stacks04
McLovin
this is from elsewhere on the web. thanks ben (duratothemax) for the write up. and all the leg work.
Hi everyone! Brace yourself...Lemme take a deep breath before I explain these instructions …
I have been getting emails left and right for my instructions on installing the Cadillac Escalade OEM Touch-screen Navigation unit (otherwise called a ‘TNR’) Well here is the whole deal. Yup, I certainly must have a lot of time on my hands because I wrote/typed up the entire thing myself! I just love learning about this stuff and explaining it so maybe I got a bit carried away. Sit back and get ready for some reading and lots of info!!!
FAQ's:
-Will my steering wheel controls work as they did before? YES
-Will XM radio work as before with no programming/activation needed? YES
-Will OnStar still work as before? YES
-Will the RSE/factory DVD player work as before? YES
-Will the RSA (rear seat audio) controls work as before? YES
-Can I add the 6-disc Escalade/Denali CD changer to both LUX and NON-Lux nav units? YES
-Can I reprogram non-lux nav units to lux and vice versa? YES, contact DP member MachoMachoDan for information
-Does the Nav unit use the OnStar antenna? NO, it uses a separate antenna as stated
First of all, everything in this guide assumes you are doing the Bose LUXURY conversion as well (to get much better sound quality). In short, GM makes two different Bose speaker systems for the GMT-800 series vehicles: The Bose “Premium” (non-lux) and the Bose “Luxury” (lux). The non-lux system is what you get with an SLT/LT Silverado/Sierra/Suburban/Yukon/YukonXL/Tahoe. It utilizes a mid-range speaker in each door, a tweeter in each A-pillar (the tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door speakers, and they are given a capacitor to act as a high pass cross-over) and a 6.5” dual voice-coil subwoofer mounted in the center console. If your door speakers say “Bose” on them, you have this system. SUV’s also have a speaker in each D-pillar as well (these mid-high range d-pillar speakers are wired in parallel with the rear door speakers on the NON-lux systems and on the LUX systems, they are wired into a separate channel on the amplifier, so they can reiceive different signals than the rear door speakers). Now, Denali’s and Escalade’s have the Bose “Luxury”, or [RPO code] “Y91” Bose speaker system. The great part is, that the speakers themselves and the subwoofer are IDENTICAL to the non-lux system. Both non-lux and lux Bose speakers are referred to as [RPO code] UQ7 on the build sheet and in your glovebox sticker. The ONLY lux/non-lux difference is the AMPLIFIER. And what a difference it is! The Luxury amplifier is of MUCH higher quality and also has more RMS wattage output. It deals with sound completely differently than the non-lux amp and processes it in a much cleaner fashion, for MUCH MUCH better sound quality. It also devotes much more power to the subwoofer, so with a Lux system, the sub is actually woken up and makes itself heard. Now remember, this is still the same 6.5” sub, so it wont blow out windows, but I bet it will sound much richer and deeper than you ever thought a 6.5” sub could sound! The Lux amp is also fully computerized and utilizes an onboard DSP (Digital Signal Processor, or Digital Sound Processor; ive heard a DSP be called both names) to tweak the sound and also provide different soundfield/reverberation/environment settings, such as “Driver”, “Spacious”, “Passenger”, and “Rear”…it is a “Smart” amp. The lux amp also is fully integrated with the vehicle’s Class II data-bus, so functions such as muting and control of the amp are all done via the BCM (body control module…basically the cars main computer) and Class II data. The non-lux amp is jokingly called the “Dumb amp” because it lacks any computer or control of the sound. The only thing it has is a simple passive crossover to prevent high range signals from going to the sub. So basically, that’s the difference between, for example, an Escalade Bose system and a Tahoe Bose system…a 600 dollar amp versus a 170 dollar amp. We’ll talk about the more specific differences between the two amps a little later on.
Now for a shopping list, part numbers, etc…
Nav part numbers:
Newest revision LUX TNR-------15800001
Second Revision LUX TNR-------15230099
First Revision LUX TNR---------10377531
Newest revision non-lux TNR-----15800000
second Revision non-lux TNR---10379287
First Revision non-lux TNR-------10377287
Alt. Revision non-lux TNR---------15120706
Newest Revision LUX INR--------15204335
First Revision LUX INR------------15204334
Newest Revision non-lux INR----15108241
NON-BOSE TNR (trucks with UQ3/UQ5 non-Bose audio)-----15811289
Lux Amplifier numbers: (all are identical in function, they just have different part numbers)
2003-early 2004 Escalade amp--15199992
2005 Escalade amp-----------------15114445
2003-2005 Denali amp-------------15114454
2003 Hummer H2 amp-------------xxxxx044 (I forget the first numbers)
Early 2004 Hummer H2 amp-----15191601
(unknown application) amp-------15112662
(unknown application) amp-------15199884
I have this amp on my list as a "bad amp" but Im not sure why-----------15054675
it is confirmed as working with the nav unit; its the amp im running in my truck
GPS antenna:
First revision antenna--------------15207447
Latest revision antenna------------15135178
“AudioPilot” Noise Compensation Microphone:
Noise compensation mic----------25705367
Wiring connector on mic----------12052833
Mating connector for mic----------12085481
Denali/Escalade style CD changer and assoc. parts
6-disc slot load CD changer------15055250
Alternate part # CD changer------15122617
Alternate part # CD changer------15207055
CD changer wiring harness-------15312903
Where to buy different parts…
The nav unit you can get anywhere. I got mine on ebay for 1000 dollars including the separate external GPS antenna. If you want to save a lot of money, you could go for the “INR” (Integrated Navigation Radio…non-touchscreen). These can be had for about 600 dollars or less. If you don’t want to go thru the hassle of doing the luxury sound upgrade, you can also keep your stock non-lux Bose amplifier and get a different part number nav unit that is compatible with that. The two are NOT interchangeable!! They look identical, but are different inside.
