• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

dtc after mishap

J

jjustin311

New Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
La Salle, Il
I am the new proud owner of an 06 gmc duramax. Shortly after purchasing the truck i changed all of the fluids and filters. While changing the fuel filter. my rachet arced off the possitive post of the battery, resulting in a burnt hole in the inlet pipe to my filter housing.
 
sorry first post and didnt finish before it was posted.

but anyways the new filter housing is on the way and it is temporarily repaired. the truck is running great but i now have an intermittent check engine light. P0381, P0650, P0087, P0102.

when the check engine light is on everything works properly. When the check engine light is off my tach fluctuates from 0-1000rpms, the turn signals dont work and the words check washer fluid will appear.

i am a heavy duty diesel tech (though after this fuel filter replacement im sure your doubting my abilities) and am new to light duty diesels. I imagine the ecms are the same and run on 5volts not 12. i have had no luck in finding troubleshooting literature for this truck. With there being two sensor on this fuel filter base and i just arced 12volts through the power and ground side of both of these two wire sensors could i have damaged the ecm? i have unplugged ohmed out and visually inspected about every sensor and wire within reach. no signs of burnt or damaged wires or pins.

i have come across a couple posts were people experienced the same symptoms but theres resulted in wiring of gauges or loose connections. this truck is bone stock.
 
Maybe a reflash of the ECM?

Take time to fill out your signature so we now what year your truck is (I assume that it is 06-07) and any mods that you may have done to it. And welcome to our free forum. :welcome3:

We are a forum that is run "by diesel enthusiasts, for diesel enthusiasts!" :thumbsup:
 
Welcome to The Truck Stop!!!!! :welcome2:

At the top of the page we have a tab labeled DTC's you will find the code definitions there.

Since you already have the codes I would try clearing them and see what comes back from there.
 
Welcome to The Truck Stop! I see we are sort of neighbors. Check out the DTCs above and see where that gets you.
 
Thank you everyone for the welcome.
I had the dtc descriptions. Glow plug heater malfunction, mil circuit malfunction, fuel rail pressure low and maf input low.

Yesterday i heard a slight ticking noise on the driver side of the engine. With the glow plug code my imagination got the best of me and i became nauseuos to thought of a broken of glow plug in the cylinder of my new truck. So after work last night i ohmed and removed all off the glow plugs. They ranged from 1.5-2.9 ohms. (and all of them were in tact!!!!!) the only spec i have found is one place said they should be less than 1 ohm. does anyone know the correct reading?
 
The glow plugs are fine. GM officially says 1 OHM or less, but if they're intact and have resistance that low, you're good. I had a bad glow plug that was over 200 OHMS... that was bad.

As far as the ticking on the driver's side goes, it's normal and not related to the fireworks you caused by shorting the batt to ground. At one time or another, you'll notice a random tick that can be heard more from the driver's wheel well... almost all Dmax engines do this and it's commonly called the typewriter tick. Something to do with air bubbles in the oil getting between the main bearings and the crank (I don't understand that and neither does anyone else IMO since no one can explain why it comes and goes)

The ECM on these trucks is very, very, very sensitive to the correct voltage. The fact that you shorted the batteries to ground and basically dropped the voltage to zero is probably why it's throwing the sensor codes- the sensors themselves are probably fine. It may have likely damaged the ECM, GPCM and or the BCM however.

When you reset the codes, does it still act wacky?
 
That's what I thought on the glow plug resistance I had a hard time all of them would be bad especially with that close of resistance. Thanks for the info on the "typewriter" noise I've never heard of that but i do have the price of mind now that the whole problem lies with one or multiple ecu's. I cannot find any good troubleshooting steps to proove wich ones are damaged. Short of throwing ecu's at it were do i start to make this determination?
 
sorry last post was from my phone and it likes to change words for me. ie "price" peice

i just put all the glow plugs in after ohming and visually inspecting all of them. i had to replace one because the stud broke off while removing the wire. The brand new one had 1.2 ohms verifying what you said and what i was thinking.

with my code reader i attempt to clear the codes but they will not clear. and there is no consistency when the check engine light is on or off. everything works great when the check engine light is on but as soon as it goes off the tach gets crazy, check washer fluid, and no turn signals.

i am starting to look for an ecm but i still havent prooved thats the problem. Any ideas on were to get an ecm or glow plug controller from?
 
I'd be tempted to go to a dealer and let them read the pcm,bcm and ecm with a techII. Could be a shortcut instead of the random high $ dart game. I know the DMax tech at Walsh in Ottawa is good at what he does.
 
^^my thoughts exactly... you need to get it to someone with a tech ii that can read and command the various modules to see what is fried.
 
I found out my dealership has a tech two but it is terriblly out of date because we are a heavy duty shop and havent used it in years nor do we get updates for it. So i took your guys advice and went to a light duty gm dealer. the first was honest and said his technicians do not have any experience on diesels wich i thought was suprising. Then i took btfarms advise and went to bill walsh. at $92 an hour i explained what i wanted them to do. they checked for updates and reflashed my ecm. they said nothing is wrong with the truck and i would have to bring it back when it was acting up. The guy didnt even charge me for it. (i highly recomend this place) now for the first time in three weeks my check engine light is off and everything works.

im not at all certain the truck is fixed but maybe reflashing my ecm took care of the problem? i'll post any updates, and thanks btfarm for the recomendation.
 
This is very good news! The've always been good to me. I live 3 miles from another dealer. I go the 25 miles to Walsh...
 
Well as soon as I thought everything was ok. This morning started my truck an d same thing the tach was all over the place and the blinkers didn't work. Drove it about 4 miles and stopped at a stop sign she I tried to take off it started chugging like it was goin to die and no throttle response. I made it about 20ft shut the truck off And cycled the key about a dozen times. Truck started and ran fine the rest of the way to work (besides the no blinkers and fluctuating tach) no check engine light though. When I left for lunch the check engine light came on blinkers started working and tach works. 2 Codes glow plug heater heater control circuit and mil malfunction. I'm ready to throw an ecm at this truck because I'm not getting anywhere with this.
 
Throwing an ECM at it is an expensive chance to take. I would go back to the dealer you had good luck with and see what they have to say.
 
you are right, thats what i need to do but i wont be able to get back there for a week. I will call tommorow and set up an appointment. I did find a website autocomputersystems.com and a new programmed ecm was $370 or i could send mine to them for $199 :mad2:

(if i knew how to post the smiley face hitting his head on the wall i would put it here!!!!)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top