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DB2: Air bubbles only when cold advance is on?

Wow, so I don't feel like the only one who has this problem. I also installed a carter pump and I have the EXACT same start up as WarWagon. Mine is the original replacement. I'm stumped as well. I do live in the land of salt and dirt so I could see my lines being messed up. Seems though that the hard starts only got worse with the new pump, but it got cold so I've been on the fence if it was the old glow plugs I swapped out or sucking air from the pump. Maybe I sliced the o-rings on either side of the pump installing it? I'm just as lost as everyone here.
 
I believe to much LP pressure can play havoc with the advance on these DB pumps.
If they start better in below temp weather,mebby the IP is on its way out.
 
Just swapped the IP with another 6.2 IP. This IP would not go 1/2 turn as the fuel screw stopped just before that.

Starting the next day is a little quicker but not much improvement.

I am going to pull the driver's side injectors and have them tested. I don't know what else to try.
 
Is your cold advance working??
The cold advance swith(closed when cold) can be located on the pass side rear of head in line with the exh manifold or on the crossover plate.
 
Cold advance is ok. I feel it kick out in 2 blocks from a power change at the same throttle. Checked the single switch and verified the solenoids are good on all pumps... Actually there was a air bubble difference between cold advance on and off that has been corrected. The problem I am tracking down is excessive cranking after sitting overnight in cold/warm weather.

I will pull the #7 injector out. It had a carbon build up around the nozzle last time I had it tested with only 15K on it. (Posted on here with zero ideas long ago.) I did not look at it when I got the set back from testing/repair before I installed it on the engine to see if it had been cleaned. I did not feel good about about them and the above troubleshooting, while showing other issues that were fixed, has me down to an injector(s) leaking air.
 
Pulled injector and on a whim I checked the glow plug with the injector out. (Duraterms)
Got a red glow and then it went out - after glow did not get it glowing again.

Grabbed a spare controller. It got it red hot and kept it glowing through the after glow cycles. Pulled the old controller apart and the board had turned color in one corner with corrosion on some of the component leads. Somehow the old controller was short cycling the plugs. I hate it when things appear to work but are not working well enough anymore.

Hopefully this will eliminate the hard starting.
 
bison said:
Did it still cycle the glow light in the dash as normal?
Click to expand...

Yes, light worked but not "normal". Hard to tell that the light was on for too short of a time. I'll start it later today and see if the GP controller made the difference. Light on longer with the other GP controller.

EDIT:
Made the difference! Engine starts without all the contortions shown in the video although not hitting on all 8 it does start and stay running on it's own. It was also 53 degrees today and the burb had trouble as well without me waiting for the extended glow cycle to finish.

Confirmed failed glow plug controller - failure by not keeping the glow plugs on long enough.
 
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After two days it is back to it's old self. Starts good and starts hard.

Took an injector to a local stanadyne shop and it is sticking. They said it looks like it got hot and also they noted the bio going through it. The set out of the worn out engine I had also are not spraying right. They make great cores though... (And I can hear the difference, extra ticking, in the engine with one of the worn out injectors in it.)

So multiple problems and the biggest being a ruined injector set with ~30K on them.
 
Woody35 said:
what brand of injectors was it?
Click to expand...

Some unknown brand with cheap nozzles. Shop got them for $35.00 each. Not going to use anything but local rebuilt Stanadyne injectors from now on - worth the extra cost vs. starters and the other frustration I have gone through diagnosing them.
 
Walbro pump alternative...

Shame about those Walbro pumps being NLA. I used one of these pulse-er type pumps on my diesel Olds until I felt like changing the mechanical lift pump. summit racing part# PFS-10700 Same functionally as the Walbro except transistor switched not a set of contacts. The check valves in these work real well also BTW. ;)

Yes I own a 81 Olds Cutlass Diesel, a 350 diesel in a G body is rare, and yes it still runs. :thumbsup: 30 mpg when its right.
 
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The Walbro pumps, FRB5, have held out longer than any other lift pump I have tried. Esp with the bug problem I had in the fuel and the factory sent me replacement parts to rebuild the pumps for free after I ran a bunch of trash through them. The Carter pump mentioned here has been off the truck for a long time.
 
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