The amp I highly recommend buying on ebay. Two reasons... the Lux
amps, when new, need to get an initial programming with a Tech II
diagnostics/program tool. (BTW, the amplifiers, both lux and Premium,
are located in the center console underneath the main storage bin)
This initial programming tells the amp what model/size vehicle its in
so it can adjust the DSP (digital signal/sound processor) to make the
sound correct for the size cabin its in. For example, an Escalade EXT
cabin is much smaller than an Escalade ESV cabin, so the amp needs to
be adjusted for best sound. This programmig can be tricky if the
vehicle that the amp is being programmed into is not a factory LUX
vehicle. Understand? Like the amp will say to itself "hey...somebody
is trying to program me into a Silverado...im not meant to go into a
Silverado...something is wrong here..." For this reason, people
sometimes have difficulty in programming the amps. H2 lux amps are
particularly picky, no one knows why. After reprogramming they just
tend to randomly go dead after a little while. Denali and Escalade
amps seem to be OK but then theres the problem of convincing your
dealer to actually program and do something thats not in his magic
instruction manual from GM. I have been close frineds with my dealer
forever, so for me it wasnt a big deal to convince them "yes it will
work even though GM says it wont". However, other people have had
trouble convincing their dealers to perform the programming. BUT if
you buy an amp used on ebay for example, it has already been
initialized and programmed so its plug and play (besides rewiring the
connectors...). So my advice is to buy the amp on ebay. Much much
cheaper and you wont have to deal with the [potential] hassle of
porgramming it. As for warentee, beleive it or not, GM parts direct
really has no warentee i dont think. So you are no better off than if
you bought it on ebay.
OK...now for the big "book" of info that I have written for people!!
First ill just describe how the lux amp actually works and why it is
much better than the "Premium" amp. You dont HAVE to read it, but just
in case you are curious...and it kinda helps with the install to have
an understanding of what you are actually doing (versus just following
the instructions).
Here is exactly how the non-lux and lux amps differ and why the LUX amp sounds better than the premium amp. Sorry for my long
winded explanation...i sort of got carried away (this is the
explanation I sent to another guy that was interested in the lux amp
conversion too...except he did only the lux amp...no TNR)!!!
So normally in an aftermarket amp/speaker system, you have a head
unit (the radio), an amp, and speakers. The head unit sends a "low
level" signal to the amp. This low level signal varies in output
"slightly" as the volume knob is turned up or down. The amp takes this
signal and greatly amplifies it and sends the high-power, high level
signal to the speakers. When you turn up the volume knob, the "low
level" signal gets slightly more powerful and the amp then amplifies
this and you hear it as "louder sound". Follow me? If I get too
confusing at any point, just PM me or email me!! The amp also has an "amp turn
on" wire which is basically a power wire from the head unit so when
the head unit turns on, it tells the amp to turn on. Kinda like a
relay. The Bose "Premium" system works on this exact same principal.
We kinda refer to the Bose Premium amp/system as the "dumb amp",
because thats basically what it is. It sits there just like a fool and
just "makes louder" whatever is thrown at it. It does not know what it
is attached to and has no interaction with the car at all (you could
hook it up to a telephone for all it cares). This is probably where it
loses quality. The wires from the head unit probably pick up a lot of
interference because GM doesnt think and they just bundle the thin
wires right along side electrical wires etc... The stronger the audio
signal passing thru the wires, the more suseptable the signal is too
interference. So, technically, the more you increase the volume, the
more interference the wires pick up. Also, you have to think about
that the "dumb" amp's "volume" (called 'gain') is always cranked to
the MAX, so when you vary the "output" from the radio, you can get a
full volume range from quiet to really loud. If the Dumb Amp's gain
was not turned up all the way, than the system would not go loud even
if you turned up the radio all the way. Follow me? Its like if you
have a water hose hooked up to a faucet and on the end of the hose you
have a variable water valve. Think of the faucet's knob as the volume
knob on the radio. And think of that valve on the end of the hose as
the "gain" control on the dumb amp. Now, if you only opened up the
valve on the end of the hose a little bit, not a lot of water will
come out no matter how wide open you turn the faucet's knob. SO... the
valve at the end of the hose has to be wide open all the time in order
for you to be able to control it (the volume/water flow) at the
faucet's (radio's) knob. This is a disadvantage because on cheaper
quality amplifiers (which the 'dumb amp' is), when the gain is cranked
up all the way, you introduce lots of distortion and quality loss even
tho the volume is not up all the way. That is why the 'dumb amp' does
not sound all that great (and like a Bose system should!!!
NOW... The lux amp works completely differently.
It is a "smart amp" in that is has a full on-board computer and DSP
(digital signal/sound processor). It is fully integrated with the
vehicle in that it communicates with everything in the vehicle over
the Class II data bus. (like a computer LAN) Now.. the head unit in
"lux" vehicles sends a VERY low level constant signal to the amp that
does NOT change. EVen when you turn the volume and play with the
fader/balance. The head unit does NOTHING to audio. It does not apply
bass or treble changes, it doesnt fade/balance it, nothing!! It just
sends a constant low level left and right (it doesnt send rear
signals) audio signal to the amp. The amp receives this and the amp's
DSP "optimizes" the sound to do whatever Bose does to it etc.. AND the
amp constantly talks to the head unit over the Class II data bus to
receive volume, fader, balance, bass, treble and mid-range
information. So, when you turn the volume knob up in a lux vehicle,
you are not simply increasing the output of the low-level signal from
the head unit. You are sending a signal directly to the LUX amp that
says "hey turn up the volume a bit". And then the amp just increases
the output level to the speakers. Same thing with the fader, because
remember the head unit does not output separate "rear" channels. The
amp is smart enough to "make up" a rear channel (for the rear
speakers) based on the fader setting that the radio is sending it over
the Class II network. its really pretty cool how it all works! Same
thing with Bass and treble too. You press some buttons on the radio to
increase the bass and the radio says to the amp "hey, adjust your EQ
for some more bass". Running the LUX amp this way keeps the audio
signals coming from the radio at a constant low level so not a lot of
interference can come in from power wires running along side... Also,
think back to my "water faucet/hose" analogy. Its like instead of
keeping the end valve wide open and controlling flow with the faucet's
knob, you are doing the opposite. You are keeping the audio signal low
and constant while just controlling actual volume of the music with
the "gain" control on the LUX amp. ANDDD thats why the LUX amp sounds
50 times better than the Premium, or DUMB amp!! Another nice thing
about the Lux amp is that it does not need an "amp turn on" wire or
anything because that is all done with Class II data. And you can
program a lux amp for which vehicle it is in and it will alter the
sound processing sequences to make the sound perfect for the size
cabin it is in! (for example, it is going to have to be programmed
differently if it is in a huge cabin Escalade ESV versus a smaller
extended cab Sierra Denali (thats the only truck that gets a lux amp
from the factory...if you dont count the Escalade EXT as a truck)
Sorry again for the lonnngggg description, but now you're an
expert in the verry confusing field of Bose/GM speaker and
entertainment systems!!! And now you can wire in a lux amp, make your
truck sound like a *REAL* Bose system, and show your dealer something
that he would have thought was impossible!! Explain to him how the lux
amp works and how its different from the dumb amps and ill bet he'll
be scratching his head after the second sentence!
OK now onto the actual installation instructions...
