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Cranking torsion bars (how bad of an idea is this?)

R

Ratchetnator

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Banner Elk, NC
I would like to bring the front of my truck up an inch or two. I understand that I will have to have it realigned after cranking it. But other than that, what problems am I going to run into? I know at least a few of you have tried this. Ideally I would like to get 2 inches out of it.
 
Everybody tells you how you're gonna ruin all the front end parts and the CV joints won't last and then THEY crank theirs without telling you... I don't think you'll get 2" but 1 1/2 could be possible. Just make sure you soak the adjusters for a couple of days first and have the truck front suspension unloaded when adjusting. Make sure it's even side to side F&R when done. Get it aligned right afterward.
 
My front end on my Dmax is turned up and it has worn parts out extra fast BUT I'm also pretty hard on the truck.

My 95 is turned up 5 turns and it gave 2" (results may vary) but it set my truck to a stock stance after I put Dmax 3500 leafs in the rear.
 
tanman_2006 said:
My front end on my Dmax is turned up and it has worn parts out extra fast BUT I'm also pretty hard on the truck.

My 95 is turned up 5 turns and it gave 2" (results may vary) but it set my truck to a stock stance after I put Dmax 3500 leafs in the rear.
Click to expand...

Where were you able to find the leafs? Scrap yard?
 
its gonna look silly while towing!

mine is stock but drops the ass enough loaded I am considering de-cranking the t-bars to compensate, but that will require an alignment, so stock she stays!
 
very true tanman. I might go with Roadmaster active suspension. I like the slightly smoother ride of the 2500, but would like a little more with the goose on. but we dont go past 26K combination, so I dont need a huge pack.

did the GMT800 springs fit the GMT400 ok? maybe GMT800 springs a a bit more tuned than GMT400, so maybe a set of 3500SRW springs might be OK for me. did they have overload leaves that needed a bracket added?
 
The leaves were about 1/2" longer than gmt400 which is pretty much nothing when you consider that my springs were toast and these had 60k of unloaded miles. I took the helpers off and plan to install them on one of my 3500's. The gmt 800 3500 springs ride smoother that the gmt400 1500 springs actually, either that or I like a firm riding rig.

It was a direct/bolt in upgrade.

My 06 2500 springs were not stout enough for the loads it carry (should have gotten a bigger rig)
 
I have had my truck for nine years and never did anything to the suspension. Recently I installed new shocks because the ride was REALLY hard. Speed bumps and dips, it just sounds like metal to metal contact. Like driving a forklift around.While putting the shocks on I put the truck on stands, removed the tire and installed the bottom of the shocks first and then the top bolt hole of the shocks were too short. I had to use the floor jack on the A-arm to lift the shocks up enough to line up with the hole. While doing this the truck started lifting off of the stands and the A arm wasnt even up against the rubber stopper. I notice that most of the 94 era trucks have a lower front end then the rear but mine is level all the way across. I am pretty sure that the torsion bars are cranked on mine. I like the level look but the ride is just not worth it. I am going to put them back and get an alignment and was told of a shackle kit for the rear that will bring it down to match the front instead of raising the front to match the rear.
 
on my old 93 i changed my torsion keys to the re-indexed ones and then cranked them hard and got 3in. and i added an add-a-leaf in the rear to make it even. truck sat nice but it was a ruff rider. didnt bother me to much makes you remember you are driving a truck not a sedan! any way right after i did the lift i changed all the front end parts with moog parts (so i spent a little change), within a year the ball joints where shot again.
 
Here is the picture of my truck. Pretty level all the way across but rides hard as hell. Anyone able to tell me how to get this picture as my profile pic. Couldnt find how to set pic under customize my profile
 
chevyCowboy said:
on my old 93 i changed my torsion keys to the re-indexed ones and then cranked them hard and got 3in. and i added an add-a-leaf in the rear to make it even. truck sat nice but it was a ruff rider. didnt bother me to much makes you remember you are driving a truck not a sedan! any way right after i did the lift i changed all the front end parts with moog parts (so i spent a little change), within a year the ball joints where shot again.
Click to expand...

You fit the definition of over cranked! Lol I did that to my old 03 K2500 6.0 and couldn't keep a front end on that truck, on my Dmax I won't go more than full cranked stock keys and past that I will have to lift (real lift).

My 93 sits HIGH up front and still has 2" of bolt sticking out and the front looks level, it sits 3" higher than my k1500 up front but the big @$$ bed keeps it weighted down to level in the back.

My 94 is opposite way high in the back and 3" lower in the front than my 93. I don't know how they set these trucks from the factory but the specs seem all over the place on my rigs.
 
It does look a bit higher than my 3500.

Click on "Forum Actions" at the top of the page, click on Edit Profile, on the page that comes up click on Edit Avatar on the left of the page. Use Option 2 to load pics from your computer.
 
Cali6.5 said:
Am I asking too much to have a smooth ride empty but a heavy duty suspension for towing 15K+. If not what recipe is recommended?
Click to expand...

Huh, doesn't look tall at all.

Smooth riding trucks come in new expensive packages.

Lower the front down about 5 full turns and drive for a couple hundred miles to see if it's better, if you still need smoother turn down a few more. The CV shafts should be nearly level maybe just a touch lower on the wheel side.

Now you have to fight the upper leaves in the rear slapping while unloaded. Possibly remove the helpers and over loads then add air bags.
 
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