• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Demonic Posseion, Need exorcist...Won't shut off

A

Acesneights1

New Member
Messages
10,018
Reaction score
36
Location
Northeast CT
OK I'm outta Ideas. I put a new IP on the 1990 Burb. A DB2 I got from someone rebuilt. Truck doesn't shut off. Put test light on terminal with key off and truck still running. No power but if I unplug the terminal, truck dies ??? Test light is fine. It gets better. I pull out my digital meter, same thing key off truck still running I had about 7/10th of a volts present which could be a fluke with dig meter. Again disconnect wire, truck dies. Start truck again and shut off key. Truck is still running but I took a jumper from NEG and grounded terminal. Truck dies. Sounds simple right like somehow millivolts are keeping it on ??? Start truck, shut key off truck is still running. Give very light tap to top of IP. Truck dies. WTF ?????:mad2:. So I take the top off the IP and swap with another Junk DB2 I had just taken off. Start truck up. Turn key off, truck shuts off. Yeah!!!! Do this 6x same result. Start truck up today, turn key off, TRCUK STAYS RUNNING :mad2::mad2:
I'm outta ideas and ready to call the Priest. I have aptly Named the truck "Christine"
What am I missing ? Is something hangin up in the IP ? and if so why does it shut off whether I tap the IP OR disconnect the wire which apparnetly has no power anyway. Why does this F'up s^it always happen to me ?
 
i had something similar to this happen to my truck, heres how mine went. i hard wired the LP (ops was stupid and worked about half the time) to 12v with key on, sometimes the truck would shut off like it was supposed to but other times i would turn the key off and it would stay running, flip the LP switch and it would die. didnt really figure out why it worked that way. i did notice that if the OPS was working (i new this by the truck not falling on its face when accelerating from a stop with the LP switch in the OFF position) the truck shut off just fine. the only thing i could figure was that i was getting enough fuel to the IP to keep it running since its a mechanical pump.
not sure if this is help full but its another strange problem
 
chevyCowboy said:
i had something similar to this happen to my truck, heres how mine went. i hard wired the LP (ops was stupid and worked about half the time) to 12v with key on, sometimes the truck would shut off like it was supposed to but other times i would turn the key off and it would stay running, flip the LP switch and it would die. didnt really figure out why it worked that way. i did notice that if the OPS was working (i new this by the truck not falling on its face when accelerating from a stop with the LP switch in the OFF position) the truck shut off just fine. the only thing i could figure was that i was getting enough fuel to the IP to keep it running since its a mechanical pump.
not sure if this is help full but its another strange problem
Click to expand...

The fuel shutoff is electric. Cut the power to the shutoff solenoid and the engine should die. Sounds like you had something in your LP circuit backfeeding to the shutoff solenoid and keeping power to it.
 
well, the problem is escalting. Now it shuts off ok but is running like crap at idle and hard to start. WTF ?? I'm gonna call a couple junk yards and price an engine. This one is a lost cause. It's idling too fast even with fast idle disconnected and like chugging at idle. It seems to run fine otherwise. It is hard to start. It cranks awhile then all of a sudden roars to life,. I just can't win.I even threw Holy water on it from Church this AM. Maybe this truck needs to be cut up. I've lost so much money on vehichles in the last 6 months I'll be driving a VW Rabbit again.
 
It's a good thing I no longer have access to heavy equipment. I once squashed a 76 GMC K20 with a 980C cause it stranded me in a parking lot....:mad:
 
well, I have not updated but...we went to church last sunday for easter so on the way out as a joke I grabbed a fistful of Holy water at the door and threw it on the truck and laughed saying "I exercise the demons" . Jokingly I told my wife who is trying to get me into church more that if that fixes it I'll go next sunday...........
THE TRUCK HAS SHUT OFF FINE EVER SINCE and is running excellent...
:eek:
I am not making this up. I have witnesses...
 
Maybe you had air in the system or something causing the crappy idle. The shutoff could've been a dirty ign switch causing that slight voltage to keep it running. IIRC they are a slider type switch so after they slide a few times they'll clean up, unlike the GMT-400 body style with is the contact style which arc's and burns out after a while.

Either that or it really was possessed. :eek:
 
I don't know if it's related but I've seen it happen on gassers,the alternater will back feed if the diodes are bad and the engine won't shut off. You might try unplugging the alt if there is a next time. Carry a gallon of holy water in case that doesn't work or go to church twice a week.
 
I was sure it was the starter sol feeding back. So far still shuts off but i did notice this am it hesistated. Something is sticking in the IP . This IP must have been laying around.
 
Acesneights1 said:
I was sure it was the starter sol feeding back. So far still shuts off but i did notice this am it hesistated. Something is sticking in the IP . This IP must have been laying around.
Click to expand...

Maybe and injector cleaner will free up whatever is sticking. If the metering valve is sticking it could just need to be pulled out and sanded.
 
A hot wire is shorting to the fuel shut off solenoid and I am willing to bet you that it aint coming from the ign switch.
Turn the key on but don't start the truck. Check for voltage and amperage at the fuel shut off solenoid.
Shut off ign key. Recheck volts and amps. Are they the same? Some take 9-11 or so amps to run that solenoid.

A possible
If they are the same then I would venture to guess there is a relay possibly powering from 30 to 86. 86 is supposed to shut off when the key shuts off.

Another possible. Live voltage is crossing into the solenoid circuit when ign is energized and stays that way. Track whatever live voltage circuit that remains powered when the ignition key is off.
 
Wire in a ‘test light’ on the fuel solenoid and leave it in. The lamp will ground out any low voltage: problem solved. It will also indicate if there is something keeping the circuit hot.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top