I attached a zipped folder of some pictures and all of the
documents. Some pictures are mine, other pics (the better ones! Haha) are courtesy of DP member Diesel Breath. Many thanks Diesel Breath! Some documents you may not need, like the
Theftlock clear procedure (if the Nav you are buying is brand new)
and the amp setup procedure (because the amps on ebay are used
and wont have to be programmed...its actually best NOT to program the
amp because for some odd reason, the amps can go dead after
programming). The ONLY situation where you should program an amp is if it is unprogrammed. You will know if it is unprogrammed because audio will only come from the RIGHT FRONT speaker. Otherwise, leave the amp alone!! (as I described before) There are two different docs that describe the same
rewiring procedure... Some people that I have helped find the first
doc more helpful...some find the second doc more helpful. Its just preference as to which doc you use. The first document is credited to the mastermind behind this whole install, an incredibly smart Chevy Avalanche Fan Club of North America member named Sperry. He is the fellow that figured out this whole install/conversion from SCRATCH back in January of 2004. This was back when the navigation units were quite rare and NO ONE knew how they or the Lux amps worked. He figured it all out and because of him, we are all happily and easily converting our trucks today.
(first disconnect the battery and remove the old 6-disc
radio before starting the amp install)
Basically you need to take the
console apart by removing the lid, inner storage bucket (don’t forget the screws on the bottom under the little rubber mat) and cupholders. Also take the "rear end" off so you can see the amp and
the amp connectors. Its just a lot of screws and thats it! Once you
get everything apart, unplug the amp and unscrew the two rear bolts. (all the hex-head bolts for the radio and amp are 9/32”)
Then, this is the only tricky part... Look carefully at the pictures I
took of mine... The front two amp bolts are under the metal
plate...unless you have a perfect little 9/32” wrench or soemthing that can sneak
in and unscrew those bolts, you will need to drill two 1/2" holes in
the metal plate right above the bolts. Once you drill these holes, you can fit a nutdriver
or something thru and unbolt the amp. Pull the amp out towards the
rear. You will have to bend a sheet metal bracket a bit to squeeze the
amp out. Now you can work on the connectors. I did the amp C2
connector (the smaller one with 8 pins) first. First use a small
screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clips (on both rows of
pins). Then look closely at the connector and you will see how the
pins are held in place. There is like a little plastic tab that snaps
and locks them in. This next part can get frustrating, but be patient!! Use a paper clip, safety pin or something small to insert into the holes on the connector. When you look at it ull understand. Push the wire into the connector to relieve pressure on the locking tab and then press the
little tab out of the way and then carefully pull the pin and wire
out. Dont pull hard!!! The pins should come out easilly. Once all the
pins that need to be moved are out, check the sheet for where they go,
and push them into their new places. They will kind of click into
place and then once you are all done, put the retaining clips back on
the connectors. Then do the larger C1 connector. Work on one row at a
time because I think there are some color duplicates between rows.
These smaller pins are trickier to release. Remove the retaining
clips. Then insert the paper clip or, even better, a small
screwdriver, into the OUTER rows of holes to release the pins. (the
holes that are closest to the edge of the connector) Once you have
confirmed the pins are correct, you have to take the "drain wire" that
you removed from the C2 connector and put it into the C1 connecctor
(as shown in the charts). You are going to need to cut off the large
pin because it wont fit into the smaller 24 pin connector. Since there
are about 6 wires/pins that you completely cut off because they are
not needed (the ones from the RSA and the amp turn on wire and the
radio mute wire) with the lux amp, use one of those pins and splice it
onto the end of the drain wire (i used a crimp butt-splice). Now you
can stick the drain wire into its new position in the 24 pin C1
connector! Dont throw away any of the other wires that you cut off
either... One IMPORTANT wire that the amp needs that was not there
previously is of course the Class II data wire (becuase the amp is
totally interactive with the head unit and BCM)!! You can use a
simple
plastic wire tap (also called a ScotchLoc connector) and tap into the
Class II wire that goes to the RSA (rear seat audio...the audio
controls for the back passengers). It is the easiest Class II source
to tap into just because it is closest to the amp; theoretically you
could use any Class II wire in the truck. It is a light blue wire that
goes into the RSA connector. You may also want to make a second tap on this light blue Class II wire if you intend to add a CD changer as well…cause the CDX needs Class II data too. First get some extra 18 or 20 gauge wire
(about a foot or so). Then crimp on one of those extra pins to the end
of the wire. Put the pin into the correct position in the amp C1
connector (position B10). Then, using the plastic wire tap/Scotchloc
connector, take the other end of that wire and tap into the LIGHT BLUE
wire of the RSA. Dont cut the wire going to the RSA though!! You are
basically just making a little 3 way splitter, so Class II data can
get to the RSA and to the amp. Now put the TNR in and plug it in normally.
Screw it in but dont put the instrument panel bezel back on. Now you
need to mount the GPS antenna. Most people just kind of stuff it as
far towards the front of the vehicle as possible. However, I just
wanted to be sure it was not going to move around so I bolted it in
the factory position. (see pic). You will have to take the whole dash
top off for this. Its really not as complicated as it seems. First
unscrew all the screws that you can see that hold it on. Then, on both
sides of the truck, there are screws under the fuse panel covers.
Then, use a screwdriver to pry out the two passenger side vents. There is also a screw behind each vent holding the dash cover on. Kinda
up inside the vents there are two white plastic buttons (one on each
side or the passenger SRS airbag inflator module). Press these two buttons and this releases the passenger side
grab handle. Once you have all screws out, pull off the two A-pillar
covers. Be careful not to pull too hard cause the Bose tweeters have
pretty short cables and dont give you much slack to reach in there and
unplug them. Unplug them and remove the A-pillar covers. Then work the
dash top cover off (kinda slide it towards you then up and out). Its a little tricky. ONE NOTE OF CAUTION... Be
careful of the ambient light sensor (the little black bulb sticking up
on the front center of the dash top), the cord is really short and
when I pulled off my cover, I broke the stupid thing!! Luckilly its
only like a 25$ part. Bolt the GPS antenna in using an existing bolt under the dash. (see picture for mounting location) Now you will have to
wire up a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) wire for the Nav. This wire
basically helps out the nav if it loses the GPS signal for a little
bit. (like if you go in a tunnel) With speed info from the car, it can
still make a good estimation of where you are going until it regains the GPS
signal.
