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Did I make the right choice?

Sadly it sounds like rod or main going out, and the shake also points that way... but could be a injector...

Now you need to crack each injector line at the injector one at a time and see if you can narrow it to a cyl...

But me thinks you should be looking for a motor...
 
Yes. And also its leaking oil from I believe an oil cooler line I seen a huge puddle when I backed up.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 
THE94CHEV said:
Ok I'll do that once I'm back home they tried fixing it and it was a return line that was leaking but will get a video tommorow of it
Click to expand...

WTF is "They?" as in Who?

And the oil level is??? :eek:

Yeah loose an oil cooler line and the engine is gone in 60 seconds. Leaks are a warning. Track down the leak as it can be from the OPS topside. Better hoses and coolers are here:
http://leroydiesel.com/product-category/engine-lubrication/

Any codes in the computer? Should have a misfire cylinder# code.

That's an AWFUL job on the injectors seen in the video. The return lines are excessively long and just waiting to get ripped off on the steering shaft. The injector line hold downs at the intake appear to be missing - very long term line rub through and/or fatigue cracking issue. You could have a cracked injector line pissing fuel and not firing a cylinder due to the fact it's literally cracked. Or a loose injector line nut to injector. No high pressure due to a line leak of any kind and that cylinder isn't going to fire. The injector may not get enough pressure to even pop. It's a small amount of fuel so the problem leak may look small.

The blow by appears excessive as you can see it coming out of the dipstick. These engines can run and run well with lots of blowby - just means you are nearer to the end of ring life.

When you know what the leak is from and it's fixed. Check the coolant level cold and the oil level: The take the oil filler cap off. Is the blowby puffing or just steady when it's running? Video helps.

The missing shake is no fuel or no compression. Rocker off, injectors, burned valve... Video (sound) of it cranking over would be useful.
 
Ok I'll get that video in the morning. And I'm a noob to all of this I don't know where the oil pressure switch on top side is located but I will look at pictures. I will check coolant and oil as well before I crank it. And yes it smokes out of the dip stick continuously.
 
Start video cold, go direct to crank without waiting for glow plugs. I want to hear the engine spin a couple times over on the starter alone.

OPS location with pictures.
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/oil-pressure-sender.30240/

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/lift-pumps-ops-operation-and-troubleshooting.6872/
The OPS also controls the lift pump - runs when there is oil pressure.

I would be pooping my pants with oil pressure that low at 2500 RPM!

Last oil change was when?
Get a mechanical gauge on it - even just for testing.

With a miss like that you may have diesel fuel thinning the oil.

Engines: a 6.5 is simply a bored out 6.2. Slight differences on the head to injector angle - you can use the 6.2 heads with minor issues I can detail.
http://www.boyceequipment.com/#!engines/c18ta

FWIW this is massive blowby: And if I could have gotten enough timing on it to start and run it would still be running like that!
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/1992-6-5td-rescue.44332/page-2#post-504479
 
Last edited:
1 cylinder misfire. Crack injector nuts 1 at time of hile idling to determine which it is. The pull that injector and swap it with another to see if the misfire follows the injector or stays at that cylinder.
 
Ok. So cylinder #1. I'm sorry if I annoy yall with the dumb questions I have alot of work that if got to do to this rig.
 
Not being short here but it sounds like your in over your head a bit with this motor...

Search youtube for some of these questions & answers that you don't quite understand, videos often are much easier to understand than our answers when you are new to these motors..

We can help with it all but YOU must be able to understand the answer also, it takes time, these are easy motors once you have a real understanding of how the entire system works... very rarely is their one easy fix....

just saying do some reading & watching vids, it's ALL been covered many times before...
 
I have to agree with sctrailrider, and would add: spend your time not just youtube, but read through the entire sticky section here.

The 6.5 engine has it's problems, but they have all been worked out and can be fixed to give a long life of low cost use and maintenance. But is generally better for a backyard mechanic or better to do it. No offense intended, but it sounds like your in kinda deep. There are sometimes I really want to throw some tools in my rig and drive over to help, but Montana is way too far...

You can get there, but be patient, and learn what you need to. Knowledge is with you the rest of your life so make the investment.
 
While I foresee a steep learning curve, new tools/parts and a lot of researching in your future, you're in good hands here.
Take your time, study it out, focus on one issue at a time, don't just throw money at it and have faith in yourself.
Former member here rebuilt for what he thought was a rod knock only to have the same issue with the new motor...nope, it was an injector he reused on the 'new' motor creating the noise! Not discounting what SCtrailrider, WarWabon and Will L. have said, just trying to offer a bright side to look at...hope springs eternal.
Replacing the rubber return lines as suggested is inexpensive and a good way to isolate a fuel leak.
You can use a long screw driver held against the injectors, one at a time, as a stethoscope to hear differences (keep it off the injection lines though).
Cracking the lines at the injectors is easy enough on the driver's side, which is why you'll probably find the issue on the passenger side. For all the above, with any and all the work on the passenger side, the turbo is coming off so prepare for that joy and use the time to get the oil leak solved with new rubber and hose clamps after a good cleaning of the metal parts.
I found the OPS comes out and goes back in with the upper intake off and either a crow's foot or or basin wrench (plumbing section of your local hardware store). You might want to invest in some time at a Massage Therapy or Chiropractor afterwards as your back may be in a state of rebellion afterwards.
 
Yes you guys are right I am way over my head on this. I look forward to doing all the things I need to get it running correctly I belive it's an injector as well sounds like a definate misfire of a piston last night I found out my exhaust manifold is loose as shit on the passenger side the people that cut the cat out left it in the frame which is great. And there's a bunch of oil on the underside of the undercarriage and I see some complications I will face yes but I am willing to get the knowledge and study this motor and all the problems it has I've watched videos of "bulletproofing" the motor and such but not much on the injectors like I should. But there's no offense from yall I know there's a bunch of panzee asses now a days that get offended but I completely understand what yall are saying
 
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