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Cummins conversion has begun....

Man that looks good.
How are the eletronics going to be with a 24v and Dodge trans/tcase?

Edit: I just realized there is a page two. I posted above after reading page one. Anyway looks like you are discovering the eletronics now. Mine was a 12v , no computer so I just swaped in GM sensors like you did.
 
Here it is guys help me out:confused013: Last night I tried to fire up my cummins conversion its a 2000 24 valve in a 1994 GMC, I primed the airdog and then cracked the #1 injector line until I got good fuel then I went to number two and got nothing and got nothing on 3,4, or 5. Then I cracked number six and it had good fuel flow, I kept bleeding the other injectors and I was working on number 3 and it all the sudden spurted fuel and the engine tried to fire, so I tightened it up and tried starting it and it fired right up, ran real smooth:shock: I was stoked so I let it run for about a minute so I could check for fuel leaks and then shut it off. I went to restart it again and had nothing, so I cracked the injector lines again and had good fuel at 1 and 6 and nothing at 2,3,4,and 5. So I spent the next four hours trying to get fuel to those injectors and never did, and the engine never tried to fire again. I tried it again this morning and same situation, any ideas????
 
I did a cummins swap on my 97 chevy, it has a dodge nv4500 and 241 transfer case You must use the dodge front half and the forks must be dodge,I had a horrible time trying to mix wrong parts,I tried several forks till I got the right one,the more dodge parts you use the better,mines all dodge exept the main shaft and rear case half,I think the tone ring should fit the dodge shaft also. I tried the chevy nv3500 first and ended up converting every thing to dodge any how,don't think the 4l80e would stand the torque of a cummins,suprisingly my c clip 14 bolt didn't break, its stronger than the nv4500,that broke several times.
 
Ok I got everything figured out; after some digging through old posts I found one just like my post and someone suggested resetting the APPS sensor, so I found a link that told how to do that and the truck fired right up!!! So now I got the motor all in and wired, got all the gauges figured out, and it runs!! Now on to the tranny and t-case. Should have more pics up soon.
 
Got the transmission in yesterday, hope to have the t case and drive lines done this week. I have all the factory gauges working so far(haven't got to do speedo yet till I get t case in) got the heater plumbed and working, plumbed the A/C, will have to charge it to see if it works though. I also got the power steering working and got the radiator hooked to the cummins. I also got my airdog all installed. I hope to be done soon, I will have pics up shortly.
 
Here are some new pics....):h
 

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I don't see a charge cooler yet...:eek:

It is a FEAT in itself just shoe-horning the big 12v in such a short engine compartment. Good job. :thumbsup:
 
It just not on yet, I am going to use one from a company called frozen boost. Its a water to air inter-cooler its like 90 percent more efficient than an air to air inter-cooler and its much smaller. I just have to set in in place and plumb all the piping.
 
It's been forever since an update, sorry guys! Anyway the transfer case and torsion cross member ended up being the biggest pain of the whole swap, after numerous attempts with no good results I ended up putting a 4" tough country lift on the truck so I could drop the torsions and cross member to clear the transfer case and that worked sweet, just wish I would of done it a month sooner! I had custom drive lines made about 8 inches shorter on the rear and 8 longer on the front. Now I am in the process of lowering the carrier bearing cross member so there is not such a steep angle to the rear diff. I have drove the truck about ten miles so far and it seems amazing, I have been driving it then doing a few things, then drive it and do some more. I should have the truck totally done in a couple weeks. I didn't update this thread as much as I should have, I have a ton more info about the swap, I'll try to get it on here or if anyone has questions or comments let me know. Oh ya and I'll have new pics soon!!!!
 
Ok here's the deal now that I am done and driving the truck I decide to hook up the speedo and 4x4 cause I had not done them yet. I some how managed to loose my front axle wiring harness in the project so I grabbed one from the junk yard and plugged it all in and no 4x4. So here is what I think happened, before the swap my 4x4 ALWAYS engaged super fast no waiting at all so I think at some point someone put the electric actuator in. So now I have the good actuator but I have just a regular wiring harness, so can and where do I get the right harness to make my actuator engage? And is there a way to tell for sure which actuator is in the truck?
 
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