***NOTE*** You MAY or MAY NOT have to do this step (wire the VSS wire).
For 2005, im 99% sure all of the GMT-800 vehicles already have the
VSS wire in place as standard. My '05 Duramax LT Crew Cab already had
it… If your truck is a 2005 there is no
reason it shouldnt have it. 2004.5 MAY or may not have it. 2003 and
early 2004 definetly wont have it; only the Escalades and Denali's had
it back then because the Nav was an option that was exclusive to
those two vehicles... You can check for it
by looking at the radio C2 connector (the smaller one). Check if there
is a DARK GREEN wire going into pin "E". If its there, the VSS wire is
already in place and you dont have to worry about wiring it.
Alternatively, you can temporarrily plug in the TNR and start driving
forward...if the "destination programming screen/section" gets grayed
out as you go above 10 mph or so, then the VSS wire is working
properly.***
VSS WIRING INSTRUCTIONS IF YOU DON’T ALREADY HAVE THE WIRE:
You will have to remove the instrument cluster. Unbolt the 4
bolts that hold it in and pull it forward and unplug it. Find the wire
that goes into the A4 pin of the gauges connector. It will be a green
with white stripe wire. This is the VSS wire. Use a plastic wire
tap/Scotchloc connector and tap into this wire. Run the wire and make
sure it is long enough to reach the "radio C2" connector (the smaller
radio connector). Now take another of those "unused" pins that you cut
off of the amp harness. Splice it onto the end of the "new" VSS wire.
Then, pry off the pin retaining clip from the radio C2 connector. Then
push the pin into the "E" position. (see diagrams for which position
is E...its also in tiny tiny letters on the plastic connector) Snap
the retaining clip back on.
Now You can plug in the TNR. Dont screw it
in yet in case something doesnt work. Plug the amp in at this time
too. dont mount it yet either... Now reconnect the battery. Put the
key in and you should hear [door]
chimes!!! If you don’t hear chimes, you probably have a bad Class II data connection (check the wire you spliced).Start the truck. The new radio will take a second to
initialize as it learns your trucks VIN so it can become "married" to
your VIN incase someone steals the radio (it will now only work with
your VIN). IF you bought a USED radio, a "theftlock engaged" screen
will come up. You can temporarrily bypass this for testing purposes by
turning off the truck, then put the key in the ACC position, and pull the
radio fuse for 5 seconds (with the key
still in ACC). Then put the fuse back in and the radio will have full
functionality until you
turn the key off or try to start the truck. If you do either of those,
the radio will lock up again. Alternatively you can simply unplug the large 24-pin radio connector for 5 seconds instead of pulling the fuse. Now that the Theftlock is "bypassed,
fire up the radio and test out that LUXURY sound!!! I
personally find it sounds best with the bass 1 notch below maximum,
treble 1 notch below maximum, and the mid-range right at the middle.
(I know on a "normal" stereo system this sounds like a dumb EQ
setting, but on Bose equipment, its what makes it sound NORMAL!! The
amp's internal EQ does wierd things and in order for it to sound good,
you have to crank the bass and crank the treble and leave the mid
range at the default setting). You will find all the audio settings by
pressing the "Audio (musical note)" button. Along the bottom of the
screen are the various DSP modes. Cycle thru them (like SPACIOUS,
DRIVER, REAR, PASSENGER) to find out what sounds best to you. I personally like
"SPACIOUS" the best. Also, press the "page down (arrow)" button and
make sure the auto-volume (AudioPilot) is set to OFF if you did not install the microphone (IMO its not worth it…it’s a waste of money). Lastly, check
out to make sure all the speakers are working correctly and everything
sounds good. If you dont say "WOW!!" the first time you hear it, then
something must have gone wrong!! It is just that big of an improvment
over the "Premium" system.
Alright still with me??? Here is the CDX install instructions:
This part is pretty simple if you follow the wiring diagrams and CDX wiring chart that is included. First of all make sure you have the correct CDX. A 2001-2002 CDX will NOT work!! Back then before the GMT-800’s went to a full Class II data bus, the radios and climate control spoke over the slow old E&C data bus (Entertainment & Comfort). This was much too slow a data rate for the increasing amount of data that traveled between the radios and BCM’s, so in 2003 everything in the whole vehicle switched to the Class II data bus. This was a good move because in 2002 and before, it was such a mish-mosh of data busses that it was a mess. E&C controlled the radios, CDX’s and climate control. UART controlled the SRS Airbag systems, Class II controlled main BCM functions such as locks, windows, and seats, and finally the CAN bus (Controller Area Network, very similar in operation and function to a home Personal Computer LAN) controlled ECM/PCM/TCM (engine control/powertrain control/tranny control) communication. Now its all Class II and a little bit of CAN for the PCM/TCM. Back to the CDX though…you need a 2003 or later CDX that speaks on the Class II data bus. The only visual difference between the two is that the 2002 and older units had plastic slides on the sides for mounting. The 2003 and up units have metal tabs, or “ears” sticking out of the sides. If you bought one and are unsure if it’s the right one, send me a picture and ill help you out. DON’T try plugging it in until you’re sure…I don’t know if the conflicting data-busses could damage something. Now remove the black plastic console bezel that holds the two cig lighters/12 volt outlets. It just pulls out. Give it a good yank. Look in there and you will see a perfect space for the CDX…except a big lump with a hole in it is in the way. Simply cut it out. I Dremmel’d it and finished it off with a mini-hack saw and finally, just grabbed it with a big pair of Channel-locks and broke it out. Just be careful cause there are some wires RIGHT behind it. Snake the CDX harness from the radio area down to the console. Then plug in the CDX and bolt it in place with some self tapping screws. To fit the plastic bezel around it, I cranked up the table saw blade as high as it would go and just cut off the “back” of the pocket on the bezel. Don’t cut if off completely. Leave about 3/16 of an inch to fit flush against the CDX’s own bezel. You’ll figure it out once you start. Keep trimming it back until it fits perfectly. Now just follow the wiring diagram in the picture to splice in the wires at the correct places on the two radio connectors. I soldered them, but you can use ScotchLoc connectors also. If you DON’T have XM, there wont be any audio wires on the radio C2 connector to splice into. In that case, just remove the pins from the 9-pin flat CDX harness plug and insert the pins into the appropriate places on the radio C2 connector. The pins are the same size on both connectors so they will plug right in. If you have XM, splice the wires in as normal.
Now put everything back together and enjoy! whew!!! All done!
Email me back with any questions comments or suggestions, (like if you found an easier way to do a step) and as I said before, ill be happy
to help out with any problems you may run into!! Good luck and go have fun with this rewarding mod.
----Ben
Here is the website that has all of the pictures and wiring charts, programming documents, instructions, etc...
