DB2 FTB now not starting

[FatFut]

Hey guts I just finished doing the DB2 version of the FTB mod and now I have a no start issue. I upgraded to Leroy's FRB5-1 LP. I have run the pump on a jumper to purge the air. The batteries are up and it spins good, it just wont light. It was running directly before doing this and even on the new LP. Any ideas?

 

[ak diesel driver]

Try bleeding it right at the IP. Then crack some injectors to get fuel flowing

 

[FatFut]

I cracked the lines at thew IP and got nothing. Got fuel at the inlet.

 

[ak diesel driver]

I'd be checking the fuel shut off solenoid or the pmd then

 

[JMJNet]

I'd be checking the fuel shut off solenoid or the pmd then

If this is DB2, NO PMD.

Not sure what to tell you, though.

Other than, you may need to crank a little bit longer, and make sure the LP is on (need to put 12V direct) while doing this. This way all the air is purged out.
Sometimes, taking out one of the GP and keep cranking till there is diesel fume coming out, then put it back on and continue cranking.

Make sure batteries are in tip top shape.

 

[ak diesel driver]

oops

 

[jrsavoie]

I'm not sure if a plugged return line would cause an issue with a DB2.

I had problems a few times with the Fuel shut off solenoid wiring on my 89. Make sure the solenoid is opening.

 

[Chevypoor]

Sounds like air if it was running before. No fuel at the injector is further indication of air. First, if you have not already done this, use a piece of wire in the fuel pump fuse to jump the lp. Run lp and bleed the ffm. X2 on removing all the glows and spin her over until fuel spits from the glows. You can leave the lp jumped for this as well as it will not run without oil pressure and it will help purge the air.

 

[Chevypoor]

Sorry, missed you had jumped and purged her. Try leaving her jumped while cranking.

 

[Will L.]

Remove the fuel shut off solenoid and try it.

How exactly did you perform the ftb on the IP inlet itself? possible air intrusion there.

Do you have a clear line on the ip return outlet? Are you getting fuel out the return?

 

[WarWagon]

Remove the fuel shut off solenoid and try it.

How exactly did you perform the ftb on the IP inlet itself? possible air intrusion there.

Do you have a clear line on the ip return outlet? Are you getting fuel out the return?

Solenoid removal... This would cause a the mechanical DB2 to stay running...

Other questions are valid.

I would make sure the pink wire has +12v and it's on the proper terminal. Many have confused the cold advance wire and the cold advance shuts off the engine at 140 degrees or doesn't work at all. (Not like I haven't reversed plugs myself before...)

 

[Will L.]

a defective shut off solenoid can also keep it from running by being stuck in the off position.

 

[WarWagon]

a defective shut off solenoid can also keep it from running by being stuck in the off position.

+12v from battery and listen for the click would be easier to test it. Also listen for click after pump adjustments to make sure you didn't assemble it wrong and locked the rack wide open for a run away condition.

 

[Will L.]

The problem with "click" is you can have the solenoid click, but the plunger itself scores on the guide and it hangs up. The solenoid part is still good and moving, just not enough. I've only seen it once, but since then I remove for diagnosis when things start getting wonky. Yeah wonky its a word...idk if its a real word, but I use it. I usually pull an injector line all the way of injector and crank a bit to see if there is fuel flow before removing solenoid.

This is the biggest reason I advocate the clear line on return side. fuel flow/air = way fast diagnosis for more than 1 problem.

 

[FatFut]

All good ideas and a couple I have already tried. I will try the others and post my progress. Thanks guys.

 

[FatFut]

Ok just to clarify, I put a ford tail cone on the IP and did the FTB mods on the FMU. Nothing else was done to the IP. BUT now I have to wait for the new starter since the stock one gave up after a good fight. It was the original from 1993 after all. I will continue when the power master is in.

 

[FatFut]

Good News! FUT lives! That was a steep learning curve, so let me pass on what I learned the hard way. First off the Ford DB2 input cone does fit and it doesn't need to be drilled and taped. The ford regulator assembly is not the same and will not work on the GM DB2. Second be careful with the roll pin in the regulator assembly. If you get a bit aggressive while cleaning it, the pin may dislodge. Third be aware of the location of the pin as there are two possible locations it can go into. There are markings on the non machined side of the regulator. One is marked "C" and the other is marked "CC". These indicate clockwise rotation and counterclockwise rotation. Due to some very bad fuel contamination I ended up getting a DB2 from the local wrench a part. After installing the new to FUT IP, it still wouldn't start. I found the Stanadyne operation and instruction manual for the DB2 and within I found the explanation of the pin locations. After reading this I pulled the cone back out and switched the pin location. After reinstalling the cone and closing everything up and cranking a bit, it started.

 

[FatFut]

By the way mine likes the "CC" position. There is also supposed to be a way of decoding the data tag on the pump itself. I have a copy of the Stanadyne manual if anyone wants a copy let me know. I would put it up here but it's kinda big and I don't want to get scolded and sent to bed without dinner. I hope this helps somebody out there. I almost forgot the best part. The FUT runs great now. With Leroy's Walbro pump and the FTB complete and 1/2 turn on the pump this thing runs great. I also had to replace the starter in all this mess. I love this Powermaster starter! Now I too can say "My starter has more torque then your Honda. LOL

 

[NVW]

Congrats and good info.

 

[FatFut]

Hey NVW, is Leo astrological or occupational?