duramax or cummins

[Acesneights1]

I didn't think the P Pump needed any computer to run. That may be for the Dodge tranny ??? Don't forget to address the Killer Dowel Pin while the motor is out. It's simple fix.

 

[red]

the only wires going to the motor specifically are:
1. the intake heater
2. crank position sensor
3. 3 wire plug going to the injection pump. this is the only plug that i'm concerned about
4. 2 wires going to a plug at the back of the motor by the starter, not starter wires. not sure what the item is, never seen it before.

there are about 10 plugs on the transmission, definetly the main thing the computer is controlling hahaha

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

the only wires going to the motor specifically are:
1. the intake heater There should be 2 large 6 guage wires that hook to the intake heater
2. crank position sensor 3 wires to it on the front of the engine
3. 3 wire plug going to the injection pump. this is the only plug that i'm concerned about 1 wire is a ground, then the hold portion of the fuel cutoff solonoid, and the pull portion. These are hooked up to the 2 relays mounted up on top of the engine by the weatherstripping that seals against the hood. The larger one is a 70 amp that is triggered by the start circuit(this is the pull signal to the cut-off), and the other one is powered via the ASD relay that comes on when you turn the key on(this is the hold circuit, a basic 30 amp relay)
4. 2 wires going to a plug at the back of the motor by the starter, not starter wires. not sure what the item is, never seen it before. These 2 wires will go to a relay that is hot with the key on as they go to the fuel heater.

there are about 10 plugs on the transmission, definetly the main thing the computer is controlling hahaha

On a 95 all that the PCM controls for the trans is lock-up and OD both of which can be manually controlled or done via a couple of pressure switches hooked up to the trans. The PCM also controls the intake heater, alternator, A/C compressor, and I believe the relay for the fuel heater.

 

[Acesneights1]

You can easily lose the intake heater.

 

[red]

even in cold winter temps? truck will be parked outside this winter (should change next winter when i get my own place) and located in northern utah so it gets down into the teens. can plug the block heater in which will help.

so the only wiring needed for the motor is the 3 wires going to the injection pump, which are just a ground wire and 2 wires that will run to the ignition switch? that knowledge makes this swap alot easier.


hit a snag on friday pulling the motor out, motor mount bolts are rusted in place pretty well (no surprise), driver side is loose enough now that its good passanger side is not quite there. have it soaking in pb blaster over the weekend, when i get back on tuesday hopefully it will loosen easier then i should have the motor out of the donor truck!!

 

[btfarm]

I would not lose the grid heater in a cold climate.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

For temps that will regularly see below freezing, I would keep the intake heater and put it on a push button if anything(or a 91 controller). The 3 wires are all that is need for it to run, one ground, one is hot when the key is on, and the other is only activated while the starter is engaged as it is a high current draw. Or you could even hook up a manual kill cable to the pump and then all you would need power for is to start it up.

 

[Acesneights1]

I live in the Northeast and alot of performance guys around here have taken them out with no ill effect. They start pretty good in cold weather. Remember the 5.9 CTD is nothing more than a shrunk down 8.3CTD and they start with no problem unless really really cold in which case should be plugged in anyway.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I know when I was working at the dealership even down here in sunny FLORIDA, when it got down to freezing they didn't want to pop off very well without the intake heaters being used. And anything below 40 outside and my grandfathers 8.3L with smoke you out even with a working intake heater in it.

 

[WarWagon]

...
the truck will be used for long highway trips and towing up to 15k pounds (2 offroad trucks or jeeps on a flatbed trailer) a couple times a year. reliability is #1, followed by power, fuel economy, and comfort
...

:skep: This is the wrong platform to attempt to tow 15K lbs with period. Your 454 is rated the highest at ~11K LBS and the limit there with a GN hitch is frame and other hard parts; not just the engine/powertrain. (This assumes the PU NBS 1988 on.)

I have already replaced the hitch, frame extenders, and tweaked a frame where the hitch mounts from an overload my broker loaded me up with. :mad2: A Duramax pickup would have handled it fine. I don't haul for them anymore.

Safety for you and others needs to be a concern. Although the sheet metal is thinner on newer trucks the tow rating and frame etc. is stronger. Yes, you can 'get away with overloads' until something breaks or the DOT pulls you over or ambushes you in a rest area - commercial or not. If they are bored enough it can happen to you.

Good luck with your swap.

 

[red]

pickup is the 73-87 body style, very familiar with the towing abilities and differences from a 87- and a 88+ style truck. frame will be boxed all the way along, upgrade to disk brakes in the rear. have some pictures of the truck in my garage.

cummins is out of the 95 dodge donor truck, next step is to tear the motor down and inspect/replace any worn parts and rebuild it. should have some pics up before much longer.

 

[Acesneights1]

73-87 frames were the worst. Flimsy and always crack around the steering box. Do yourself a favor and remove the ridicoulous bolts GM used with the spacers on the Steering box and put shorter bolts with good HD grade 8 washers and the frame will not crack.

 

[red]

planning to do that when the motor is out, starting the boxing of the frame from the front since it will be easiest when the motor is out and will brace the steering box area at that time.