Many thanks to Andrew Fessler for hosting the pictures and putting them into a great website!!
http://duramax.onlinedesk.net/navinstall/
Hi everyone! Brace yourself...Lemme take a deep breath before I explain these instructions …
I have been getting emails left and right for my instructions on installing the Cadillac Escalade OEM Touch-screen Navigation unit (otherwise called a ‘TNR’) Well here is the whole deal. Yup, I certainly must have a lot of time on my hands because I wrote/typed up the entire thing myself! I just love learning about this stuff and explaining it so maybe I got a bit carried away. Sit back and get ready for some reading and lots of info!!!
FAQ's:
-Will my steering wheel controls work as they did before? YES
-Will XM radio work as before with no programming/activation needed? YES
-Will OnStar still work as before? YES
-Will the RSE/factory DVD player work as before? YES
-Will the RSA (rear seat audio) controls work as before? YES
-Can I add the 6-disc Escalade/Denali CD changer to both LUX and NON-Lux nav units? YES
-Can I reprogram non-lux nav units to lux and vice versa? YES, contact DP member MachoMachoDan for information
-Does the Nav unit use the OnStar antenna? NO, it uses a separate antenna as stated
First of all, everything in this guide assumes you are doing the Bose LUXURY conversion as well (to get much better sound quality). In short, GM makes two different Bose speaker systems for the GMT-800 series vehicles: The Bose “Premium” (non-lux) and the Bose “Luxury” (lux). The non-lux system is what you get with an SLT/LT Silverado/Sierra/Suburban/Yukon/YukonXL/Tahoe. It utilizes a mid-range speaker in each door, a tweeter in each A-pillar (the tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door speakers, and they are given a capacitor to act as a high pass cross-over) and a 6.5” dual voice-coil subwoofer mounted in the center console. If your door speakers say “Bose” on them, you have this system. SUV’s also have a speaker in each D-pillar as well (these mid-high range d-pillar speakers are wired in parallel with the rear door speakers on the NON-lux systems and on the LUX systems, they are wired into a separate channel on the amplifier, so they can reiceive different signals than the rear door speakers). Now, Denali’s and Escalade’s have the Bose “Luxury”, or [RPO code] “Y91” Bose speaker system. The great part is, that the speakers themselves and the subwoofer are IDENTICAL to the non-lux system. Both non-lux and lux Bose speakers are referred to as [RPO code] UQ7 on the build sheet and in your glovebox sticker. The ONLY lux/non-lux difference is the AMPLIFIER. And what a difference it is! The Luxury amplifier is of MUCH higher quality and also has more RMS wattage output. It deals with sound completely differently than the non-lux amp and processes it in a much cleaner fashion, for MUCH MUCH better sound quality. It also devotes much more power to the subwoofer, so with a Lux system, the sub is actually woken up and makes itself heard. Now remember, this is still the same 6.5” sub, so it wont blow out windows, but I bet it will sound much richer and deeper than you ever thought a 6.5” sub could sound! The Lux amp is also fully computerized and utilizes an onboard DSP (Digital Signal Processor, or Digital Sound Processor; ive heard a DSP be called both names) to tweak the sound and also provide different soundfield/reverberation/environment settings, such as “Driver”, “Spacious”, “Passenger”, and “Rear”…it is a “Smart” amp. The lux amp also is fully integrated with the vehicle’s Class II data-bus, so functions such as muting and control of the amp are all done via the BCM (body control module…basically the cars main computer) and Class II data. The non-lux amp is jokingly called the “Dumb amp” because it lacks any computer or control of the sound. The only thing it has is a simple passive crossover to prevent high range signals from going to the sub. So basically, that’s the difference between, for example, an Escalade Bose system and a Tahoe Bose system…a 600 dollar amp versus a 170 dollar amp. We’ll talk about the more specific differences between the two amps a little later on.
Now for a shopping list, part numbers, etc…
Nav part numbers:
Newest revision LUX TNR-------15800001
Second Revision LUX TNR-------15230099
First Revision LUX TNR---------10377531
Newest revision non-lux TNR-----15800000
second Revision non-lux TNR---10379287
First Revision non-lux TNR-------10377287
Alt. Revision non-lux TNR---------15120706
Newest Revision LUX INR--------15204335
First Revision LUX INR------------15204334
Newest Revision non-lux INR----15108241
NON-BOSE TNR (trucks with UQ3/UQ5 non-Bose audio)-----15811289
Lux Amplifier numbers: (all are identical in function, they just have different part numbers)
2003-early 2004 Escalade amp--15199992
2005 Escalade amp-----------------15114445
2003-2005 Denali amp-------------15114454
2003 Hummer H2 amp-------------xxxxx044 (I forget the first numbers)
Early 2004 Hummer H2 amp-----15191601
(unknown application) amp-------15112662
(unknown application) amp-------15199884
I have this amp on my list as a "bad amp" but Im not sure why-----------15054675
it is confirmed as working with the nav unit; its the amp im running in my truck
GPS antenna:
First revision antenna--------------15207447
Latest revision antenna------------15135178
“AudioPilot” Noise Compensation Microphone:
Noise compensation mic----------25705367
Wiring connector on mic----------12052833
Mating connector for mic----------12085481
Denali/Escalade style CD changer and assoc. parts
6-disc slot load CD changer------15055250
Alternate part # CD changer------15122617
Alternate part # CD changer------15207055
CD changer wiring harness-------15312903
Where to buy different parts…
The nav unit you can get anywhere. I got mine on ebay for 1000 dollars including the separate external GPS antenna. If you want to save a lot of money, you could go for the “INR” (Integrated Navigation Radio…non-touchscreen). These can be had for about 600 dollars or less. If you don’t want to go thru the hassle of doing the luxury sound upgrade, you can also keep your stock non-lux Bose amplifier and get a different part number nav unit that is compatible with that. The two are NOT interchangeable!! They look identical, but are different inside.
