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EGR delete and other questions

Well it's been about 200 miles since I spotted this thread and plugged off my vac line that feeds the EGR valve...

No codes and not 100% positive but dam sure seems like the thing runs smoother and less ping/rattle under light acceleration...maybe it's just my imagination???

Mucho Gracias for this little NO COST 2 minute tweak!!!

:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
The real benefit comes from hogging out the intake, you need to see the huge restriction in there to believe it. You can find new intakes on fleabay for less than $200.
 
Will do just have to run her until the weather lets up here a little, my truck is too long to fit in my heated garage :sad:

One more observation / question does the EGR valve being inservice help with cold start up? This may be to soon to tell but it seems I have to crank it just a tad longer not much in the AM for it to lite? Just a coincidence or is it real?
 
It might return hot air and unburnt fuel, could be real. But doesnt mean you need that. Good glows with proper glow time should still fire right up. Mine always did until my Autolite glos started going bad and now are about dead. Need to get these Duraterms in this weekend. I also extended the glo time in my PCM program, which I think really killed the "self regulating" Autolites. Dont buy Autolite.
 
Thanks Buddy, my glows & injectors both for all I know may very well be original OEM. It glows a good healthy length of time like 18 seconds and it normally fires after 2 revolutions, just seems to be taking an additional rev or 2 the last 2 am starts since I plugged off the EGR. Nothing big just an observation.

My ole' 7.3 got all the glows replaced last fall, it would only glow for about 5 sec, then stop...had 5 out of 8 shot. After replacing them, it's back to normal about 15~20 sec for am start.

Is the glow time on the 6.5 a good indication of the GP overall condition like with my 7.3?
 
Glow time is based on the temperature and battery voltage. To get 18 seconds it must be really cold or the battery is lower, which might also cause slight longer crank. The PCM reads the temp from the coolant sensor and the intake air temp to determine the glo time, taking the higher temp of the two to decide. And it looks in a table, comparing it to battery voltage, higher voltage less time it glows.
 
buddy said:
Glow time is based on the temperature and battery voltage. To get 18 seconds it must be really cold or the battery is lower, which might also cause slight longer crank. The PCM reads the temp from the coolant sensor and the intake air temp to determine the glo time, taking the higher temp of the two to decide. And it looks in a table, comparing it to battery voltage, higher voltage less time it glows.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that info, the 18 seconds may be an exaggeration guess, at 6am my old feeble brain might be playing tricks on me, especially when it's cold in the am. I normally run out there & lite it up & then go back in the house to get my go cup of coffee & let it run for a bit before I depart every morn. I keep it plugged in when it's below 20degF, it starts better plugged in...unless it's real cold.

I'm gonna change the glows for sure & a few other things...just hoping that I can nurse it along til spring :rolleyes5:

Ps only about 1200 more miles til it hits 200K :eek: so far so good :thumbsup:
 
Well I got my upper plenum hogged out today. It wasn't as dirty as I thought but there is certainly a lot of restriction there. Hogged it out, cleaned it up and went for a test drive. Not sure if there is anymore horsepower, but the turbo spools longer and the noise of the intake system seems louder. Like it is able to pump more air through which it is. Throttle response seems to be quicker as well. Sometimes I wonder what the car makers are thinking of with the way they design sh#t.
 
It helps keep the exhaust going out the exhaust were it belongs...

I did the same thing to my VW TDI, exhaust belongs in the exhaust pipe after it exits the head, not back in the intake manifold making a sooty chit mess.

FYI this mod to the 6.5 only works with OBD1 years 1994 & 95's without coding as long as you keep all the vacuum solenoids and hoses in place as described earlier in this post.

You can plug off the vac hose to the EGR on the OBD2 96 & newer years, but they will throw a code.

OBD1 & OBD2 both can have the ECM's updated so all the EGR chit can be removed to eliminate the codes.

As discussed earlier here in this post, the true benefit comes from removing the exhaust gases along with the intake restriction to allow a free path of air into the motor. Less restriction for the turbo to fight just helps reduce the compression ratio and that helps reduce not eliminate some of the heat.
 
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