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Dash Removal Progress

Big T

Big T

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Location
Fullerton, CA
I got the dash tilted forward and off the pivot pin on the passenger side:


Having trouble getting it cleared of body bracket on the driver's side:


Got to this point after just under 2 hours work. I need to be able to force the steering wheel down further for it to clear the mounting bracket on the body and then lift off the pin. Any suggestions?

Or do I just have a go at dismantling the box containing the evaporator with the clearance I've created at this point?
 
Yes disconnect the pass side from the pivot pin and dash drops down to the floor almost, then you'll have enough room to work the core, I've did mine that way about a year ago, it's tight but I did not have to unhook/remove completely.

On top of the core air box, top center accessed from inside the cab shine a light to see that last bolt that is holding it together, IIRC there are 5-6 fasteners from the engine compt side and 2-3 from inside the cab, it won't come apart until you remove them all.
 
The whole 'evaporator box' has to come out. Heater hoses and both evaporator lines have to be disconnected or if mangled and hanging you up: cut em off.

While you are there check the wires to the blower motor. ~6" from the blower motor there is a connector that burns up on '95s. Replace the shorting out blower motor along with splicing the bad connector if this connector is burnt. You can do this later with just the glove box out.
 
Alright back at it after running an errand at lunch.

The evaporator box is detached and pulled in and down with the dash. It looks like I have to detach the blower mower and split the box to get at the evaporator. Is that correct?

There's 3 bolts from underneath plus 2 clips on the backside, even more on the front side, plus whatever are holding the blower to the box.
 
And finally, here's the evaporator removed from the truck:



Definitely had to replace this. I need to get some weather stripping cement to glue the foam seals onto the blower side and it looks like they used shoe goo for the screen on the other side. I'll tidy things up and install everything next weekend. On the box, most of the screws were gold, but two in the front were black. I'm hoping I remember where those went. The stock heater core looks very clean, so I'm going to send the new one I bought back to RockAuto.
 
Acesneights1 said:
Let this be a lesson to everyone else. I the nut won't come loose, don't change the dryer if you don't have too.
Click to expand...

Yeah, load it up with PB Blaster and take a torch to it. The bottom nut worked free just like it was designed to.

I hate the squeeze on clamps they used for the lines to the heater core. Screw type hose clamps will be going on.

I've got that orange DexCool antifreeze in it. The radiator looks brand spanking new.

Did I mention the alternator worked great before I took the dash apart?):h

After pondering this before I put it back together next weekend, the evaporator box and the dash probably go in real easy on the line with the seats and steering wheel out. Working on the box with the dash tilted down is a pita. The only redeeming part came when my wife was holding it up with her feet and I'd turn my head to exit......wondering which box I should be working on.
 
Last edited:
If you work on the one your thinking of first,,, She'll be glad to help you on your truck ANY time!!! :thumbsup:
 
I do know by discussion with PO and receipts that he replaced mixing door actuator and control head. Doubt if he replaced heater core as the original hose clamps were still on. The core I ordered from Rock Auto had pipes that moved slightly at their base. I was skeptical that it would hold pressurized coolant. It was from Spectra and made in China so I sent it along with the VOV that did not fit back to Rock Auto for a refund. The Evaporator was from Four Seasons and was made in USA.
 
Inspect your doors in the module, I have to take my module out because the mode door fell down inside causing air leakage thru the defroster allowing my windshield to fog on the outside during humid weather, I have rags on top of the dash to block the air flow.
Look at the rubber around the perimeter of the door, if its gummy or breaking off now is the time to replace it.
Those two doors on top is only available OEM, it is part of the case.
I have the new part already.
 
Update

Got it back together, but upon inspection the lip of the lower shell of the box was not meshing at the outer driver's side corner. No amount of jiggering could reseat it, so I had to pull it apart and pull the box off the firewall to reset it tomorrow. Once done should go together pretty fast. Wife made me quit as I was getting pissed and swearing a bit. Though I live on over an acre, she was worried that the neighbors might get concerned.):h
 
Big T said:
Got it back together, but upon inspection the lip of the lower shell of the box was not meshing at the outer driver's side corner. No amount of jiggering could reseat it, so I had to pull it apart and pull the box off the firewall to reset it tomorrow. Once done should go together pretty fast. Wife made me quit as I was getting pissed and swearing a bit. Though I live on over an acre, she was worried that the neighbors might get concerned.):h
Click to expand...
Ya sure... there was nothing wrong with it you just wanted the wife to hold it up with her feet again!):h):h):h
 
OK, almost there. Had to pull in apart again. Turns out the door above the heater core had slid off the pin in its actuator motor. This prevent me from getting the box "narrower" so that all the lips rode in their opposing slots. I came to the conclusion it was pointless working on the box :nono: while it was behind the dash, so the driver's seat and center console both came out to create more room. Out came the box and I put it together outside then wedged the pos back in. I'm now well down this learning curve and if anything in there f's up again, I can pull one from a boneyard. Everything behind the dash is put together. The heater core needs to go in but that can be done from underneath.



Now I just need to rock the dash back and put everything back in place. Yes the wife will help with the feet, but she took care of the rest this AM. Taking a bit of a break for some nourishment, but I do have a laser focus):h:

 
All back together.

Serviced the AC. Did the vac thing. Never did quite figure out how to use the gauges. Hooked up the high and low side, but had to disconnect the low side to fill it, so what's the point. Put in four 12 oz cans; the system takes 3 lbs 8 oz. So I need another partial can, maybe a full one. Low side showed 25 lbs on the can gauge (right at the low end of full); 23 lbs on the "precision" gauge. Dryer was cold and down at the orifice it had ice on it. Inside the truck it was blowing cold, both front and rear. Nice.

Next job is the HIDs. Waiting for Matuva to post up his fix for the pop out light housings. Mine are already installed. One pops out further than the other, but they throw off a much cleaner light than the old scaled up ones.
 
Big T said:
All back together.

Serviced the AC. Did the vac thing. Never did quite figure out how to use the gauges. Hooked up the high and low side, but had to disconnect the low side to fill it, so what's the point. Put in four 12 oz cans; the system takes 3 lbs 8 oz. So I need another partial can, maybe a full one. Low side showed 25 lbs on the can gauge (right at the low end of full); 23 lbs on the "precision" gauge. Dryer was cold and down at the orifice it had ice on it. Inside the truck it was blowing cold, both front and rear. Nice.

Next job is the HIDs. Waiting for Matuva to post up his fix for the pop out light housings. Mine are already installed. One pops out further than the other, but they throw off a much cleaner light than the old scaled up ones.
Click to expand...



What kind of gauges are you using? With the right "manifold" you should be ale to charge the system through it.
 
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