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Decent CHEAP laptop?

Our last 3 laptops have been DELL, and they have all left alot to be desired. The 1st one lost a hard drive and the monitor hinge pins got LOOSE! The 2nd one all the plastic broke and the hinge pins for the monitor broke, and the 3rd has done the same. We have just not been happy with the quality of the casings and hinge pins with DELL, so I decided to go a different route this time.
 
Yer not supposed to use them as a hammer or anvil ;)
I have never broke hinge pin or lid on a puter yet... mine were/are all Dell.
I've lost a hard drive and mother board and effed up a key board(coffee spill) yes but never broke the casing.
 
bison said:
Yer not supposed to use them as a hammer or anvil ;)
I have never broke hinge pin or lid on a puter yet... mine were/are all Dell.
I've lost a hard drive and mother board and effed up a key board(coffee spill) yes but never broke the casing.
Click to expand...
I don't abuse them, just use them.
 
For good and cheap, I have a Toshiba running windows 7 that I bought in december of 2010 and its still going. I made sure to spec it with some higher level Intel guts. Hinge is still original.

My sister just got a HP Probook that seems to be a good laptop.

Everyone I know with a Dell seems to have hinge issues quite often.
 
New laptop arrived today, and so far so good. So far it is REALLY quick, and starts up nearly instantly. Haven't done to much with it as I don't want my oldest to get ahold of this one and break it for me.
 
Downloading some software now, and JEEZ is this thing quick compared to my old DELL. It processes the downloads so friggen quick it's ridiculous.
 
Now start using your Dell again, you just might throw it away! :D
 
Had some time to use this lenovo, and so far I am VERY impressed with it. I'm still figuring out some of the settings on it, but otherwise it is a solid machine. I'm streaming iheartradio right now along with running several webpages in a couple of tabs, and it isn't even breaking a sweat. The graphics in it are night and day better than my old DELL, and the DELL was a midline laptop, not an entry level. Battery life seems to be pretty solid in it, and even on battery with it in power saver mode it doesn't drag one bit. I know I read about quite a few having problems with this model with the base model processor, but with the A10, SSD, and 16GB of ram, it just flat out goes. I have only heard the fan come on it a couple of times, and that was because I was downloading programs while surfing the interweb, and playing videos all at the same time.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Anybody know of any decent CHEAP laptops out there? My son decided to finish mine off for me this morning after I had just fixed the hinge pins in it yesterday. So I'm reduced to using my phone, and to say it is lacking would be an understatement. With a newborn I'm on a tight budget, really need a laptop for my tuning, so money IS an obstacle right now. I've been getting dells, but really not happy with the cheap plastic the last 2 were built of and looking for something a bit more robust.
Click to expand...
Hi Ferma: I'm a little more experienced with this topic than I am with ICMs. lol
I replace my machines every time Microsoft switches OSs on me, but I have long-since stopped buying new stuff. I now get refurbished units from either New Egg or Tiger Direct. I have never had a bad experience. Newegg seams to have nicer stuff (they're all off-lease) but maybe it's just been my luck. I too buy Windows 7 machines with huge HDs and a decent processor and I never pay more than $150. They all come with a 1 year warranty.

I use desktops but I do have a nice 15" laptop (but I bought that one new for about $600) which I hardly ever use. They sell refurbished laptops too. http://bit.ly/2nw9ClL

I trade stocks now that I'm retired, from down here in my cellar! lol028.JPG
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Anybody know of any decent CHEAP laptops out there? My son decided to finish mine off for me this morning after I had just fixed the hinge pins in it yesterday. So I'm reduced to using my phone, and to say it is lacking would be an understatement. With a newborn I'm on a tight budget, really need a laptop for my tuning, so money IS an obstacle right now. I've been getting dells, but really not happy with the cheap plastic the last 2 were built of and looking for something a bit more robust.
Click to expand...
WOW! I gotta start lookin' at the dates on these posts! lol
 
That's ok OBE, we know you just wanted to show off your tech room. Just teasing- dont hack me and steal my $16 from my bank account;)
 
I have another request: My 97 Sierra Z71 Vortec 5.7L has some "code" issues. I bought a Cen-Tech 98614 OBDII / EOBD code reader at Harbor Freight and if I follow the instructions I can walk it through the reading of the codes. Trouble is...I don't know what they mean! lol

This truck has run perfectly for the two years I've had it but this Winter it began running rough on cold mornings. After it warms up to operating temp it's fine-as-usual. I read the codes and they are as follows:
P0172 (System too rich Bank 1) ...
P0300 (Random / Multiple cylinder misfire detected) ...
P0337 (Crankshaft position sensor A circuit Low) ...
P1345 ... Crankshaft position CKP Camshaft position CMP correlation.

Can anyone offer some guidance? I will move this to the correct forum if someone will direct me.
 
I know, right!?! I am not much for computers but that is just too cool lookin!

Well I can see the chain of events for the codes:
The 2 crankshaft codes are hinting to the issue i think. Then too much fuel dumping because of it causing the rich code and that causes the random misfires.

The cam and crank timing are reading too far apart. You need a scanner that can read the cam (cmp). It should be from -02 to +02. Anything out of that range and you need to figure out why it is out of time.
If this were an older non electronic small block you would just move the distributor to change the timing.

Was any work done on it back then when the issue started? Real high miles where the timing chain could have stretched?

I'm going from memory- and I don't remember what I ate for breakfast so, anyone else remember what else to check here, speak up...

It (problem) started in the cold... something to do with enfiching fuel via temperature- but I would think other codes would be present also...
 
Thanx, Will...I haven't had to do anything to it other than the trans which went on me and had to be rebuilt. Also had the worn brake line which I replaced. I had been talking about the way it seems to "use" coolant. I ran it real hot one time 'cause I was on the interstate and wasn't watching the temp gauge. It "seemed" to have come back from that, though.

I carry extra coolant with me and I watch the reservoir which calls for a drink every few weeks. I suspected the intake manifold gaskets allowing it to burn coolant since it never has any spot, on the ground, under it. Then one day I left it running while I ran into a place and when I came out I noticed dripping from the area at the back of the motor. It doesn't do it all the time, though, but it's getting rid of coolant from somewhere. I don't have a lift so I have trouble looking for the leak. I'm also 72-years-old, fat, and not very flexible anymore.

I went onto OBD-II Trouble Code dot com and got printouts of the codes. P0172, P0300, P0337, P1345. In those explanations they allude to oil or coolant getting onto the sensors as a possible cause. The truck began to run rough on early morning cold weather starts but when it warms-up it runs as good as ever. This truck had about 70k on the odometer when I got it and it's in the 90s now and the engine compartment looks like a new vehicle, so I doubt if engine wear could be the cause.
 
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