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Driveline grind/vibe

DieselSlug said:
I do have a decent ingersoll rand 1/2 impact and large metric impact sockets (hope its metric), just hope my compressor has enough butt to back it up (1970's craftsman 10 gallon-ish unit) My plan on re-torqueing is to cound threads on the pinion shaft, mark it and return in right to the original position. I hope all the oil leaks have kept the nut nicely lubricated for ease of removal. Plus drooling oil filter changes help also..
Click to expand...


That would be the best way to do it.

I would use a breaker bar to tighten it because you don't want to run the nut on to far then have to back it up. Once the collar is crushed its not coming back.
 
Marking and counting only works if you are re-installing the same parts.. The new yoke may have been machined slightly different.

I'd use the 150 ft/lbs.. But hey, it's your truck!
 
3500GMC said:
Marking and counting only works if you are re-installing the same parts.. The new yoke may have been machined slightly different.

I'd use the 150 ft/lbs.. But hey, it's your truck!
Click to expand...

Thats true too, putting my mark on the old yoke will do me no good. Will have to bring the mark right up onto the differential housing. I will check my shop manual on the installation sequence for this tonight.
 
Check the front out put on your tcase before getting it all back together.

I just rebuilt a friends 246 Tcase (04 1500) today that had the same slipping shaft. He did let his go until the joint let loose at 70mph with 4x4 on but it destroyed the shaft, seal, bearing, out put shaft, and shot the bearings OUT of the case through fully custom holes. Found a rear case 1/2 and bought a new out put. He is driving it to a dealer to trade it in in the AM, lol.

Not sure if yours would of had enough vibration to damage the seal or bearing but it would be worth checking..
 
Well more great stuff last night. Tried to attach the new yoke to the driveshaft on the bench. The joint fit the yoke width (cap to cap) wise perfectly however; the diameter of the caps that attatch to the yoke are too small. (they have some play in the yoke just like the current yoke on my truck still! Now i was thinking the yoke i got was wrong. I called Main NAPA (local headquarters) to verify part numbers.

The u-joint i was given is a Precision 355; the strap kit i was given was a 530-10. Which on their computer shows as the correct part.

Im so lost right now. And of course i replaced two joints last week so im not 100% sure on which caps came off which joint so i cant re-assemble my old joint front to use as a "demo" at the NAPA store.

The new front joint 355 has two larger caps that attach the u-joint to the driveshaft, however the two joints that attach to the yoke are smaller. If the joint had the same size caps on the yoke side as the driveshaft side then it would fit perfectly! Obviously with a new strap kit too.

I dont even know how i would go about ordering/finding the correct part..
 
tanman_2006 said:
Check the front out put on your tcase before getting it all back together.

I just rebuilt a friends 246 Tcase (04 1500) today that had the same slipping shaft. He did let his go until the joint let loose at 70mph with 4x4 on but it destroyed the shaft, seal, bearing, out put shaft, and shot the bearings OUT of the case through fully custom holes. Found a rear case 1/2 and bought a new out put. He is driving it to a dealer to trade it in in the AM, lol.

Not sure if yours would of had enough vibration to damage the seal or bearing but it would be worth checking..
Click to expand...

Had to be some wild carnage for sure. Front out-put of the t-case feels tight, with the shaft out i cant get the slip joint to feel loose.
 
DieselSlug said:
The new front joint 355 has two larger caps that attach the u-joint to the driveshaft, however the two joints that attach to the yoke are smaller. If the joint had the same size caps on the yoke side as the driveshaft side then it would fit perfectly! Obviously with a new strap kit too.

I dont even know how i would go about ordering/finding the correct part..
Click to expand...

Try a rear ujoint in the new yoke. It should fit the shaft yoke too. Might work.

Maybe you got an old style front yoke.. (for the live axle trucks)..

Check the spline count.

Maybe the seller accepts returns if you got the wrong part for your truck.
 
3500GMC said:
Try a rear ujoint in the new yoke. It should fit the shaft yoke too. Might work.

Maybe you got an old style front yoke.. (for the live axle trucks)..

Check the spline count.

Maybe the seller accepts returns if you got the wrong part for your truck.
Click to expand...

Going to NAPA either today or tomorrow to see if they can sort this out. I have the new yoke, my drive-shaft and whats left of my old joint to get this sorted out.
 
Looked up the 355 ujoint on RA. The big difference is the clips..

I'm leaning more towards the wrong new yoke being the problem.

Seems your truck has the inner 'c' clips on the cap that fits into your OEM yoke. Probably why theres no evidence of 'tangs' on the old OEM yoke.

Mike you get to have all the fun don't you?

Rust, what rust...

HPE_355.jpg
 
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