drum brake adjuster's lube, anti sieze, silicone grease, other, or dry ? Why?

[schiker]

I am going to redo my rear brakes someday and want reasoning for best practices.

On the drum brake adjuster what is best lubricant? I go back and forth between a light coat of anti seize or Permetex ceramic extreme brake lubricant (fully synthetic made for brakes grease). I will thoroughly clean probably new then lightly coat threads and wipe off excess (dry except where threads actually engage).

Anti seize is not a lubricant but really I just want to keep the threads from corroding stuck and a light application should stay put and provide corrosion protection. The adjusters unscrew so I don't think dust and crud will clog up the anti seize and prevent it from unscrewing. I can see it causing problems screwing together but not apart. Thinking once screwed together and excess is wiped off it should help seal out crud?

Permetex brake lube is a lube so it should be a good thread protectant too but will it wear off or bleed more than anti seize which seems to have solids?

Dry? Seems there is no long term protection against threads sticking from corrosion and or crud.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

I have some CRC synthetic brake caliper slide grease I've been using because I have it. I've used regular grease before, and had them seize up after just a few years. Never tried anti-seize, but had some stuff similiar to anti-seize that we used to use at teh dealership. It was called RUSTY, but I can't remember who made it.

 

[79jasper]

I used normal copper anti seize on the adjuster because it's what I had on hand.
Far as the rest, I've been using crc silaramic.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[Will L.]

Antisieze. And it is a lubricant btw. It is full of graphite which is a great lube, and dry ptfe in there- greatest lubricant available.

The copper/nickle antisieze works also, but not as good as the good ol grey. The copper/nickle is for extreme temperatures.

It's all we use in the dry/ dusty desert. So if we can't plug it full of muck...
I have never had one I do stick. I fill it 100% full until it is squishing out, then wipe off any on the outside. Keep the threads full of it and there is no room for brake dust, rust, or dirt. I always wished it could be presurized in there to squeeze out a drop everytime the wheel spins to flush the threads.

What about getting it teflon coated? That should be amazing I would think.

 

[btfarm]

I've always used some white lubricant with Teflon. Never had anything but success with it no matter how many winters full of salted roads.

 

[schiker]

What about getting it teflon coated? That should be amazing I would think.

I have thought about that or other coating depending on options slick vs corrosion protection. Probably should be coated/treated OE if they are not.

Leaning towards Anti seize.

Getting it all covered is important and key. I won't worry about being too sparingly on assembly (was a little before since its a brake application). When thread stuff is just gooped on it seems to "squeegee" off machine threads. When applicable maybe like now I like to put some on the female threads too so it helps push some inward with the bolt (not too much to mud lock blind hole) then wipe up excess. It takes more time but worth it. Seen guys with lots of practice dab the right amount and get it to cover threads ok but I doubt it works long term as well. I am usually messy and have to have plenty of wipes.

 

[tanman_2006]

I always used plain old anti seize on mine. My pads lasted 250k miles on my 06. I drove nearly 50k a year and re did the anti seize yearly (when I did my front end work).

 

[Will L.]

My number 2 choice after the antisieze is this stuff. Not the 111 silicone, that was a pic for someone else. This brand brake and caliper grease has teflon and graphite in it so it does ok.
CRC # 05350.