The amp I highly recommend buying on ebay. Two reasons... the Lux
amps, when new, need to get an initial programming with a Tech II
diagnostics/program tool. (BTW, the amplifiers, both lux and Premium,
are located in the center console underneath the main storage bin)
This initial programming tells the amp what model/size vehicle its in
so it can adjust the DSP (digital signal/sound processor) to make the
sound correct for the size cabin its in. For example, an Escalade EXT
cabin is much smaller than an Escalade ESV cabin, so the amp needs to
be adjusted for best sound. This programmig can be tricky if the
vehicle that the amp is being programmed into is not a factory LUX
vehicle. Understand? Like the amp will say to itself "hey...somebody
is trying to program me into a Silverado...im not meant to go into a
Silverado...something is wrong here..." For this reason, people
sometimes have difficulty in programming the amps. H2 lux amps are
particularly picky, no one knows why. After reprogramming they just
tend to randomly go dead after a little while. Denali and Escalade
amps seem to be OK but then theres the problem of convincing your
dealer to actually program and do something thats not in his magic
instruction manual from GM. I have been close frineds with my dealer
forever, so for me it wasnt a big deal to convince them "yes it will
work even though GM says it wont". However, other people have had
trouble convincing their dealers to perform the programming. BUT if
you buy an amp used on ebay for example, it has already been
initialized and programmed so its plug and play (besides rewiring the
connectors...). So my advice is to buy the amp on ebay. Much much
cheaper and you wont have to deal with the [potential] hassle of
porgramming it. As for warentee, beleive it or not, GM parts direct
really has no warentee i dont think. So you are no better off than if
you bought it on ebay.
OK...now for the big "book" of info that I have written for people!!
First ill just describe how the lux amp actually works and why it is
much better than the "Premium" amp. You dont HAVE to read it, but just
in case you are curious...and it kinda helps with the install to have
an understanding of what you are actually doing (versus just following
the instructions).
Here is exactly how the non-lux and lux amps differ and why the LUX amp sounds better than the premium amp. Sorry for my long
winded explanation...i sort of got carried away (this is the
explanation I sent to another guy that was interested in the lux amp
conversion too...except he did only the lux amp...no TNR)!!!
So normally in an aftermarket amp/speaker system, you have a head
unit (the radio), an amp, and speakers. The head unit sends a "low
level" signal to the amp. This low level signal varies in output
"slightly" as the volume knob is turned up or down. The amp takes this
signal and greatly amplifies it and sends the high-power, high level
signal to the speakers. When you turn up the volume knob, the "low
level" signal gets slightly more powerful and the amp then amplifies
this and you hear it as "louder sound". Follow me? If I get too
confusing at any point, just PM me or email me!! The amp also has an "amp turn
on" wire which is basically a power wire from the head unit so when
the head unit turns on, it tells the amp to turn on. Kinda like a
relay. The Bose "Premium" system works on this exact same principal.
We kinda refer to the Bose Premium amp/system as the "dumb amp",
because thats basically what it is. It sits there just like a fool and
just "makes louder" whatever is thrown at it. It does not know what it
is attached to and has no interaction with the car at all (you could
hook it up to a telephone for all it cares). This is probably where it
loses quality. The wires from the head unit probably pick up a lot of
interference because GM doesnt think and they just bundle the thin
wires right along side electrical wires etc... The stronger the audio
signal passing thru the wires, the more suseptable the signal is too
interference. So, technically, the more you increase the volume, the
more interference the wires pick up. Also, you have to think about
that the "dumb" amp's "volume" (called 'gain') is always cranked to
the MAX, so when you vary the "output" from the radio, you can get a
full volume range from quiet to really loud. If the Dumb Amp's gain
was not turned up all the way, than the system would not go loud even
if you turned up the radio all the way. Follow me? Its like if you
have a water hose hooked up to a faucet and on the end of the hose you
have a variable water valve. Think of the faucet's knob as the volume
knob on the radio. And think of that valve on the end of the hose as
the "gain" control on the dumb amp. Now, if you only opened up the
valve on the end of the hose a little bit, not a lot of water will
come out no matter how wide open you turn the faucet's knob. SO... the
valve at the end of the hose has to be wide open all the time in order
for you to be able to control it (the volume/water flow) at the
faucet's (radio's) knob. This is a disadvantage because on cheaper
quality amplifiers (which the 'dumb amp' is), when the gain is cranked
up all the way, you introduce lots of distortion and quality loss even
tho the volume is not up all the way. That is why the 'dumb amp' does
not sound all that great (and like a Bose system should!!!
NOW... The lux amp works completely differently.
It is a "smart amp" in that is has a full on-board computer and DSP
(digital signal/sound processor). It is fully integrated with the
vehicle in that it communicates with everything in the vehicle over
the Class II data bus. (like a computer LAN) Now.. the head unit in
"lux" vehicles sends a VERY low level constant signal to the amp that
does NOT change. EVen when you turn the volume and play with the
fader/balance. The head unit does NOTHING to audio. It does not apply
bass or treble changes, it doesnt fade/balance it, nothing!! It just
sends a constant low level left and right (it doesnt send rear
signals) audio signal to the amp. The amp receives this and the amp's
DSP "optimizes" the sound to do whatever Bose does to it etc.. AND the
amp constantly talks to the head unit over the Class II data bus to
receive volume, fader, balance, bass, treble and mid-range
information. So, when you turn the volume knob up in a lux vehicle,
you are not simply increasing the output of the low-level signal from
the head unit. You are sending a signal directly to the LUX amp that
says "hey turn up the volume a bit". And then the amp just increases
the output level to the speakers. Same thing with the fader, because
remember the head unit does not output separate "rear" channels. The
amp is smart enough to "make up" a rear channel (for the rear
speakers) based on the fader setting that the radio is sending it over
the Class II network. its really pretty cool how it all works! Same
thing with Bass and treble too. You press some buttons on the radio to
increase the bass and the radio says to the amp "hey, adjust your EQ
for some more bass". Running the LUX amp this way keeps the audio
signals coming from the radio at a constant low level so not a lot of
interference can come in from power wires running along side... Also,
think back to my "water faucet/hose" analogy. Its like instead of
keeping the end valve wide open and controlling flow with the faucet's
knob, you are doing the opposite. You are keeping the audio signal low
and constant while just controlling actual volume of the music with
the "gain" control on the LUX amp. ANDDD thats why the LUX amp sounds
50 times better than the Premium, or DUMB amp!! Another nice thing
about the Lux amp is that it does not need an "amp turn on" wire or
anything because that is all done with Class II data. And you can
program a lux amp for which vehicle it is in and it will alter the
sound processing sequences to make the sound perfect for the size
cabin it is in! (for example, it is going to have to be programmed
differently if it is in a huge cabin Escalade ESV versus a smaller
extended cab Sierra Denali (thats the only truck that gets a lux amp
from the factory...if you dont count the Escalade EXT as a truck)
Sorry again for the lonnngggg description, but now you're an
expert in the verry confusing field of Bose/GM speaker and
entertainment systems!!! And now you can wire in a lux amp, make your
truck sound like a *REAL* Bose system, and show your dealer something
that he would have thought was impossible!! Explain to him how the lux
amp works and how its different from the dumb amps and ill bet he'll
be scratching his head after the second sentence!
OK now onto the actual installation instructions...
