Driveline grind/vibe

[DieselSlug]

Recently started pickup up a grind/vibe when I turn the wheel to the passenger side. Found a little play in the steering. Replaced idler arm and bracket (was sloppy). There is still some play in the steering which possibly looks like a drivers outer tie rod. Going to be replacing that shrotly. Crawled underneath the truck yesturday to check driveshafts, the front shaft feels "loose" where the two bones of the u-joint are clamped in with straps at the front yoke. I can slide the bones of the joint back and forth under the straps.

Im guessing that joint needs to be replaced?

Also i noticed a small amount of play where the slip joint is on the front shaft. When you apply a forde perpendicular to the shaft you can see a tiny amount of play at this joint also. The joint looks wet and i doo grease it regularly. Is there any tolerance for play at the slip joint? Wondering if this is going to be a new driveshaft (current has 240K on it) or just a joint and strap replacement?

For now the plan is to remove the front shaft all together and drive it till it get replaced.

 

[3500GMC]

A little movement up-down in the slip joint is fine. The ujoint caps should not be sliding in-out of the straps. Or is the caps stationary and the rest of the joint moving?

I'd get new straps for the new ujoins and hopefully your diff yoke isn't worn out from the movement.

 

[DieselSlug]

A little movement up-down in the slip joint is fine. The ujoint caps should not be sliding in-out of the straps. Or is the caps stationary and the rest of the joint moving?

I'd get new straps for the new ujoins and hopefully your diff yoke isn't worn out from the movement.

Im pretty sure the whole caps were moving inside the straps. Will try to remove the shaft tonight. I want to make sure the shaft isnt siezed also. Hope for the best!

 

[DieselSlug]

Picked up a new u-joint and strap kit yesturday. Last night i did an oil change and had a few minutes to blow. When put a force perpendicular to the driveshaft the bones of the joint (cups) slide inside the straps maybe 1/16 of an inch. I installed the new strap kit and the cups were now stationary, however the u-joint is now moving inside the caps. So it seems like the joint and the straps are both worn out. Funny, especially because i had a shop replace this joint about 2 years ago.. Anywho, waiting on some free time to swap this joint out and install the new strap kit and should be good to go. Keep yah posted.

 

[WarWagon]

I had to change the yoke on my front diff to get it tight.

I was hoping there was a spec for the front prop shaft as I have the same up and down slop on it, but, I have a spare shaft...

 

[3500GMC]

Sounds like the ujoint took out the tabs that center the caps in the yoke, when it was doing the slide back and forth thing.

 

[DieselSlug]

I need to at least make some time to get this shaft out so i dont destroy my yoke.

 

[DieselSlug]

Ended up replacing the joint. However my luck has it always that the new joint is even looser than the old!!

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lir_UC04-3M

Sorry for the crummy video, my good camera was left at work and the truck was plastered in a wonderful wet salty mess. I love NY...

Clamps are tight. Is the yoke supposed to have tabs to keep the u-joint centered? The yoke is very smooth on the inside. I am thinking its way worn out? The new joint has play every which way, the old joint only had play sliding in and out under the straps. Ideas? Looks like the next bet is to replace the yoke?

 

[NVW]

Is the video with the new U-joint? Don't drive it like that, the cups will fly off. Is that the correct one as it shouldn't have more play than the old one. You also need a new yoke.

 

[DieselSlug]

Is the video with the new U-joint? Don't drive it like that, the cups will fly off. Is that the correct one as it shouldn't have more play than the old one. You also need a new yoke.

Yup that is the new MOOG joint. Precision unit # 355. The part is correct i checked it myself. Yeah already removed the shaft. Looks like the yoke is the next bet.

 

[DieselSlug]

Called my local GM dealer. They quoted me $79.92 for the pinion yoke. Does anyone know if this is a one size fits all? I.E. 1500-3500, have the same front pumpkin?

 

[DieselSlug]

http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=387075&ukey_product=3060027

Good site to use for parts numbers. Item # 47 is what i think i need.

 

[3500GMC]

46 appears to be part of the yoke when installed. 'deflector'.. I'd get one unless you think the old one could be R+R'd..

Maybe a new locknut and seal while you're at it.

 

[DieselSlug]

Beginning to think this isnt my only issue, the grinding is getting worse. Im believing i have a bearing going bad again somewhere up front, i replaced the passenger side last year. Drivers maybe, i need to find a jack!

 

[DieselSlug]

Found one on ebay brand new in box for 58.50!! Bought it today.

 

[3500GMC]

Oh yeah, Happy Dance. :nanawrench:

 

[DieselSlug]

Well ended up finding more play in a u-joint in the rear shaft now! Not much play but it is the same type of play as the front u-joint. The joint itself slides back and forth inside the caps, maybe 1/16-1/8 of an inch. Bought a new u-joint today and will hopefully install tonight. (since its pouring and nasty salty, so it just makes sense for me to climb under there...)

 

[DieselSlug]

Got the new GM yoke. Good looking unit, this one even came with the pressed on dust shield.:thumbsup:

I am contemplating on doing the work myself. Currently my compressor is broken, but will be fixed soon. However it only goes up to about 110 PSI. Will this be enough to get the monster nut off? Im sure i will also need a puller. Will a harmonic balancer puller work?

As soon as i can im going to try and attach the yoke to the driveshaft sitting on my bench to make sure this really is the issue. This new yoke has the tits on it to keep the u-joint centered, unlike mine. So either mine wore off (which i find a little hard to believe, because they are so big) Wonder if this is an addition to this part?

 

[3500GMC]

No puller needed. A little bump with a mallet will work. You might consider a new seal too.

The pinion nut will be tight. 110 might do it if you have a healthy 1/2" impact. When reassembling, use a little sealant under the washer next to the yoke. I'm not sure on a torque spec because these are set up with a crush sleeve and are tightened to a certain bearing 'drag' spec. The spec is usually measured in in/lbs. Impossible to achieve as an assembled unit.

Myself, I just crank on it until the nut all but stops turning.. At least 150 ft/lbs.

I've heard of guys cranking up their compressor switches to 125-130... But you didn't hear that from me.. :thumbsup:

 

[DieselSlug]

No puller needed. A little bump with a mallet will work. You might consider a new seal too.

The pinion nut will be tight. 110 might do it if you have a healthy 1/2" impact. When reassembling, use a little sealant under the washer next to the yoke. I'm not sure on a torque spec because these are set up with a crush sleeve and are tightened to a certain bearing 'drag' spec. The spec is usually measured in in/lbs. Impossible to achieve as an assembled unit.

Myself, I just crank on it until the nut all but stops turning.. At least 150 ft/lbs.

I've heard of guys cranking up their compressor switches to 125-130... But you didn't hear that from me.. :thumbsup:

I do have a decent ingersoll rand 1/2 impact and large metric impact sockets (hope its metric), just hope my compressor has enough butt to back it up (1970's craftsman 10 gallon-ish unit) My plan on re-torqueing is to cound threads on the pinion shaft, mark it and return in right to the original position. I hope all the oil leaks have kept the nut nicely lubricated for ease of removal. Plus drooling oil filter changes help also..