cross over hose barb to water pump ?

[chevyinlinesix]

So I take it from reading this thread, that you guys that used the brass fitting with no restriction hole have no problems with it? Just checking so when I put my engine back together I will know, probably going to use a stainless steel fitting though.

 

[NVW]

So I take it from reading this thread, that you guys that used the brass fitting with no restriction hole have no problems with it? Just checking so when I put my engine back together I will know, probably going to use a stainless steel fitting though.

When I changed mine the plumber wasn't open so all I could get was a cheap galvanized fitting from the hardware store. I have plans to replace it but haven't yet and have not had any problems.

Leo​

 

[chevyinlinesix]

NVW, thank you for the response and the input.

 

[NVW]

NVW, thank you for the response and the input.

No problemo, there may be a reason for the restriction but I don't know what it is.

 

[TurboTahoe]

No problemo, there may be a reason for the restriction but I don't know what it is.

I am guessing that the restriction is there because the heater controls are designed assuming a certain amount of hot coolant into the heat exchangers in the cab. The restriction limits the volume of hot coolant flowing into the heat exchangers. It is possible that removing the restriction may throw the accuracy of the heater controls off.

There may be other reasons, that that's the obvious one to me.

-Rob

 

[chevyinlinesix]

That's what I was thinking, but if I run into any problems, I will just thread the inside of the barb, insert a pipe plug, and drill out a proper sized hole. IF I have to that is.

 

[mitchedo]

I've been wondering about galvanic corrosion between two dis-similar metals. What is the factory fitting made out of? If it's magnesium or zinc, then the difference between it and the aluminum housing is small, and the fitting is the anode (the one that will corrode). Regular steel is the next least galvanic thing to aluminum, but that will make the housing the anode, so the fitting should be okay, but the housing will tend to sacrifice itself to the fitting instead of the other way around. Stainless steel (depending on the alloy) or brass are both further down the scale from regular steel, so would tend to accelerate the corrosion of the housing itself.

The good thing is the housing is quite large, so there are plenty of ions for it to shed before becoming a problem.

Anyone have a brass fitting in for a few years? How about steel? Has anyone noticed any deterioration of the crossover housing itself after dumping the factory fitting for a steel or brass one?

Of course, the better the coolant is maintained, the less electrolytic it should be, which may negate the problem entirely. I know that when I've seen old plumbing where galvanized steel pipe is fitted improperly to a brass fitting, it's the steel that gets the holes in it, which makes sense because the steel is the anode in that situation. That's with plain old culinary water. The galvanic charts I've seen are for sea water, and the fluid makes a difference in the potential, so maybe good coolant quality will negate the problem?

 

[JMJNet]

Removed the Tahoe's leaking quick connect yesterday. I just can't believe it. It's only 2 years old! Happily, it came out easily. I put in the replacement barb (with the orifice restriction) and everything was fine. I did have to gently bend the metal tube on the GM heater hose assembly to allow it to fit properly. Highly recommended to those with a weeping quick connect to get rid of it and put in the barb and a chunk of heater hose to connect it. No leaks, and probably will never leak.

-Rob

I remember when you changed it last time since I learned it from you at the other forum.