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Dead Burb...

If the truck doesnt shut off then you have a engine shutoff solenoid issue, thats the only thing that makes mechanical IP stop going. Its redundant on the electronic IPs. I have had two bad Engine/Fuel Shut off solenoids. One of them intermittent that would cause stalling and allow it to restart.

air bubbles, air in fuel would cause all sorts of crappy running. rusted lines by the tank, or a filter not properly seated are common causes.
 
I don't think it's filter cause the LP is mounted about the same spot as on a 6.5TD so the filter is pressurized and leaks would be evident. If it's sucking air it has to be pre LP.. I'm gonna run a line from the LP to a 5 gal can.
Buddy,
I swapped the eso with another IP I know shut off fine. Same thing. I'm told it could be the metering valve. With the clear tubing pre filter shold I see any bubbles or none at all ? At idle there is none but if I run WOT I see intermittent ones.
 
does it still have the tank at the back? another thought about the not shutting off/sputtering/stray voltage issue. did you check the the switch at the bottom of the colum? I wonder if it's either loose or worn down and starting to beak contact.
 
Is the tilt wheel tight,if not they can get pretty screwed up inside. When you had the pump cover off did you check the metering valve,to see if it sticks ?
 
I may have found another possibility for the stray voltage. unplug the glow plug controller and see if it's still there. they share the same power lead. I was thinking if it's going out if it's feeding power through it from the glow plug power supply. the red wire from the alt. given the short glow time and the mystery power it might be the cause.
 
That's the problem. I am not getting any power to the IP when the truck is still running but yet if I unplug the wire it shut's off, and yes my test light is good and properly grounded. I also checked it with a volt meter and read 7/10th of a volt but that could be a fluke on a digital meter. Also , yes tank in rear. I'm gonna try running the truck out of a bucket of fuel. I am not sure if the air bubbles I'm saeeing are normal or it's sucking air. I'm gonna try to video and post.
 
well it just goes to show that when working on these engines or any diesel some things that SHOULD be in your tool box is:
A roll of clear tubing
A temp elec LP
a 5 gal can with fuel.
Well, I was ready to rip the IP out and I decided let me go through all the motions cause those air bubbles in the fuel were really bothering me. As always nothing can ever be simple for me. Always has to be something no one has seen or more complicated that it should be. The IP has a sticking vavle which is causing the shut off but the no start running bad is sucking air somewhere in the fuel system which I strongly suspect is in the tank. F'in truck is possesed. I think it wants me to pull the tank so now I can't in good conscience not fix the frame cause it would be easy to do with the tank out. I sight glassed it and it had consistent air bubbles. So I swiped the LP off another truck filled a 5 gal can with fuel and ran clear tubing from the can to the temp LP and then from temp LP to FF housing. No bubbles. Had to crack the lines but once bled it roared to life and ran fine. ran it for 20 mins off the 5 gal can both idling and revving it up. Not one bubble in the fuel. Guess the tank is coming out. Gotta price straps tommorow.
Also for the diesel uninformed wh may someday read this,
Air in the fuel is BAD. it will cause the motor to sound horrible like it's coming apart.
 
The straps shouldnt be too expensive. We have faith that you'll get the burb running good, you seem to be like me in the aspect that you get aggravated real easy when it comes to truck problems. Ive sworn so many times that I would sell the yukon but instead keep money into it. LOL thats what i get for buying it for $800.:D
 
Stealer=50$ per strap and possibly discountinued.
LMC Truck 29$ for the set. Guess the burb will be back burnered till they get here from LMC.
 
I wonder if you don't have a leak as so but a weeping line. my old burb did that trip right at the top of the steel line. right where it came out of the tank.
 
could be. I'm gonna test the line before I pull the tank, but I know "Christine" It want's it's frame fixed. The tank will have to come out. I'd bet the farm. I just bought a roll of Russel 3/8 aluminum Fuel line to make a new line from the LP to the tank.
 
Well, The frame is junk. I started to fix it with the tank out and then I looked further up over the axle..:suicide:
So The tank is going back in tommorow and the frame is what it is. Too much to repair and pointless. I'll drive it till it falls in half. It's not that bad and will probably be fine for normal driving but towing is no longer in it's future.
 

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I need a tetnus shot just looking at it, man I don't miss the n/east. Kenny if you need any rust free parts let me know and I'll try and track them down for you. I go to western PA twice a year to visit the inlaws and would be willing to haul parts your way .


Just offering/maybe hook a brother up. Heck I could even bring you a rust free burb or truck with blown motor cheap. { I shouldn't offer to help your addiction but I hate to see people suffer]
 
Yeah, I'm on the fence. Doing a full frame swap is ALOT of work. It doesn't seem like it but it is. And at that point do I want another burb or swap everything into a Jimmy/Blazer instaed. The frame on tha Jimmy I have looks pretty rusty but I don;'t think there is any rot and the Tub is actually in better shape minus the floors. For now I need a beater to leave at the truck yard when I bring the Oiltruck home so this thing fits the bill. I'm not wasting anymore effort on the frame. I decided not to put the lift in either. Might as well save if for what ever I build next. The burb has a mint driveline so I have time to find the right transplant truck. It's funny though...This is the 4th Burb of this vintage I have owned and everyone was a troublesome POS. I guess I wasn't meant to have a Burb...
 
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