I attached a zipped folder of some pictures and all of the
documents. Some pictures are mine, other pics (the better ones! Haha) are courtesy of DP member Diesel Breath. Many thanks Diesel Breath! Some documents you may not need, like the
Theftlock clear procedure (if the Nav you are buying is brand new)
and the amp setup procedure (because the amps on ebay are used
and wont have to be programmed...its actually best NOT to program the
amp because for some odd reason, the amps can go dead after
programming). The ONLY situation where you should program an amp is if it is unprogrammed. You will know if it is unprogrammed because audio will only come from the RIGHT FRONT speaker. Otherwise, leave the amp alone!! (as I described before) There are two different docs that describe the same
rewiring procedure... Some people that I have helped find the first
doc more helpful...some find the second doc more helpful. Its just preference as to which doc you use. The first document is credited to the mastermind behind this whole install, an incredibly smart Chevy Avalanche Fan Club of North America member named Sperry. He is the fellow that figured out this whole install/conversion from SCRATCH back in January of 2004. This was back when the navigation units were quite rare and NO ONE knew how they or the Lux amps worked. He figured it all out and because of him, we are all happily and easily converting our trucks today.
(first disconnect the battery and remove the old 6-disc
radio before starting the amp install)
Basically you need to take the
console apart by removing the lid, inner storage bucket (don’t forget the screws on the bottom under the little rubber mat) and cupholders. Also take the "rear end" off so you can see the amp and
the amp connectors. Its just a lot of screws and thats it! Once you
get everything apart, unplug the amp and unscrew the two rear bolts. (all the hex-head bolts for the radio and amp are 9/32”)
Then, this is the only tricky part... Look carefully at the pictures I
took of mine... The front two amp bolts are under the metal
plate...unless you have a perfect little 9/32” wrench or soemthing that can sneak
in and unscrew those bolts, you will need to drill two 1/2" holes in
the metal plate right above the bolts. Once you drill these holes, you can fit a nutdriver
or something thru and unbolt the amp. Pull the amp out towards the
rear. You will have to bend a sheet metal bracket a bit to squeeze the
amp out. Now you can work on the connectors. I did the amp C2
connector (the smaller one with 8 pins) first. First use a small
screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clips (on both rows of
pins). Then look closely at the connector and you will see how the
pins are held in place. There is like a little plastic tab that snaps
and locks them in. This next part can get frustrating, but be patient!! Use a paper clip, safety pin or something small to insert into the holes on the connector. When you look at it ull understand. Push the wire into the connector to relieve pressure on the locking tab and then press the
little tab out of the way and then carefully pull the pin and wire
out. Dont pull hard!!! The pins should come out easilly. Once all the
pins that need to be moved are out, check the sheet for where they go,
and push them into their new places. They will kind of click into
place and then once you are all done, put the retaining clips back on
the connectors. Then do the larger C1 connector. Work on one row at a
time because I think there are some color duplicates between rows.
These smaller pins are trickier to release. Remove the retaining
clips. Then insert the paper clip or, even better, a small
screwdriver, into the OUTER rows of holes to release the pins. (the
holes that are closest to the edge of the connector) Once you have
confirmed the pins are correct, you have to take the "drain wire" that
you removed from the C2 connector and put it into the C1 connecctor
(as shown in the charts). You are going to need to cut off the large
pin because it wont fit into the smaller 24 pin connector. Since there
are about 6 wires/pins that you completely cut off because they are
not needed (the ones from the RSA and the amp turn on wire and the
radio mute wire) with the lux amp, use one of those pins and splice it
onto the end of the drain wire (i used a crimp butt-splice). Now you
can stick the drain wire into its new position in the 24 pin C1
connector! Dont throw away any of the other wires that you cut off
either... One IMPORTANT wire that the amp needs that was not there
previously is of course the Class II data wire (becuase the amp is
totally interactive with the head unit and BCM)!! You can use a
simple
plastic wire tap (also called a ScotchLoc connector) and tap into the
Class II wire that goes to the RSA (rear seat audio...the audio
controls for the back passengers). It is the easiest Class II source
to tap into just because it is closest to the amp; theoretically you
could use any Class II wire in the truck. It is a light blue wire that
goes into the RSA connector. You may also want to make a second tap on this light blue Class II wire if you intend to add a CD changer as well…cause the CDX needs Class II data too. First get some extra 18 or 20 gauge wire
(about a foot or so). Then crimp on one of those extra pins to the end
of the wire. Put the pin into the correct position in the amp C1
connector (position B10). Then, using the plastic wire tap/Scotchloc
connector, take the other end of that wire and tap into the LIGHT BLUE
wire of the RSA. Dont cut the wire going to the RSA though!! You are
basically just making a little 3 way splitter, so Class II data can
get to the RSA and to the amp. Now put the TNR in and plug it in normally.
Screw it in but dont put the instrument panel bezel back on. Now you
need to mount the GPS antenna. Most people just kind of stuff it as
far towards the front of the vehicle as possible. However, I just
wanted to be sure it was not going to move around so I bolted it in
the factory position. (see pic). You will have to take the whole dash
top off for this. Its really not as complicated as it seems. First
unscrew all the screws that you can see that hold it on. Then, on both
sides of the truck, there are screws under the fuse panel covers.
Then, use a screwdriver to pry out the two passenger side vents. There is also a screw behind each vent holding the dash cover on. Kinda
up inside the vents there are two white plastic buttons (one on each
side or the passenger SRS airbag inflator module). Press these two buttons and this releases the passenger side
grab handle. Once you have all screws out, pull off the two A-pillar
covers. Be careful not to pull too hard cause the Bose tweeters have
pretty short cables and dont give you much slack to reach in there and
unplug them. Unplug them and remove the A-pillar covers. Then work the
dash top cover off (kinda slide it towards you then up and out). Its a little tricky. ONE NOTE OF CAUTION... Be
careful of the ambient light sensor (the little black bulb sticking up
on the front center of the dash top), the cord is really short and
when I pulled off my cover, I broke the stupid thing!! Luckilly its
only like a 25$ part. Bolt the GPS antenna in using an existing bolt under the dash. (see picture for mounting location) Now you will have to
wire up a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) wire for the Nav. This wire
basically helps out the nav if it loses the GPS signal for a little
bit. (like if you go in a tunnel) With speed info from the car, it can
still make a good estimation of where you are going until it regains the GPS
signal.
