• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Crossover problems, tips?

I soaked them every day for a week with PB blaster and tapped on the manifold around the the bolts/studs after PB application with a small hammer. Bolts came out like butter.
 
Rhinopkc said:
I soaked them every day for a week with PB blaster and tapped on the manifold around the the bolts/studs after PB application with a small hammer. Bolts came out like butter.
Click to expand...

Do you guys use road salt out there? Your climate is so varied in AZ. I don't know whether you get snow where you are or not.
 
Guy IMO no exhaust bolt around here is coming out without being snapped, cut, or get lucky when its cherry red...

Oftentimes even attempting it before a torch and you risk stripping the head...
 
We don't have salt or anything, but I've worked on a lot of vehicles over the years, and have always found that it's easiest to start your attack at the manifold, so that if you do have a stud that's rusted to nothing in the center, you've already done your prep work at the point you're going to end up when it snaps. If you can get your hands on a set of stud remover sockets to have on standby, you can sometimes save the day when they snap in the middle. I've used a torch too, but it gets a bit sketchy under some vehicles, so I try to avoid it.
 
Some one claimed using industrial strenght peroxide as penertrating oil was the ticket to free rusted in bolts.

I never tried it though.
 
There was a member on here and on DP that swore on using candle wax.

Has anybody tried that?
 
The peroxide does'nt need the part to be heated up. Its claimed not to work if other penetrating oil has been tried prior to the peroxide.

bee's candle wax is claimed to work well,but it needs the part to be heated for it to work.I never tried that either.
 
I did mine last year and only 1 bolt broke. I thought all of them would break as they were rotten almost in half. It was more work removing the donut gaskets.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top