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Engine and trans oil cooler relocated.

I guess it depends if the blades look symmetrical like or if they have some swept outer edge. What did the mfg recommend?

Have you considered any baffle or scoop to help catch any air flowing while at speed? Maybe adjust them to have a slight angle. I wonder if a baffle behind them will encourage air to go through them instead of by them ????

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I have been looking at the same thing for my swap, I do know there is plenty of room to have them at about a 45* angle to help air flow ...
 
What I found out was common since. I did the trans cooler fan yesterday while the fan was dangling in the air it would move alot of air. Once I put it up next to the cooler it slowed down the air. This makes since though as the cooler is a resriction. I just did not think it would be reduced by half.
Anyway Will see how it go's over the next few weeks.
 
I am no expert but if the blades are reversible you might gain a bit reversing them. They look symetricay tipped but besides the pitch they look like they have some curvature like a wing. If the pitch isn't too great part of the air flow might be from wing or foil effect.

Looking forward to hearing ECT and AC are cool.
 
I'm considering using the area just behind the radiator support in front of the wheel housings and under batteries mounting coolers w/fans at the angle of the wheel housing then make ducting and a ram type intake to feel air to them at speed. The ram intake opening only needs to be the size equal to the open area of the coolers core which is commonly 1/3rd +- less.

This setup using Pro Comp Pro Control gauge will allow for fans on at slow stop & go or idle then shut them down at speed after they cool.
 
That should work. Would be nice to make a duct that funnels the hot air off the coolers through the wheel well, but would be hard to do and still offer stone/road debris protection.
 
Burning oil said:
That should work. Would be nice to make a duct that funnels the hot air off the coolers through the wheel well, but would be hard to do and still offer stone/road debris protection.
Click to expand...
That is a consideration however fender vents do help the heat escape easier, while mine are ugly as sin the tabs in front of them generate a vortis pulling the air out the fender at speed.
 
Yes!
Just got back from a 5000 mile test drive:) everything preformed perfectly.
With 195* stats I would run according to temp gauge anywhere from 180 at times to 220.
I drove the whole trip with my face on the temp gauge. It dictated my MPH speed.
Pulling some 8% grades the temp got to 200*. Coasting down it might go to 180*.
On average though it stayed right at 195-200* the whole time.
This is also with about 2500 to 3000#s in the bed in the form of a aerodynamic dragging camper full of gear though the desert and over the mountains (to grandmothers house we go).
 
Burning oil said:
Yes!
Just got back from a 5000 mile test drive:) everything preformed perfectly.
With 195* stats I would run according to temp gauge anywhere from 180 at times to 220.
I drove the whole trip with my face on the temp gauge. It dictated my MPH speed.
Pulling some 8% grades the temp got to 200*. Coasting down it might go to 180*.
On average though it stayed right at 195-200* the whole time.
This is also with about 2500 to 3000#s in the bed in the form of a aerodynamic dragging camper full of gear though the desert and over the mountains (to grandmothers house we go).
Click to expand...
Good first trip, did you track oil and trans temps too or?
 
Not engine oil temps, but trans yes.
Trans got to 200 one time on a long steep pull, was down in 3rd/unlocked most of that hill. Other than that it never even got over 120*.
The gearing in my axle is the first thing Im going to change. Years ago I swaped to 3:42 as I never tow and it was a highway queen.
The only problem I had on the whole trip was borderline lugging of the engine At 60 MPH i was turning 1250 RPM and it wanted to down shift so I had to stay above 65MPH or manually down shift. Speed limit was 70+ most of the trip anyway so not a problem until I hit a hill.
Im thinking of getting a complete pinion and ring gear assy set up for the truck as a spare and throwing the 4:10s back in when I need them. Then running 3:42 here on the flats. It wont take but 30 minutes to change the gears out once their set up and redip the VSSB.

Also with this gearing I never got into the boost. It ran 0psi and went to 5psi on a hard hill.
Averaged about 17MPG witch I think is great. I want to unload it and she how she does then. 3000#s with a camper can't be good for MPGs.
 
Burning oil said:
Not engine oil temps, but trans yes.
Trans got to 200 one time on a long steep pull, was down in 3rd/unlocked most of that hill. Other than that it never even got over 120*.
The gearing in my axle is the first thing Im going to change. Years ago I swaped to 3:42 as I never tow and it was a highway queen.
The only problem I had on the whole trip was borderline lugging of the engine At 60 MPH i was turning 1250 RPM and it wanted to down shift so I had to stay above 65MPH or manually down shift. Speed limit was 70+ most of the trip anyway so not a problem until I hit a hill.
Im thinking of getting a complete pinion and ring gear assy set up for the truck as a spare and throwing the 4:10s back in when I need them. Then running 3:42 here on the flats. It wont take but 30 minutes to change the gears out once their set up and redip the VSSB.

Also with this gearing I never got into the boost. It ran 0psi and went to 5psi on a hard hill.
Averaged about 17MPG witch I think is great. I want to unload it and she how she does then. 3000#s with a camper can't be good for MPGs.
Click to expand...
Sounds good, yes gears will help that turbo issue.
 
what RPM does it run locked up in direct (3rd)? if its low enough, just run in 3rd and then throw it in OD for the interstate.

I have allways wanted to try running 3.42s on the heavy pulling pickups, and do just that. Preferably run in 4th gear direct on the NV4500 under load, and save OD for running empty with the trailer. No one says you have to be topped out on gearing at the speed limit! ;) Gear it like a bullhauler, top gear is in the powerband at 80-95. :)

Did you also have an auxillary OD installed on this certain rig, or was it another?
 
Thats what I was doing 3rd direct w/OD unit engaged. Would turn about 1500-1600rpm then. Still to low to get into the boost when I need it. Im not sure 3:73 is low enough and 4:10 may be to much? Time to Google up the gear ratio calculator thingy.
 
With my stock drive train (automatic,4.10gears,stock tires) I'm running about 2600 rpm at 70.
 
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Looks like at 70 mph with 4.10 and 33" tall tire will put me at 2200rpm in overdrive. And just for fun double overdrive would be around 1760rpm.

That's probably pretty good all around, then when I hit the mountains again pull down to 3rd direct and engage OD unit, guessing that would put me at 2500ish rpm.

3:73 gears puts it at 1994rpm
 
When you need the power get the engine RPM up. Diesels unlike gas engines don't blow up when held just under redline going up a hill. The extra RPM also spins the water pump, oil pump, and fan faster to keep hotspots down. (And overall temps down. Including transmission temps as lugging in OD will even heat up manual transmissions.)

For any load or just quick around town I love the 4.10's.
 
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