• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

cross over hose barb to water pump ?

S

schiker

Well-Known Member
Messages
3,109
Reaction score
2,043
Location
Pendleton, SC
Uhhhgg dang it. %$#*@%$!!!! that ding dang heater hose quick disconnect fitting.

Well, it defeated me. I bought one of the tools you hammer into the broken fitting like a straight easy out. It did not work I did not hammer in far enough. So then I tried Robyn's trick and cut it 2 plcs with a dremel then hammered the tool back in and proceeded to strip it out and generally boogered it up. Must not have cut deep enough or my fitting was just that corroded into the aluminum.

It broke off just touching it trying to unhook the plastic keepers for the metal hose end. It was pitted in the break and generally corroded in half. Man that stuff is some crappy metal. Probably find out later it will cause cancer.

So I am admitting defeat and ordering a new cross over.

Will the NPT fitting to hose adapter for the water pump hose the one that goes down besides the oil fill spout come with the new cross over? Or is that extra?

I might try and take that out of the old one before tossing it but right now I am going to enjoy a beverage before looking at that ding dang thing again.
 
I think that I would try to just JB Weld in the correct (NPT/barbed) fitting. If it still leaks, then order a new crossover.

Of course, I'm laid off & extremely cheap too.
 
As a PITA as it is to take off the crossover. I don't want to do it again if it leaks so a new one is going on. I wasted the better part of a Saturday on it and it was really nice here today.

And a quality steel quick disconnect is going back on since the metal hose end looks good. Anyone puts on another one of those pot metal? powdered metal? fittings is crazy. Going aftermarket for this item Napa part not GM who is too cheap and poor quality for these type of things.
 
You should be able to chip it out with a chisel, get as close to the threads as possible then run a thread chaser through it. That's what I had to do. Leo
 
Before you plonk down your cash for a new crossover, head over to Peninsular and check out their parts section. Give 'em a call on Monday and see how much they want for their crossover takeoffs.

I've been mentioning this a lot. No, I don't work for them. I've purchased a few of their takeoffs and have been very pleased with them. ...and the prices.

I bought a steel fitting with the restrictor and hose-clamp hose attachment for an old 83-ish 6.2 at NAPA. The restrictor looks to be the same size. Hopefully it'll be better than that stupid POS OEM connection.
 
Don't know what you guys use for coolant, i never seen a rotted or pitted quik disconnect yet, leaking o rings yes, plenty of them. never had no trouble getting the fittings out either.
GM should have made them from brass, i dont like that pot metal either.
 
GM part #15963984

NAPA part #730-4943

Both have steel ones, much better than the aluminum POS that came from the factory.

Cost is about $12. I like the GM one, as it has a fluid restrictor orfice in it to control coolant flow to the heater core.

You'll also need the tool for opening the tabs... Lisle LIS62200 - $5. You can do it without the tool, but... they make it for a reason. You'll see.
 
bison said:
Don't know what you guys use for coolant, i never seen a rotted or pitted quik disconnect yet, leaking o rings yes, plenty of them. never had no trouble getting the fittings out either.
GM should have made them from brass, i dont like that pot metal either.
Click to expand...

I have the orange stuff in my truck. I've never seen such pristine cooling passages, and I've been working on my own (and a few others') since 1976. I don't know how old my crossover fitting is, but it is pristine and solid. It is getting replaced with one I can clamp a hose onto.

I've toyed with the idea of changing to green stuff, especially now that there's no trace of the orange in the block or heads, but I think I'm staying with the Dex Cool, based on my personal observations of what I've seen in the cooling passages.

I know I have to keep the level up, and mix only with distilled water or I'll get sludge. I recently checked the system in my sister's POS old Windstar with Ford's version of extended life stuff. It's been low on water for who knows how long, and it is full of sludge.

The NAPA "heater fitting", as it's called, has a NAPA number of 6601700 (or 660-1700). It has a restriction the same size (by eyeball) as the stupid OEM fitting. It fits a 5/8 hose, is made of plated steel (brass would be wonderful). It costs $5.99 at NAPA. I looked up a "heater fitting" for a 1983 GMC K3500 6.5. I wanted to be done with the whole stupid quick disconnect fitting. They are a disgrace!

395222.jpg
 
I would go to a plumbing supply house and see if you couldn't have a plumber thread the buggerd up hole larger and put a downsize brass bushing in it to make it fit the stock fitting again. Possible it would save you a few bucks. Just an idea.
 
JiFaire said:
GM part #15963984

NAPA part #730-4943

Both have steel ones, much better than the aluminum POS that came from the factory.

Cost is about $12. I like the GM one, as it has a fluid restrictor orfice in it to control coolant flow to the heater core.
Click to expand...

How important is the restrictor? Potential overheat stuff, or just nice to have?
 
I simply changed mine out for a regular brass one cause I never knew it had a restriction orifice int the stock one.I haven't noticed any change in heater performance or engine cooling or overheating. Maybe I'm just lucky or something but it works fine here.:dunno:
 
Bullseye240 said:
I simply changed mine out for a regular brass one cause I never knew it had a restriction orifice int the stock one.I haven't noticed any change in heater performance or engine cooling or overheating. Maybe I'm just lucky or something but it works fine here.:dunno:
Click to expand...

Nope not lucky, I did the same thing after I had to cut mine out in two pieces. the steel piece fought to the end, didn't want to come out. :eek:

Brass replacement much nicer, I didn't know about the restriction the factory piece either. :rolleyes5:
 
An easy method, OK a method of removing a broken pipe nipple or hose barb it to use a a 5/16" punch ground on an angle. You put the round side of the punch toward the thread and collapse the nipple or barb into itself. Work your way around the nipple. This has never failed me. Some have been in for 50+ years on old laundry equipment I have moved over the years. Usually you don't even have to chase the threads.
 
steelydan said:
An easy method, OK a method of removing a broken pipe nipple or hose barb it to use a a 5/16" punch ground on an angle. You put the round side of the punch toward the thread and collapse the nipple or barb into itself. Work your way around the nipple. This has never failed me. Some have been in for 50+ years on old laundry equipment I have moved over the years. Usually you don't even have to chase the threads.
Click to expand...

I've used that method before but it didn't work on the pot metal crap these are made of. They just chip out. Leo
 
I hate those things. They are really a pain. I used a small chisel and a hammer. I did have to take out the upper intake to get enough room to work. Have put in a replacement quick connect, but already it is leaking. I have purchased the older fitting shown in this thread. I have already re-done the 'burb, and the Tahoe is next up. Good luck!

-Rob :)
 
How about a replacement hose assembly? I know you could replace from the bracket to the housing with standard line but isn't the line from heater core to bracket some special high temp hose because it runs so close to the downpipe.
 
packratt said:
How about a replacement hose assembly? I know you could replace from the bracket to the housing with standard line but isn't the line from heater core to bracket some special high temp hose because it runs so close to the downpipe.
Click to expand...

I used regular heater hose and routed it carefully and haven't had any problems yet.
 
Removed the Tahoe's leaking quick connect yesterday. I just can't believe it. It's only 2 years old! Happily, it came out easily. I put in the replacement barb (with the orifice restriction) and everything was fine. I did have to gently bend the metal tube on the GM heater hose assembly to allow it to fit properly. Highly recommended to those with a weeping quick connect to get rid of it and put in the barb and a chunk of heater hose to connect it. No leaks, and probably will never leak.

-Rob :)
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top