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CUCV questions.

U

Ungoliant

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So I've been looking for a good off-road project, and I found a few of these former military CUCVs (Blazers and pickups) for sale, with the 6.2 Diesel..I have a few questions regarding these trucks. Also, kind of new to the whole off-roading thing.

1. I haven't found these trucks as options for any of the off-road suspension catalogs I've looked at online, what suspension/other parts are interchangeable from the civilian line of chevy trucks of the same generation?

2. What kind of issues are endemic to the 6.2 Diesel?

3. What sort of engine/drivetrain modification, if any should be done (other than your axles/driveshafts) for off-roading?

Obviously I'm a little new to this but I'm pretty interested, and I figured these vehicles would be a good choice for off-roading, I haven't heard anything bad about them, etc.
 
SS is a decent site but I think I can help you.
Same year K30 suspension parts will interchange no problem. IN the end , it's a K30.
6.2 is a good reliable engine. Not a ball of fire. CUCV's Starting system is 24v. Everything else is 12v in the truck. They are prone to numerous electrical problems. Alot of people toss the 24v start and convert to 12v. I probably will at some point.Blackout lights can cause alot of grief with the lighting system but are neat to play with.
Depending on which CUCV the are already probably one of the best factory euipeed off oad trucks. Almost all have Detriot lockers in the rear and some have them in the front diff(M1028 IIRC). Mine is a beast. Not many trucks can touch it for off road use. A Banks sidewinder turbo setup is the easiest way for some nice power. A 6.5 Turbo setup can be modified to fit as well. They are great trucks. I love mine. Best truck I ever bought. Don't pay too much and make sure the title is clear. It's a PIA to get a title if the truck comes straight from GL. I bought mine from a municaplity which it had no title but CT DMV accepted the paperwork from the municipality.
 
It's being sold by a dealer, I assume it has a title, but I'll find out more info soon.

1. How do I convert to 12v, and what is wrong with 24v start?

2. What are the blackout lights, exactly?
 
2. What are the blackout lights, exactly?
Click to expand...

Its a military lighting system which illuminates two very small spaces inside the parking lamps. Its designed so that using night vision goggles, they can be easily seen by troops on the ground. Other than that, they serve exactly no purpose at all. This is an early 80's design when night vision was primitive.

Today's night vision systems can see clear as day in pitch black.

I will find a decent CUCV myself. They are the most stout vehicles made in decades. You can drop them off a cliff and drive away with them. They dont get any stronger than that. Excellent choice for an off road project.
 
As far as the 24-12V conversion, I removed the 2nd alternator, put a 12V starter in and removed the BIG resistor on the firewall. Changed battery wiring to go in parallel instead of series. (I DO miss that stupid truck) I also added a Ford external solenoid on the starter circuit and eliminated the condition where the solenoid refuses to disengage burning up your starter. There is an excellent write up on this from a site that uses them for forestry service. File too large to attach so here's the link. They have some other nifty info on their site as well.

http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf
 
Ungoliant said:
2. What are the blackout lights, exactly?
Click to expand...

In addition to what Nick said you can also use them to kill every light in truck and I mean every light. That is the problem. If something shorts you lose everything. They are neat to play with though. If some a'hole is tailgating you during the day you can switch to blackout and it kills the brake lights as well.....:devil:
 
I'm going to do some homework on mine . What CUCV said is a "typical" approach to converting but I want to keep both alts but run 12v. I know it can be done because ambulances have duals. I think I need an isolator.
 
One advantage to keeping both alternators is I could never get a v- belt to fit properly. Either too short or too long to go over P.S. pump. Acesneights, did you have any specifc plans for the second alternator? I've seen a second go to another battery (like deep cycle) that runs accessories like winches, lights, whatever. That would be pretty cool. If anyone needs them, I have all the TM's in .pdf (including complete wiring diagrams) Just send a PM with an email and I'll shoot it your way.

--Paul
 
I have the TM's as well from SS. I'm not sure how I'm going to do it. I'm going to run the truck by the Auto electric rebuilder that does my heavy truck stuff and see what he thinks.
 
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