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Early Christmas present. Some assembly required. Batteries included. (95 burb engine)

Progress so far...

First oil hose for the turbo was unusable. They gave me an oil fitting for the turbo to replace the one on the turbo do to being out of stock of the proper fitting. The A-Team turbo has a different thread on the oil hose adapter than the stock turbo.

New CPS installed, just because we were there, and yes it is a biotch to get out even with the timing comer removed from the engine!

Note the A-Team turbo is HUGE vs the GM turbo. Turbo blanket next as well as wrapping the down pipe. This header wrap is painted with the header coating/sealer paint.

ateam.jpg
95burb.jpg

Note the injector/ heat shield / manifold clearance issues with 2 exhaust gaskets. 6.2 heads off a 1986 year. 6.5 short injectors.

mf2.jpgmf.jpg
 
The ATT is huge, I would like to eventually get some support bar on it somehow, like the GMx had, since the ATT is heavier.

My oil fitting was the same on both the GM4 and the ATT, the ATT should have come with a fitting threaded into the top of it that matched the GM turbo.
 
Fitting is the same for the hose connection: The A-Team will use the factory oil line/hose. It is not the same if you unscrew the fitting that connects to the hose from the turbo itself that goes into the turbo body. These threads are completely different from the A-Team to the factory turbo. 99.999% of anyone will not notice or need to notice this.

Hose shop did not have any factory fittings in stock for the hose end. So we were going to change the fitting on the turbo out. So on to plan "B" - wait for the proper part to be in stock.
 
RE ATT OIL Adapter

The fitting supplied with the ATT is made to fit the stock factory line. 100 percent of the original gm turbos and the original factory oil supply line will work on the fitting.

IF and I STRESS THIS HEAVILY, you remove the oil supply fitting that is supplied with the turbo and replace the fitting with your own, you MUST MAKE SURE THE OIL LINE IS THE SAME DIAMETER INTERNALLY AS THE FITTING THAT WAS SUPPLIED. Modifying / restricting the oil supply can cause bearing failure. I have repaired one turbo for an unnamed buyer because of this. They used a smaller diameter fitting and restricted the oil supply causing a vibration and oil failure of the turbo shaft, damaging the compressor wheel. I can't stress this enough.

The diameter of the thread on the fitting base is 11mm, metric threading.

Dennis
 
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Buddy the GM turbo has harmonics in a frequency that required a support bar, The ATT does not resonate like the gm turbo did at certain rpm. This is because of the added mass. There were many miles put on the turbo before it went out to the public.

There are turbos out there with 35 and 40 thousand miles on them that have not had any exhaust manifold issues or related failure of the mounting base.
 
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WarWagon said:
Fitting is the same for the hose connection: The A-Team will use the factory oil line/hose.

It is not the same if you unscrew the fitting that connects to the hose from the turbo itself that goes into the turbo body. These threads are completely different from the A-Team to the factory turbo. 99.999% of anyone will not notice or need to notice this.

Hose shop did not have any factory fittings in stock for the hose end. So we were going to change the fitting on the turbo out. So on to plan "B" - wait for the proper part to be in stock.
Click to expand...




The fitting supplied with the ATT Turbo is designed to use the factory line. If you are removing this fitting, the threads in the ATT body are 11 MM standard metric pitch threads. I can supply an adapter that threads into the ATT body that will use the original pipe thread fitting or it can be used to adapt a pipe thread fitting to the ATT.

I run a adapter because I have a 6.2 hybrid and made an oil line that did not have the original factory fitting. There are metric hydraulic fittings that will work. The threads in the ATT oil feed body are not pipe thread they are standard metric thread pitch.
 