***NOTE*** You MAY or MAY NOT have to do this step (wire the VSS wire).
For 2005, im 99% sure all of the GMT-800 vehicles already have the
VSS wire in place as standard. My '05 Duramax LT Crew Cab already had
it… If your truck is a 2005 there is no
reason it shouldnt have it. 2004.5 MAY or may not have it. 2003 and
early 2004 definetly wont have it; only the Escalades and Denali's had
it back then because the Nav was an option that was exclusive to
those two vehicles... You can check for it
by looking at the radio C2 connector (the smaller one). Check if there
is a DARK GREEN wire going into pin "E". If its there, the VSS wire is
already in place and you dont have to worry about wiring it.
Alternatively, you can temporarrily plug in the TNR and start driving
forward...if the "destination programming screen/section" gets grayed
out as you go above 10 mph or so, then the VSS wire is working
properly.***
VSS WIRING INSTRUCTIONS IF YOU DON’T ALREADY HAVE THE WIRE:
You will have to remove the instrument cluster. Unbolt the 4
bolts that hold it in and pull it forward and unplug it. Find the wire
that goes into the A4 pin of the gauges connector. It will be a green
with white stripe wire. This is the VSS wire. Use a plastic wire
tap/Scotchloc connector and tap into this wire. Run the wire and make
sure it is long enough to reach the "radio C2" connector (the smaller
radio connector). Now take another of those "unused" pins that you cut
off of the amp harness. Splice it onto the end of the "new" VSS wire.
Then, pry off the pin retaining clip from the radio C2 connector. Then
push the pin into the "E" position. (see diagrams for which position
is E...its also in tiny tiny letters on the plastic connector) Snap
the retaining clip back on.
Now You can plug in the TNR. Dont screw it
in yet in case something doesnt work. Plug the amp in at this time
too. dont mount it yet either... Now reconnect the battery. Put the
key in and you should hear [door]
chimes!!! If you don’t hear chimes, you probably have a bad Class II data connection (check the wire you spliced).Start the truck. The new radio will take a second to
initialize as it learns your trucks VIN so it can become "married" to
your VIN incase someone steals the radio (it will now only work with
your VIN). IF you bought a USED radio, a "theftlock engaged" screen
will come up. You can temporarrily bypass this for testing purposes by
turning off the truck, then put the key in the ACC position, and pull the
radio fuse for 5 seconds (with the key
still in ACC). Then put the fuse back in and the radio will have full
functionality until you
turn the key off or try to start the truck. If you do either of those,
the radio will lock up again. Alternatively you can simply unplug the large 24-pin radio connector for 5 seconds instead of pulling the fuse. Now that the Theftlock is "bypassed,
fire up the radio and test out that LUXURY sound!!! I
personally find it sounds best with the bass 1 notch below maximum,
treble 1 notch below maximum, and the mid-range right at the middle.
(I know on a "normal" stereo system this sounds like a dumb EQ
setting, but on Bose equipment, its what makes it sound NORMAL!! The
amp's internal EQ does wierd things and in order for it to sound good,
you have to crank the bass and crank the treble and leave the mid
range at the default setting). You will find all the audio settings by
pressing the "Audio (musical note)" button. Along the bottom of the
screen are the various DSP modes. Cycle thru them (like SPACIOUS,
DRIVER, REAR, PASSENGER) to find out what sounds best to you. I personally like
"SPACIOUS" the best. Also, press the "page down (arrow)" button and
make sure the auto-volume (AudioPilot) is set to OFF if you did not install the microphone (IMO its not worth it…it’s a waste of money). Lastly, check
out to make sure all the speakers are working correctly and everything
sounds good. If you dont say "WOW!!" the first time you hear it, then
something must have gone wrong!! It is just that big of an improvment
over the "Premium" system.
Alright still with me??? Here is the CDX install instructions:
This part is pretty simple if you follow the wiring diagrams and CDX wiring chart that is included. First of all make sure you have the correct CDX. A 2001-2002 CDX will NOT work!! Back then before the GMT-800’s went to a full Class II data bus, the radios and climate control spoke over the slow old E&C data bus (Entertainment & Comfort). This was much too slow a data rate for the increasing amount of data that traveled between the radios and BCM’s, so in 2003 everything in the whole vehicle switched to the Class II data bus. This was a good move because in 2002 and before, it was such a mish-mosh of data busses that it was a mess. E&C controlled the radios, CDX’s and climate control. UART controlled the SRS Airbag systems, Class II controlled main BCM functions such as locks, windows, and seats, and finally the CAN bus (Controller Area Network, very similar in operation and function to a home Personal Computer LAN) controlled ECM/PCM/TCM (engine control/powertrain control/tranny control) communication. Now its all Class II and a little bit of CAN for the PCM/TCM. Back to the CDX though…you need a 2003 or later CDX that speaks on the Class II data bus. The only visual difference between the two is that the 2002 and older units had plastic slides on the sides for mounting. The 2003 and up units have metal tabs, or “ears” sticking out of the sides. If you bought one and are unsure if it’s the right one, send me a picture and ill help you out. DON’T try plugging it in until you’re sure…I don’t know if the conflicting data-busses could damage something. Now remove the black plastic console bezel that holds the two cig lighters/12 volt outlets. It just pulls out. Give it a good yank. Look in there and you will see a perfect space for the CDX…except a big lump with a hole in it is in the way. Simply cut it out. I Dremmel’d it and finished it off with a mini-hack saw and finally, just grabbed it with a big pair of Channel-locks and broke it out. Just be careful cause there are some wires RIGHT behind it. Snake the CDX harness from the radio area down to the console. Then plug in the CDX and bolt it in place with some self tapping screws. To fit the plastic bezel around it, I cranked up the table saw blade as high as it would go and just cut off the “back” of the pocket on the bezel. Don’t cut if off completely. Leave about 3/16 of an inch to fit flush against the CDX’s own bezel. You’ll figure it out once you start. Keep trimming it back until it fits perfectly. Now just follow the wiring diagram in the picture to splice in the wires at the correct places on the two radio connectors. I soldered them, but you can use ScotchLoc connectors also. If you DON’T have XM, there wont be any audio wires on the radio C2 connector to splice into. In that case, just remove the pins from the 9-pin flat CDX harness plug and insert the pins into the appropriate places on the radio C2 connector. The pins are the same size on both connectors so they will plug right in. If you have XM, splice the wires in as normal.
Now put everything back together and enjoy! whew!!! All done!
Email me back with any questions comments or suggestions, (like if you found an easier way to do a step) and as I said before, ill be happy
to help out with any problems you may run into!! Good luck and go have fun with this rewarding mod.
----Ben
Here is the website that has all of the pictures and wiring charts, programming documents, instructions, etc...
Many thanks to Andrew Fessler for hosting the pictures and putting them into a great website!!
http://duramax.onlinedesk.net/navinstall/
