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EGR delete and other questions

drocker

drocker

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I posted earlier that I thought my LP was going out. Test showed that it is working. I plan on doing the OPS mod soon. I am having hard start issues and was directed to test my ECT sensor. With the OHM meter I am getting a reading of 3.48 ohms. I would assume that the ECT is bad.

I figured that since I had the cover off and it will stay off that I would block the EGR by just plugging the vac lines. I hope this is correct since from what I read that on the 94 you can just plug the vac line. I will also be removing excess material in the upper intake when it warms up as well. Photos show before and after and the line I removed.
 

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Yep, you're correct with the EGR, but there's no need to block the valve on top of the intake. You only have to block the line at the solenoid.

Cu,
Sven
 
If there is only 3.48 ohms then your ECT is bad, and you checked the sensor itself? The PCM would believe the engine was on fire!

Are you sure it wasn't 3.48 kOhm? 3048 ohms. That would make sense as it would be about 70F.
 
^ It was 3.48 ohms with my meter set on 20k. This would be around 3480 ohms then. It's 32 degrees outside so I would imagine the water temp to be 32 degrees. From the table provided in the sticky I should see a reading of 9420 ohms.
 
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^ If your truck is a OBD I then yes. Just tested the sensor again and now it is reading 6.34 at 20k. So the reading is 6340 ohms. This is about right. So I guessing new glow plugs. I am the third owner and the first two owners kept all their receipts. I went through them and no sign of glow plug replacement. I guess I will get the bosch duraterms part # 80034.
 
drocker said:
^ It was 3.48 ohms with my meter set on 20k. This would be around 3480 ohms then. It's 32 degrees outside so I would imagine the water temp to be 32 degrees. From the table provided in the sticky I should see a reading of 9420 ohms.
Click to expand...
If you let the truck sit overnight and then go out and read the ohms of the IAT and ECT sensors, they should be pretty close to each other (resistance wise). Its a pretty good way to find out if one sensor is bad or not :).
 
I plugged my vacuum hose at the EGR valve for my 50 mile home ride home from work, no check engine or idiot lights. I pulled the EGR vac line off after I got home & plugged it at the solenoid...like in the picture.

Not sure if at 198+K on the odometer the EGR could still be moving but I feel better with it plugged off.

In the spring I'll pull the intake & either change it out with a non EGR intake or install the freeze plug & hog my old one out with my dremel tool.

Thanks again :thumbsup:
 
^ Yeah I am real curious to how dirty the upper and lower intake plenums will be. Cant wait for the weather to warm up so I can do this. Gasket is around $6 so it should be cheap to do. Not sure if I will plug the hole with a freeze plug or not.
 
Some pull the egr off and install a 050" steel plate with a gasket on each side of the plate. Gaskets are about $12 or $13 a piece. Then reinstall the EGR. Leave all the electrical hooked up and just cap the vacuum line like we did. Really know way to know for sure if it is staying open or closed. I do know that the egr is closed in its natural state. So unless its stuck open, then usually they stay closed.
 
drocker said:
^ Yeah I am real curious to how dirty the upper and lower intake plenums will be.
Click to expand...

Filthy, is what they will be, I used to clean mine about every 2 years, then finally swapped to F intakes, but F gaskets under the lower intakes will stop the soot, or frost plug in the tower will do the same.

If you want to clean the sooty goo from your lower intake you pretty much have to take it off anyhow, so may as well just get the F lower gaskets.
 
^ If the egr has no vacuum to it, can the intake plenums still get dirty with soot? If so then maybe I will have to install the lower F gaskets. Once the top plenum is removed, what is involved with removing the lower?
 
Thanks!

I have got to locate an F intake, that possibility of that thing being open leaking that chit back into the intake just does not make me comfortable. I want my motor to last for a while, can not imagine that recycling hot exhaust gases back into the intake can do anything to help longevity...
 
it gets really dirty in there. i had chunks after chunks of carbon in my intake manifold when i took it off. took me an hour with a toothbrush and brake cleaner to get all the carbon out.
 
with the combo of winter diesel and being away from the truck so long i cant really tell but im sure the truck was making a little bit more power. it was literally going to block the plenum in a few months if i had not gotten rid of it
 
Mine was actually not too dirty inside but once you see the huge space in the lower plenum taken up by the EGR and the way it and upper plenum block the airflow you will be amazed. It may take more than a dremel to hog it out, a good sized chunk of aluminum.
 
buddy said:
Mine was actually not too dirty inside but once you see the huge space in the lower plenum taken up by the EGR and the way it and upper plenum block the airflow you will be amazed. It may take more than a dremel to hog it out, a good sized chunk of aluminum.
Click to expand...


Buddy ...:thankyou2: there is always the dye grinder then clean up with the dremel...:thumbsup:
 
When I first started trouble shooting EGR DTC Codes, I discovered that the PO had placed a small ball bearing in the EGR Vac line and put it back on the EGR. If the solenoid wasn't crying for help, I'd have never noticed.

I did my S - F swap early last winter. FWIW http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=17646
EGR line is blocked off now and the EGR is on top of the old upper hanging out and taking up space. Never know when the state will decide on visual inspections....

A few days ago I took the upper intake off and was amazed at how clean it was inside. A little oily from injesting CDR vapors but no 'coating' and absolutely no carbon. Finally, something 'as advertised.'
 
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