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Crank no start

Don't forget to wiggle the harness during testing, hard to do by yourself but, I had that problem. Poor crimp connection get me FITS for months. New PMD and Two pump installs later.
 
snarl95 said:
How long does it take to purge air from system after pump swap?
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When I had the pump removed from My truck, after bleeding the low pressure side, cracked fuel lines at all the injectors I could easily get to, then cranked for maybe a minute and fuel than began to pulse from the fittings, tightened the lines back up and it took right off. Missed for a little while but when the other injectors got fuel it smoothed right out.
After loosening the fittings at the injectors a couple of turns then tap the fuel pipes near the fittings to break the seal between the pipe flanges and the injectors. Other wise they might not let loose to allow air to escape.
 
I have always took out the 6 easiest glow plugs and unplugged the pmd and cranked over until a lot of fuel mist comes out the glow plug holes. It normally don’t take but a couple starter cycles to get mist. Doing it this way has always worked for me
 
I see this is a 95, any codes? On my 95 I used to get a code 13 which is the FSOS, the under hood fuse block for that fuse would lose contact. I had to bend the fuse spades to get a good connection.
 
if that wire/circut is messing up then the red wire to the fuel selenoid shouldn't be reading correctly either. Assuming the green wire isn't right then I'd check the circut at the PCM to verify it's correct coming out of the PCM
 
Ohm testing is the worst way to confirm wiring!! Only need one good strand of wire to pass. I use a head lamp bulb because it proves the wire can carry amperage. Its easy to check power and ground circuits. Other circuits I unplug both side of the harness and supply power and ground. The nice part is you can leave it on and wiggle the harness and look for it to drop out. After you confirm the wiring is good perform a pin drag test on the terminals.

Also you need to use a lab scope or set your meter in hertz or even VAC to check the square wave single to and from the PDM while cranking it. If your just looking at DCV you will misdiagnose it.
 
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I never assume just because it's new thats it's good. Ive have plenty of new parts bad right out of the box. I'd retest it and perform a pin drag test.

I'd put a head lamp bulb on the PDM power and ground to prove it can carry a load. Then you need to confirm a 5v square wave pattern from the PCM to the PDM on the green wire. There is also a square wave pattern from the PDM to the PCM on the small red wire. If that's good them check for a 12v square wave pattern from the PDM to the fuel solenoid. If you dont have the equipment to properly test that I'd recommend taking it to someone that does. Without the proper tools it's all guess work.
 
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