Hey Dennis, got a question that I know the answer is on the forum somewhere, but Im to lazy to do a search and my asking allows for more marketing for you.
What is the typical results to fuel mileage using a ATT?. In my case, run a 4l80e and have 373 rear axle and another with 342.
 
truck parts pics (2).jpgWarwagon,

Not to jump the thread buttruck parts pics (3).jpg, here are the pics you requested that I could not add to the PM. That turbo is nice though. Might have to consider one of them down the road.:thumbsup:

Marktruck parts pics (1).jpg
 
Slim Shady said:
Buddy the GM turbo has harmonics in a frequency that required a support bar, The ATT does not resonate like the gm turbo did at certain rpm. This is because of the added mass. There were many miles put on the turbo before it went out to the public.

There are turbos out there with 35 and 40 thousand miles on them that have not had any exhaust manifold issues or related failure of the mounting base.
Click to expand...

Damn... I will have to fix my truck missing this support bar. It means messing with the heater hose fitting in the crossover and why it was left off. I have since learned to use a barbed fitting for that from other members here.

Thanks for the info.

I will get the proper factory hose made and it is the 6.2 OPS tap edition...
 
Burning oil said:
Hey Dennis, got a question that I know the answer is on the forum somewhere, but Im to lazy to do a search and my asking allows for more marketing for you.
What is the typical results to fuel mileage using a ATT?. In my case, run a 4l80e and have 373 rear axle and another with 342.
Click to expand...


Most people see between on to three miles to the gallon fuel mileage improvment. IF you can keep your foot out of it.
 
In my truck I was driving MS to FL or MS to GA weekly/bi weekly with GM turbo 375 ish range on my 26 gal tank filled to 2nd cut off/fuel burp when filling about 23 gals added to tank from empty on gage,

Putting on the ATT same driving style 400 miles and still have a little showing on the bottom of the fuel gage a few times keeping to 75 mph max speed at nite with little traffic I could squeeze the tank to 440 miles & sucking air sputtering on hills as fuel sloshed away from the pickup, I'd finish the trip by adding 5 gal from can I carried in the bed which would then get me to about 500 driving in town or mid week while in GA

Health of vehicle and driver style will determine actual gains as Dennis said 1-3 is avg gain folks see
 
What rear gears you run Tim? I put 195* stats in mine from 180* and gained 3-4 mpg just with that. I get an easy 440 miles to a tank (34 gal) ATT should push that over 500 or is that wishful thinking?
 
I think it will depend on your RPMs as well, so lowered gear trucks or trucks driving fast will see more gains. The more RPMs you are at, the more CFM the engine must pass, and the ATT makes passing gasses much easier ;)
 
Got the engine mounts changed yesterday. Sadly this job on a 4x4 is getting easier for me. I still dread it though. :sick:

Then I went to stuff the engine in. Not having luck with it. Won't catch the transmission.

Come to find out because it sat for a couple months the jack holding up the transmission leaked down. Trans hit the drive shaft and to my surprise it moved 1/4" to the passenger side on the transmission mount. I did not expect a bolt to be missing on the transmission mount. The lifting shackle I used was also hitting the firewall making needed movement impossible.

So we will correct this today and hopefully see smoke! :firedevil:
 
What I do to make it easy getting the engine and trans lined up is take to long bolts [3/8 on a 6.2] and cut the heads off. Then grind them to a point. Put those in the bottom holes on both sides. It guides the engine right into the tranny before it's even close. Then remove them after getting the other bolts started. I think about 2" long bolt is all the longer you can use because the engine has to partially drop onto the mounts.
 
Good tip.

Got it stuffed in today.
Need to drill out broken torque converter bolt, throw starter in, bats, GP wires, radiator, some fluids, and the accessories.

Storm that hit this evening with rain will stop outdoor work till next weekend.

So I will wrap the crossover and clean up the garage.
 
Caught a break with the weather today. Has Snow on all the visible mountains this AM and it was raining sideways with the wind last night. But it hit 55 and sunny with little wind.

Reverse drill got TC bolt out.

Starter went in fast. Less than 30 min of fighting it. Took longer to get the heat shield and wires fixed and in place.

Need to get down pipe attached and crossover on. Add some fluids, and couple other loose ends before start attempts.
 
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