me about an hour to do both but I have a lift and air tools. I think the reason I did that was because aftermarket they are the same part number as a gas engine and at the dealer they are a different part number.
 
I ran both styles of poly mounts that ES makes. The ones for the gasser clam shells will not fit in a diesel clamshell without cutting a 1/4" off of each end of them and a HUGE vise to compress them together. They vibrated HORRIBLY and made driving the BURB a real drag as it just shook so much at idle and buzzed going down the road. I used the smaller ones that most 6.5ers used and didn't like them either. They didn't transmit the vibrations at idle, but they gave me alot of engine movement as they were too loose in the clamshells. The aftermarket mounts you buy are the gasser models which are slightly different from the diesel clamshells. I'm currently running GM mounts with limiter blocks in them and am VERY happy with them even with the DMAX's torque.
 
Well, I tried to order GM mounts for the '93 (in signature) about two months ago and they came up with nothing. No longer serviced.

So I suppose I have to engineer and manufacture my own engine mounts now...:rolleyes5:
 
I got new engine mounts for my 1993 from the GM dealer Nov of 2009.

This job takes 2 people. Always block the engine in case the lift cyl fails. The mount bolts to the frame are best reached from the underside with a wrench while someone else has the air ratchet on top of the bolt. It can be made to fit. The passenger side is harder on the 4x4.

A pair of goggles will keep all the dirt rain out of your eyes doing the bottom job.

Do not forget to replace the transmission mount as well, it is just as shot as the engine mounts...

Price at the local parts shop was like $11.00 for the trans mount. This is almost too cheap to use....

I have a poly carrier bearing. It got rid of launch shudder but I get vibration at 65 MPH+ now. Can't balance the drive shaft well due to poly vs. rubber per the drive shaft shop.
 
The ones bk95td use look like they fit good, and I remember spending a lot of time on app sheets, but finding that the ones for 6.5s are not necessarily the same as the gassers, or the ones for the 454 vice the 350 or what not.

Are they different on 4WD vs 2WD? The shells are different but the same insert will fit.

Energy Suspensions catalogue list the 4WD option for 6.2/6.5 as 3.1152, only in common with the 454. but in the same 2WD truck the 454 uses 3.1121, like several the 350 options too. bk95td uses 3.1116 with success.

in some looking I think 3.1116 is what they call out for older 80s trucks with 4 bolts to the frame shells, and 3.1121 is called out for 3 bolts to the frame shells.

The catalogue says

"3.1152 Replaces the insert for G.M. 6.2L, 6.5L Diesel and 7.4L In many 1988-00 4WD Trucks/SUV’s. For O.E mount number 15659675 and 15732188."
 
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Good info. I kinda knew it was not just as easy as 'buying a pair of motor mounts'.

Just received a return email from Rock Auto stating that they will not accept a return (inferior non fitting chinese mounts) because it was purchased more than 30 days ago.

Oh gee wow, got me THERE:rolleyes5:....

Looks like Energy will be getting a call.
 
I'm not looking forward to doing mine. I'm 4x4 and I have big hands :mad2:

Is it possible to do both on a 4x4 WITHOUT dropping the front diff???

I think my drivers side mount has been broken for a few years now....my luck is surely overdue
 
mgray said:
I'm not looking forward to doing mine. I'm 4x4 and I have big hands :mad2:

Is it possible to do both on a 4x4 WITHOUT dropping the front diff???

I think my drivers side mount has been broken for a few years now....my luck is surely overdue
Click to expand...

I doubt your hands are bigger than mine, so yes it is possible to do them without dropping the diff out. An engine hoist is pretty much required, as well as a 15MM GEAR WRENCH, and a long flat 15MM wrench.
 
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